Martin v

I'm still looking for a live axle FIA bar but must be for a left hand drive car or cross bar type if anyone has one. Will need to be shipped to the US though.

@Tazio @Wrightpayne Thanks guys. That's exactly the information I was looking for. I will hang on to the old MC though so may get it refurbed anyhow. Martin

Hi I need to replace an older style MC that has dual outlets for the front brakes - one brake line per side. I have the newer type MC with just one front outlet but is it typical to run just a single pipe to the front and split somewhere (where? Any pics please?) or use a T connector closer to the MC? Any advice and pics gratefully received. Thanks

Hi I need to replace an older style MC that has dual outlets for the front brakes - one brake line per side. I have the newer type MC with just one front outlet but is it typical to run just a single pipe to the front and split somewhere (where? Any pics please?) or use a T connector closer to the MC? Any advice and pics gratefully received. Thanks

1989 date is very late for a European Crossflow. A source says it may be a South African engine? The cast numbers oneness block may also provide some info. Here is a reference that may help. http://www.thekentlives.com/index.php/tech/engine/castingnumbers/

I have been trying without success to get hold of a new set of 6 point harness. Has to be 6 point FIA or SFI to comply with the US Time Trial and Hillclimb rules. I've been in contact with both Luke and Willans who are both in the process of re- homologation to meet the new 2016 standards so they are unable to provide any belts meeting either FIA or SFI standards. Both said they may be able to provide by May which is rather late. Other option I looked at is Schroth (at a price!). Any other options recommended in the Luke/Willans price range? Thanks

I have done this on both my wet sump cars. Need the angled fitting from Burton. There are two types so need to check. It’s a tight push fit You should also ensure the fuel pump blank has an oil deflector on the reverse to minimize oil splash to the vent. Other than that just a hose and catch tank with vent and good to go.

Bolt out easy, touched with a drill thinking I'd need to use an extractor and it moved. Managed to get out by hand amazingly which may explain why it snapped as it was pretty loose. I am replacing bolts with correct ARP's. Maybe overkill but no harm. Two Questions. 1. Loctite or not? If so which? 2. With steel posts would torque setting of 30 ft lbs seem right? thanks in advance.

No idea of the cause. Yes, four new and torqued correctly should do it.

.. and what is the rocker bolt spec please? Length I know and assuming Grade 8 but what thread? Thanks

No 1 post bolt snapped, luckily at walking speed. No other visible damage, ran ok but noisy at top end. Easily replaced but any idea why it may have snapped, anything else I need to check. It may have just worked loose through use as no obvious cause. Car has steel posts, regular tappets and steel shaft.

Apologies for the basic question, can someone tell me the thread and length of this please. Standard caliper banjo. http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=374 I need to source in the US. Thanks

Looking for a pair of dark grey (maybe were black once) headrests for the S-Type seats. Anything out there?

Posted before, missed a good set, but does anyone have a set of Caterham Grey/black standard headrests they are looking to part with. Thanks.

Red & Ali. Blatting around, no nav, looking for Gas... That was me...