millsn
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Everything posted by millsn
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back on topic: unlikely
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or air is getting in somewhere, try wiggling the carbs to see if it makes a difference. Maybe your o rings are leaking air past
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Mine bust and was all the better for it. I've the supawide track and Gary tried to persuade me away from specifying the ARB in the first place. It didn't help handling that the thing never really fitted properly in the first place which was no doubt why it broke. I had hoped it would "lap" in.
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Check the locknuts on the top wishbone, they can come loose. Check the wheelbearing for play. Check the rack is ok, they can get damaged inside. Get a pal over to hold the wheel. Check the UJ at the bottom of the steering column for play. Check the wheel nuts are done up properly Last check the track rod ends for play
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What is the easiest way to drain the gearbox of oil?
millsn replied to Alexander Gurr's topic in TechTalk
I find pulling the engine/box assy out usually does a pretty good job (not forgetting that the box always holds a little bit back for when you put the engine/box back in over a clean garage floor). -
Quick update. Having now fitted the three shims the rack clears the oil filter. I think I was having a moment as I failed to tilt the rack enough to allow the steering column to clear the oil filter in the first place. I had mounted my horns to the lower xmember though so i had to butcher the shims somewhat to allow them to seat flat on the xmember. SO I now have steering and oil in the engine. Revelation! Hopefully onto the electronic speedo conversion tomorrow and then to the MOT station
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In fairness it is listed as out of stock
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www.baileymorris.co.uk/
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I had the same theory but it took ages to do out that way round. I'd now approach it by fitting the diff and prop first followed by the box. Contact for prop refurb is bailey morris. They're just off the a1m fairly near the black cat roundabout. It's near bedford can't recall the town name right now
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Long first was one of the best mods I made to mine. If you have the cash do it.
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Generally recommendation is 5W/30
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My standard post, try think auto in twickenham
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Have you checked the condition of your earth leads? Pal once had issues with his where the leads earthing the engine had corroded away. It isn't immediately obvious. On his the corrosion was immediately behind the startingpoint of the earth leads' insulation
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I reckon you could do up the hoseclip ad infinitum. I also suspect that any lack of sealing is down to the joint/flaring/diameter of the hose versus pipe and little to do with the ultimate torque on the fastener
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At my place of work we recently received a mandate to do up hose clips on silicon hoses to a given torque setting and then 1/2 an hour later to repeat the exercise ostensibly due to leaks in use. Now I find this difficult to understand. Can anyone advise whether silicon hoses are treated in some special fashion or whether someone somewhere in house is being a bit of a plank?
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I'm actually only trying to raise the height of the rack. What I couldn't figure out was the actual part required to do so, then I saw the caterham comment (3 required per car on the second part I list and ordered three). My rack is too low and won't clear my oil filter. I don't think I mentioned bump steer originally but I have been looking for that article which I recall reading
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I recall seeing about shim to raise the height of a steering rack and reduce bump steer. Anyone got any experience of this? I may need to raise the height of my rack, is this a standard Caterham part or do you make your own? Is this one? Or is it this? Edited by - millsn on 30 Dec 2011 17:21:55
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Lots of ally back there for a short in an accident and very near the fuel tank/pump/breather too, gives me the heeby jeebies thinking about it
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Two possible avenues 1) only requires an off switch, or 2) they never "sell" the car to you
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Jabbasport in Crowland near Peterborough here for remaps, but also do a turbo kit for more serious power Edited by - millsn on 20 Nov 2011 18:21:14
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you're supposed to lap them in to avoid that - which I didn't do hence the breakage. The chassis mounts don't seem to align very well which doesn't help
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I got the pushrod suspension with the ARB kit. Gary said I wouldn't need it but I didn't listen. My ARB broke principally due to my poor installtion and sure enough I haven't missed it at all
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bighead and terostat. The only issue being that I only used a single cable tie through each, I checked it once and one cable tie had failed so each big head now has two cable ties through it for redundancy
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think auto
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Seems to me that the recipe is to locate a peaky engine producing very little torque and superchage it to fix the problem. Along the way you get more power, simples. I would imagine a supercharged duratec would be fairly daft if they do 300 hp in n/a tune. I know a chap with a zetec engined KA which is giving me guilty thoughts. Pop a supercharger on that etc etc