millsn
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Everything posted by millsn
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I think it's only required if you plan on changing the angle lots. You should be able to adjust this on your car already but it takes longer
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get em from redline
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I've a standard pump in my 200 hp zetec and it's fine. You have to watch the spec of the injectors you are using with it. If the holes ion the injectors are to osmall they rewquire mopre pressure to run them. My old (beige) injectors needed the pump to run flat out, i.e. high pressure on the fuel regulator to achieve about 185 brake and the fuelling was verging on marginal. My new injectors from a VX220 turbo (I think they're blue) are hardly ever open and the fuel pressure is very low in comparison. What you're specifying is a fuel injector/pump combo. I don't believe my fuel pump will ever be a limiting factor as long as the car remains normally aspirated.
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Visit 7 tweeks for a comprehensive supply of such bulbs
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Check your anti roll bar settings versus the other car, it makes a huge difference once you're in a corner
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Any chance of an automatically self deleting thread if the thread itself has the word "tyres" anywhere within it? Maybe create an authorised version of the "what is my best tyre option" thread that repeats every week.
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that looks diddy. Is it as small as it looks?
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I'd call caterham. I'm fairly sure the sigma created a few challenges for them in that there is special ducting availalble for the radiator for starters. They can probably suggest a way forward. If this gives you no joy, have a look at some duratecs; they must suffer the same problem, and apply that treatment
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You'll need to replace it
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My car used to feel troubled at the front end whenevr you hit a bump mid corner. It's now the rear end that is troubled, not the front
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wear some gloves too, it's horrible stuff to get under your skin
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thumbnail in traffic jams - nothing better to do
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not at that price you won't.. sorry
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Raceline had a practically rear engined zetec. Last seen at MOG maybe? Might be worth asking them what they know abouth the move rearwards. Need I say "black brick"?
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I'd get it running then head straight for your most trusted rolling road. It's not worth driving it without a specific map for reasons of fun, fuel consumption, performance and engine safety. But that's my opinion, cue lots of others.. 2.0 Zetec
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Have you removed the engine bay diagonal? may free up some space
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"Are you Experienced ?" 1700 Crossflow Questions
millsn replied to hendrixswhitestrat's topic in TechTalk
Trying to summarise; If you have a rebuilt engine that someone's spent some time on machining right then I would say go for the thin stuff. If you've a basically standard bottom end stick with the thicker variety. -
I suppose you've confirmed that the discs run true in the pads e.g wheel bearings are ok and discs aren't warped? If the disc ran closer at one point in its revolution that might make it lock up? Also, that your tyres are in good condition and not distorted themselves?
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complete with injectors
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"Are you Experienced ?" 1700 Crossflow Questions
millsn replied to hendrixswhitestrat's topic in TechTalk
I used to use castrol magnatec (i.e semi synth), i think it was 10/40, a little harder to find than the 10/30 which is ubiquitous. The mobil 1s are generaly too thin and you wind up putting in as much as you burn because of it. -
boing 😳
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Make sure you're pulling in a straight line. You've got to get past the ring gear. Also, not sure if this appplies to a K - on a zetec or XF you've a sort of gasket that keeps all the crud out of the bellhousing and is fitted between engine and gearbox at the bottom. You'll probably need to remove this before it'll seperate as it sits the wrong side of the ring gear. (Assuming that applies to a K).
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Check your battery earth leads and your power leads. I've seen them almost fully corroded through just behind the insulation
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M1s also fitted to earlier cars, M0s fitted to 96 onwards. No doubt there are 96 on race cars that had stiffer springs and used M1s. Subjectively on bounce test the M1 feels more rigid but I found the M0s dealt far better with the road conditions
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I made a yoke by welding another parallel arm to my throttle arm and mounting an aluminium pivot between the two. The throttle cable is (was) then held by a grubscrew through the aluminium pivot block (it was roughly 10mm square and 1" long) and the whole aluminium block pivotted with the movement of the throttle cable as the arm went though its travel. Pdeal operation was much smoother, no subsequent failures. I no longer need the same setup so it got junked years ago or I'd post some pics.