NevDyson

Klunk, A picture would be useful , as I dont think I can shim the gearbox mounting without transferring the issue elsewhere, as I found out last night. If the gearbox mount is shimmed the Bell housing fouls the drivers footwell. My other thought was to cut the offending part of the hoop out and then add a flat section that will give the required clearance, this would give a good mounting point for an engine tray as well... I might look at a couple of shims for the Engine mounts, but I have next to no room as the Thermostat housing on the Raceline water rail is only a few mm from the bonnet when it is fitted now.

Hi Picked up a new Zetec from Raceline today and have mated it to a qaiffe cased type 9 with no problems. Engine went in with no apparant problems until I came to tighten down the gearbox mount. The gearbox case is in contact with the curved chasis bar that is on the older type chasis. See here & here, has anyone experienced this before? The only options I can see is to either shim the gearbox mount in the tunnel, or to shim the engine mounts which means I would not have to rmove the engine again, but will introduce the risk of the engine interfering with the Bonnet. Alternatively remove the curved tube, but I am not sure if it actually offers any structual integrity to the chasis. Any suggestions would be welcome, scratching my head bit on what to do next. Nev. Edited by - nevdyson on 28 Sep 2010 21:16:03

Thanks Guys

Just trying to get all the parts I can together for a week of being off work and in the Garage . Are the Gearbox mounting bolt threads on a Zetec Imperial or Metric? I remember Xflow and CVH engines being Imperial, but I cannot remeber for the life of me if the newer generation engines changed to Metric threads...... Thanks in advance for any guidance Edited by - nevdyson on 27 Sep 2010 13:18:42

Guy, I spoke to Chris at Raceline this morning and he is supplting a clutch with the lightened flywheel and the taller CRB for mating with the Type 9. So I pick up the Engine tomorrow, I will post the Clutch Type & No. if case anyone else want is. Nev.

Jonathon, I know the feeling of frustration, I have been waiting over 6 months. Chris has moved premises and his machinist has apparently been ill. Hopefully it will be worth the wait..... The clutch was not on the parts list supplied however....

After some advice from those that have converted to Zetec , Pick up new Raceline zetec (Blacktop) on Monday, what clutch kit should I be lookng at using? 200bhp using a type 9. Using car for road and the occasional track day if it sways the decision. Cheers Nev.

Andy Parts are these, come up on ebay all the time. I am fortunate in that my brother runs a maina so has a GRP shop that done the installation. But it would be quite straight forward to do it yourself as the LED strips have the led's raised up from the strip. I just added some convoluted tubing over the cables and a used a econoseal connector.

Bricol, I know the MOT may be an issue, I will cross that bridge when it arises, I have left an additional connector in the loom to be able to add the classic lamps. The integrated lights / indictors, i take it you mean like these Nev.

Pete, Check the wire from the alternator to the lamp. Disconnect both ends do a continuity cjheck on the wire, it will at least tell you if you have a damaged / broken cable between dash and altenator. Check as others have said that you have a feed to the lamp with the ignition on. The live feed goes to the alternator and the lamp illuminates as it can get to earth / negative when the alternator is not spinning, when the alternator is spinning it will not allow the feed to go to earth / negtive. You can also just put an earth from the alternator side of the lamp to earth / negative to ensure you are getting a feed to the lamp.

After putting the side repeaters in the light bowls, I deceided I wanted to dispense with the forward facing indicators as they were. My solution here & here & here Not everyones taste I am sure, but thought some others may be interested. Nev

You can remove the sump if you have a single piece spacer, it is not easy but you can get enough seperation by usnig blocks and then get adremmel or a hack saw blade in. I done it on the road side, lots of cursing, but managed it.

Dignity, It is easy to do, you need a couple of Piezo buzzers from Maplins. If you want to Blatmail me I can give you some guidance, or I could pop over and give you a hand. Nev.

Rob, Bruce at Arch would be a good starting point here Nev

POBC what is the smallest core diameter for the starter cable I could safely get away with? I was thinking thishere (second item down). Engine being 2.0 l zetec, powervamp PVR25 battery.