OliverSedlacek

Yes, if the engine is coming apart then definitely worth it. The reduced weight makes the engine rev more briskly and reduces frictional losses. This gives you free horsepower (I was sceptical but it was very apparent) and improved fuel consumption. That makes them really goo value for money.

Great piece of work!!! When building a Megajolt style converter I also wanted the ability to bench run the ignition but I went comparatively low tech. I mounted a crank trigger disk onto a DC motor and set up a suitable sensor on a mount. I wired up a pot in place of a TPS and away I went. I often thought about doing something more sophisticated but once I swapped the Megajolt for an OMEX there wasn't much fiddling to do and my motivation dwindled.

BTTT. As there's been no interest it's going on Ebay

I wouldn't get too hung up about HT contact resistance as there is typically several thousand ohms of suppressor resistance in the leads or plugs.

I'm part of the way there, having built a little PCB with four solid state high side 10A switches. It's dumb at the moment, but a lot smaller than four relays and fuses. As for multiplex comms, CAN is a bit of a challenge for maker/hobby stuff, so I'm looking at LIN instead. I'm happy to share more if people are interested.

Race cage for sale (ex academy racer, never crashed). £675 or best offer. BM me or call Ian on 0777-9112671.

Four minilite style 13 inch wheels (never fitted) finished in shadow chrome with unused Yokohama 21s. Stud pattern is Ford. £400. Contact Ian on 0777-9112671 or BM me.

I thought the ali bell housing was the same length as the iron one, and mine was certainly a straight swap.

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There seems to be a lot of fluff that you can ignore if you keep your eye on the essentials. All copper wire has pretty much the same resistance per meter for a given cross sectional area. That means you need to select your wire CSA either to limit the voltage drop or to limit the temperature rise. In a loom a lot of wires aren't chosen to be the smallest that will do the job, just like a lot of bolts are also standard threads rather than sized down to the minimum required. Insulation needs to have an appropriate temperature rating and good mechanical strength (voltage rating is rarely an issue). That's where the cross linked insulation really scores. If you really optimise a loom you can save quite a bit of weight, but it takes proper design. It's not that hard if you know what current each wire has to carry, and that can be quite hard.

I'm still convinced that heat from the gearbox is a significant contributor as changing from 4 speed to 5 speed box made the situation much worse. Insulating the tunnel seems to just bottle up the heat so the gearbox runs hotter and the heat gets out anyway. I'm upgrading my custom heater/cooler fans, and next time the gearbox comes out I'm going to try a fan in the tunnel exhausting the air out of the bottom of the tunnel.

Prop shaft bolts?

Drove all the way from Oxford to High Wycombe once with the handbrake on*redface*

I'd also suggest it's time plug in a laptop. I'd be happy to have a look if you're nearby.

Glad it's sorted

Another vote for an Eezibleed as a good value for money tool for a fluid change. As others have said, never let the reservoir level drop to the point of drawing air into the system as it may get trapped in the rear calipers, probably in the hand brake self adjuster. If you need to bleed a system from dry then having a vacuum system to suck rather than a pressure system to blow makes all the difference, but they aren't as readily available.

A sudden loss of power is unlikely to be the alternator as the battery will keep the engine running even when the alternator is playing up (and your voltage measurements suggest the battery is healthy). Problems when raining would suggest the HT should be looked at. The most likely problem though is a dodgy wire somewhere, and I'd start with the earth between the engine and the chassis.

My lithium battery is still going strong

Can confirm 180 ohms full down to zero when empty. You can't get the last 3 litres out though.

I put my oil filter under the steering rack mounting bracket.

I last bought my Mobil 1 a good few years ago. It was discounted so I stockpiled a good few cans. All modern quality oils are much better than anything that was available when the crossflow was designed, so I don't think you can go too far wrong. As for the lower pressure at idle of the 40 grade oil, the crossflow guru Roger King told me that the thinner oil was good as it flowed through the drillings in the block better.

I've always used Mobil One 10W40 in my crossflow. As it's dry sumped, I like the fact that it flows well at low temperatures, i.e just after start up.

Crikey Stephen, that's going to be a bit of a wrench!

I know that NGK B8s are the usual recommendation but I've always run the 'hotter' B7 grade without problems. They might overheat in track driving conditions, but you could always change to B8s for track and B7s for road.

Confirm as per Duckpit for Supersprint cam.