OliverSedlacek
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Everything posted by OliverSedlacek
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In my opinion the Kent 234 cam is perfect for a road going car. I upgraded to a Kent 244, and although there is more top end power, the fact that the power starts at 3500 rpm instead of 3000 rpm makes it just that bit less road friendly. The 244 is perfectly tractable, but the 234 is a bit more relaxed.
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I weighed the standard calipers at 3.5kg each with pads. I replaced them with Wilwood Billet Dynalites at 1.65kg each with pads.
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I found the 4 speed box very nice. I changed it to a BGH 5 speed box, which has decent ratios. Apart from the higher power handling, most of the changes weren't an improvement.
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Remember to do it with wide open throttle
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Old fuel gauge (non 7), how does it work?
OliverSedlacek replied to OliverSedlacek's topic in TechTalk
It's the original meter, and I tried it on a power supply. There must be something cunning in the design as the gauge doesn't move as you vary the supply between 12 an 14V. -
The sumps differ according to which car the engine was originally installed in as it has to clear stuff like chassis members and the steering rack. None of the original sumps are entirely satisfactory in a Seven, so most of them are 'cut and shut' so that you have enough ground clearance.
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I'm trying to get an 1955 vintage fuel gauge to read properly, but it's not obvious how it works. It looks like this, this and this. The terminal with the green wire goes to the sender, which is a variable resistor to chassis. Even when the sender is shorted out, the gauge still reads about 30%, when it should read empty. The green and blue wires just go into the meter. Does anyone know how this works?
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Cooling a 7 engine in high ambient temperatures?
OliverSedlacek replied to CageyH's topic in TechTalk
That doesn't sound too hot to me. I suggest leaving it alone. -
That's going to give you a pretty low ride height
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I fitted a Megajolt after I wanted the carbs tuned on the rolling road and the tuner said I didn't have enough advance on the standard dizzy. My Megajolt installation cost me less than a standard dizzy, let alone a re-curved one! The obvious advantage of a mapped ignition is optimum power at all revs, but the improved range on a tank of fuel is nice. I can comfortably get 180 miles on a 150 bhp XFlow.
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Highly recommended
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Calling Q102 or Se7en-Up; Magajolt & Tacho
OliverSedlacek replied to alextangent's topic in TechTalk
I've used the EDIS tacho output with no problems at all. I've never figured out why it's not considered the preferred option. Megajolt photos on webshots -
It looks a bit like the car is wide track, but fitted with dampers for standard track. IIRC the standard to wide track conversion includes an extension piece for the damper, which you don't appear to have. The coils on the spring also looks dangerously close to coil bound, so you should replace them with something more suitable.
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Two things affect the strength of the output of a VR sensor. The first is speed, so the AC voltage is proportional to RPM. What speed are you measuring the VR output at? Secondly, the gap between the VR sensor and the trigger wheel matters, and should be less than a couple of millimeters. There are some photos of my Megajolt setup here Finally, for some reason the EDIS is bothered about the polarity of the VR signal, so it's worth swapping the signals around.
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Is the starter motor a pre-engage or an inertia type? If it's pre-engage (and I assume from the descriptions that it isn't engaging whilst the engine is running), then it looks like a fault with the starter motor.
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From memory, there isn't a problem with springs flying out. I think you need some new lock washers though.
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In practice the difference between 75 amp hour and 80 amp hour is too small to matter. I've never had any joy resuscitating dead batteries, so I would suggest a new one. I've just had to replace the battery in my porker, and the new (non-Porsche) battery has a 680 amp cold cranking capacity while the old (factory Porsche) battery only had a 380 amp cold cranking capacity. The next job is to find out what *mad* circuit is draining the battery.
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If you are running a mapped engine (i.e. the ECU determines the load from a throttle pot, not from an air flow meter) then air leaks upstream of the throttle are irrelevant. If the airbox has an air flow sensor upstream then you need a gasket.
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The big stick rests on the lip of the boot and the small one tucks inside.
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Springs sag with age, but the spring rate doesn't change much. If the springs have sagged then it will affect the ride height, which influences the handling. As they are (relatively) cheap, I would suggest replacing them.
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Maybe. The stub axles are a taper fit, and if they are corroded they can be a right 8a5tard.
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I think you can safely assume that although you have a live axle car, it has had an upgrade from trunnions to ball joints at some point.
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Bike batteries work for me. I went into a bike dealer and he found a BMW K100 and a Ducatti battery would both fit. They are wet batteries, and seem pretty tolerant of abuse.
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The racks have changed over the years, so it depends on which one. The one I tried had a locking pin which had to be drifted out first. It's not easy!
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18 psi (cold) all round seems to work best, according to the pyrometer and the driver.
