paulyb

Anyone here have access to a wiring diagram for the immobiliser fob as above? I've one that hasn't been working for a while. Opened it up and one of the tiny capacitors has seperated from the board / broken. I'm happy to replace but obviously need to know the spec of said capacitor. TIA Paul

Thanks Johnty - in my case miss I'm was assuming though that if the starter isnt engaging I'd need the thinner mount so it is closer to the flywheel to start with?

Finally got around to replacing my sluggish starter with a new one from Brise. Having problems getting it to work though ☹️ Has anyone here fitted the Brise starter to a K series car? Caterham appear to have two starter motor spacers, one for Rover K series, the other for a Bosch starter 2003 onwards. Anyone know what the difference is? My car is a 2002 so I'm assuming I have the former, but when the starter spins it merely rubs against the front face of the flywheel rather than engaging the ring gear and turning the engine. I'm wondering whether I need to swap spacers as all else seems to be functioning correctly?

I'd be surprised if a dishwasher would get to all the waterways. Also be wary about the salt on an alloy head.

So, the earthing was fine. The starter came out - what a convenient and efficient little job that is - and opened it up. The braided connection for the starter had come loose, but there is a fair amount of corrosion on some of the internal components and it all looks somewhat tired. I'm wondering about sending it off to Brise for a re-furb verses just biting the bullet and buying a new one. This one has always struggled to turn over the engine and the Brise site is now showing a 2kW axial starter which looks like it might be more than man enough for the job, but 300 notes 😳 Any views on the present best choice for a new starter to fit and handle a high compression 1.9k (presently on 4-2-1 exhaust so hopefully not the clearance issues of the 4 into 1) Edited by - paulyb on 8 Apr 2010 16:31:01

Edited: Mis-interpreted Peter's question Edited by - paulyb on 30 Mar 2010 16:13:09

Thanks for the tip: I'll check the earth first and go from there

Roger: I'll probably dismantle at the weekend and see what happens. I have an image of the brushes pinging off all over the place and never going back into position once I open it up Dave: If I ever get cranking again I'll look at that though it was mapped last year by the two Steves so I'm assuming that is right Edited by - paulyb on 30 Mar 2010 12:09:53

I know therre are numerous threads on K-series starters, but mine doesn't seem to be the usual click / solenoid problems. I've got a 2002 SLR with a 1.9 scholar engine with rather high compression using the SLR 'race' starter (assume Brise?). For some time now the starter has been struggling to turn it over but generally eventually got the job done. I'd assumed my battery (PVR25) either wasn't up to the job or was on its way out, but trying an assortment of re-charging, checking voltage, swapping battery strategies has had no effect. Yesterday was MOT time and I couldn't start the car. Even the big battery which starts the diesel Disco couldn't make an impact! Turn ignition. All lights up on the dash as usual, fuel pump whirs. Turn key and I can here the relay clicking but absolutely nothing from the starter. Got a push start from a couple of my builders in exchange for a few donuts in the yard ( 😬 ) and got to the MOT (passed ) Same trying to leave there. I've run a fly lead directly from the battery to the solenoid. No difference. Tapping the starter with the key turned to the start position seems to illicit a few sparks from within but nothing else. Is the starter fried? Has anyone had any success getting them re-wound or am I better off biting the bullet and getting a new one? If so what is the present favoured option for a powerful 1.9 k?

Peter Did you follow the correct procedure for changing the battery in the fob? You are supposed to take the old battery out, then discharge the fob by holding one of the buttons down for five seconds, then inserting new battery.

EvoStick will generally soften sufficiently with heat (hairdryer) to peel / rub off. Or if you want to do it properly - here

Not seen Ferris Bueller?

Good choice - love that red and Cambridge Blue Maranello Concessionaires colour scheme FWIW Fran places the Wilwood 6 pots on the trailing edge just below the the 3 o'clock / 9 o'clock position on his RCR replicas. Not sure how his suspension set up differs from yours? Have you tried contacting Paul Skett? Edited by - paulyb on 14 Jan 2010 21:09:37

I thought it was only teenageers who actually splurged on Playboy mags 😳

That's good. Maybe the 6 months I was thinking was for a re-test