millsn
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Everything posted by millsn
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Another good reason for not going. Is that the full circuit, big dB etc?
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Dont think I'll pass nopise at Bedford oulton's too far and I want Brands international then I get both tracks in one so to speak. Suppose I'm looking for Riockingham, donington or Cadwell really and I think maybe only Rockingham is on.
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See Redline about the plastic fasteners you can fit tto keep your body intact for those passing impacts too
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Your current bonnet hole will be fine, as will your air filter and backplate. I would suggest that if you live near emerald at all that's the ECU to go for. I have MBE and travel to London to get it mapped although NOrthampton is also a destination I could choose. I think the decision becomes more about who wil lmap it for you than about the ECU. Phil - I didn't suggets the scholar option was DTH (notice no colon inserted in the sentence). Jenvey used to do the DTH. I would add that scholar could probably advise on power/torque on the shorter manifold. Without trying it you just never know.
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The only way i copuld see to get them inside the bonnet would be to find some direct to head bodies which apparently used to be made. Scholar do a kit which looks shorter
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I also have one if you need it
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My guess is that the pads are rubbing on the lip that is probably there on the edge of the discs. file it off if they're ok for thickness
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I've got green ones from a VX220 fuel rail got them as new from ebay but not from this seller!
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Hyperion used to supply them if you wanted to pay more for a better solution. You might try calling them (in their latest guise whatever they're called now)
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You've got to get the mixture right first which is the four screws assuming all is fundamentally ok, then you adjust the balance on the middle screw which sets the two bodies relative to each other as two pairs. On carbs the mixture screws seems pretty immobile (a good thing) but the balance screw cna be pretty useless at holding position I imagine it's because the two bodies can flex on theor O rings relative to each other and do thus releasing the screw. Typically I was always tightening mine. My Jenveys on the other hand just don't go out of balance.
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Worth saying that loctite 243 is the oil resist version of 241/242 so may well be worth seeking out to help out XFs needing their balance screw fixing. For really heavy duty use 2701 (latest version of 270) but risk not getting it off again. Parts should nonetheless really be degreased beforehand.
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Looking for a trackday at cadwell/snetterton/brands (full)/rockingham/donington ideally. Needs to be between 31st Oct and the 8th Nov. I seem unable to navigate the trackday sites to find something useful
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Gary often does instructions for his kits. He may be able to email you some before you buy
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It's a huge field, you should advise volumes, material involved and likely machine type, is the product large/small/automotive/household in nature. Give us a clue?
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Probably a footnote now but I tend to find my alternators last about 4 years. Might be worth checking out as that'll kill your battery faster than most things. You'll be surprised to find how far you can run on just a battery alone and no charging at all.
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I know it seems a daft question but why don't you ask Freestyle?
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TBs might give you more power if you're on 40s at the moment. You could afford to go to 45s on TBs which would relesase a bit. Otherwise the swap won't give you any more power but driveability and fuel consumption would improve. I'm pretty sure Roger used to do greater than 155 options also. There are some people out there with 220 bhp XFs but they're just daftly (is that a word) tuned. Ps: I'd recommend the long ratio first sstyle boxes they do make a big difference. Generally most noticeable when pulling away though and when in fifth which gets usefully shorter. Edited by - millsn on 18 Aug 2009 20:43:44
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Ford do a gear oil from dealers with an LS suffix. Its what Road and Race recommended me to use for the same diff see my post in this thread Edited by - millsn on 11 Aug 2009 21:16:24
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Well my gauges buzz internally. Which is a pain. Other options are loose cables rattling on anything there.
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Edited by - millsn on 5 Aug 2009 22:11:57
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I must confess I really struggled with AH, giving up in the end and heading elsewhere. I then tried pro alloy and still have no quote. I'm beginning to think that the only way to garner interest is to dump the car in the factory vicinity and instruct them to make up something to fit. when you get some joy, I'd be interested to know from whom. Secondly, after spending most of the weekend looking at forge motorsports' site it seems that it isn't that hard to makeup specials from siliocon hoses. I just haven't found somewhere to ask to confirm this. Is anyone able to confirm? In fairness, pro alloy were very helpful on the phone. Edited by - millsn on 3 Aug 2009 19:39:39
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here A point I know is largely moot but interesting nonetheless is, Yoko A048s are rated to 130 mph (H rated) Avons Cr32s where Avons CR 500s are rated to 149mph (V rated) ZZRs are W rated (168 mph) Edited by - millsn on 1 Aug 2009 19:45:15
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I haven't been able to track anything down either, same problem, the pipercross one looks rather small too. Have you started with the exhaust? Mine's much quieter with a Raceco than it was before. I also run K&N plate type filters which I suspect helps the induction a bit over foam varieties.
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Reconsider your joint, are you able to use studs instead. You can then do up / undo the joint to your hearts content and corrosion is almost your ally
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Which engine?