DohNut

Also bear in mind that the if the Laminova is positioned on the radiator top hose then this only gets hot when the thermostat has opened, or the water is ALREADY up to temp. If it was installed in the heater circuit then it would slow the water heating, but at the benefit of even faster oil heating and a more even heating of the whole engine. Nick

Cars Car Conversions this month has an article on a car with a turbo & supercharger and a magnetic clutch ❗ The highly overdriven supercharger works upto 3000rpm then the clutch disengages and a butterfly opens to allow the turbo (which is now up to boost) to continue supplying the engine. He gets full marks for injenuity, using a window winder motor to power the buterfly I think that it was The Lancia Delta S-4 which Nigel refers to. Nick

Thanks Bill My first stumbling block (of many) is the 40:1 AirFuelRatio I am happy that you can take the throttle position as a "request for power" and then add enough fuel to produce that power but will this not result in overheating 🤔 Although I have to admit that I never understood the mechanism of overheating due to lean mixture. Nick

I think that hydraulics work best at transferring high forces at low speeds rather than spining somthing very fast, although they are good a tranferring power to inaccesible places. I seem to remember some superchargers using a magnetic clutch between the crank and the compressor. This is great in that when cruising at light throttle you are not using energy to compress the air and then stopping it going into the engine because the throttle is only open a bit. You do need to arrange for the engine to get SOME air when the compressor (positive displacement) is not being driven, This may be something really simple like a lightly sprung trap door that opens when the manifold pressure is below atmospheric. Does anyone know how big the VW G-Charger was 🤔 off the G60 golf and as I remember there was a smaller G-40 polo version. I think is was named after the shape of the pumping surface was like a "G" and the number was the depth of the G in mm It might be possible to pick one up second hand and they are about the right size, as they were used in the Golf on a 1.8L 8valve engine producing 160bhp or with a smaller compressor wheel 190bhp. Nick

1.6 rods are longer than 1.8 rods - so this would be a step in the wrong direction. A lower compresion ratio on a "budget" could be to make a spacer plate between head and block. Weather this is possible with the existing head/through bolts I am not sure. You get the bonus of having two head gasets that can fail! Equally belt runs need to be looked at but Dave Walker did do this to a golf with some success. Nick

Where are you going to place the *screen* for this set-up? Presumably the memory facility is in this part of the kit - not the transmitter. My point being that I have dificulty getting a direct signal from a VDO wireless bike computer to the handlbars of a mountian bike, so I would expect that the screen would need to be in line of sight and within half a meter of the transmitter (German telecoms regulations) You may get away with putting it on the boot floor if it can transmit reliably through the alloy sheet - if not you will be forced to mount it under the car Nick

When my clutch went - I thought my whole engine had blown up It was just the friction plate had disintergrated but there was enough stuff knocking around in the bellhousing to make a lot of noise. I hope yours is as simple a fix as mine. Nick

Fordy someone was trying to explain how they had mounted a "Spa" mirror and I could not work out what they had done. Do I understand that the larger mirror has a different 90 degree? mounting compared to the smaller mirror which has a 45 degree mounting? But anyway I retained the mounting and I got a longer countersunk bolt and attached the mirror to the windscreen stantion using the middle bolt hole. I have only just done this so I am not sure If I will bother with the drilling a hole in the stantion for the lower mounting point. Nick

Kevin previous owner did it so I cant comment on before and after i'm affraid. Nick

OUCH!!! If you have pushed your whole drive train back then every bit of the drive train would need looking at. My thoughts are the diff mounts could be knackered - but I am not sure how much *slack* there is in the system. ie the prop shaft is splined to fit in the end of the gearbox - how far can the gearbox move back untill the prop shaft starts to move? Does the prop hit the gearbox casing or transfer that load up the gearbox internals ? Hope you are lucky Nick

Mr Luddite Not quite sure what you mean by *the second half* of the packing. I ask because I am about to re-pack my (new to me) 2nd hand Goodwood silencer. I had just assumed that you took out all of the Hex bolts and slid off the outer sleeve. Although my sleeve is paralell - I half remember seeing some where the sleeve was shaped. Nick

Mine was done at Whitings some time ago. The rack was raised about 5mm which aparently helped. But i need to get it checked again as I have changed the front ride height. I would like to think that a fairly new car with a new rack running at standard ride height should be OK as it is. - but maybe I am expecting too much Nick

If they are the ones that I am thinking of then they are not designed to fit directly to the K (or any other )cylinder head. They would require a manifold like what carbs mount on. I would suspect that the bolt spacing and bore spacing is interchangable with Weber carbs. So you have 2 options - the direct to head throttle body which lines up with the angle of the ports and spacing of the cylinders perfectly - but has the small obstruction of the throttle butterfly. OR The Roller barrel which needs to mount on a manifold which is S shaped and kinked to align the port spacing to the TB spacing. But you have no obstruction in the TB when the throttle is open. I would got for the DTH ones every time. Before the R400 lot start shouting I think that their TBs although made in pairs are spaced correctly for the K and they sit on a bespoke manifild that aligns them correctly to the ports. Nick

Angus photo opertunities aside - you were half a mile from my place and I could have offered you somewhat more convenient transport for the crane. Surely you are not intending taking the engine out now - although it is nice to work in a warm garage. Nick nallen@ashland.com 07887 736 779

Next on the list of things to replace is to look at the water pump However there is some milage in using water wetter and trying to seal off the gap between the nose cone and the radiator. When my Xflow overeheated last weekend (faulty fan connection) the temp was reading 100 there was some boiling going on as the over flow was bubbling through. What kind of temps are you seeing? is the over heating in traffic or on a run? Do you have a large fan blocking the airflow through the radiator? Nick

Try on Rallyusedparts.co.uk I think I saw one on there for 140 or less 30K in a caterham Nick

Its a bit late in the day - or infact a day late but if you are still looking then Ashford high street on the corner by the war memorial is a really good independant shop selling it or there was 6 months ago - I am not a loyal to the shop as I was. N

Peter I thought it was more of a matt grey dusty colour over an orange base coat or might it just need a clean Nick

My 88 car has an old style flat recirculating heater which does not have a shut off valve. The only heater control method I have is to turn off the fan. On a Xflow (and probably on other cars also) when the heater is removed the pipes can just be plugged ie you dont need to divert the flow past the heater, you can just block it off, this makes the pipework for fitting a control valve a lot simpler. I will be having a look at B&Q for an isolation valve similar to what Brent mentioned. If I am feeling really adventurous I may try to mount the valve on the bulkhead and try to get a control back into the cockpit. Nick

I am now the proud owner of a slightly used TechCraft Goodwood sliencer. However (and I did know this when I bought it) it has a 2.25 inch inlet. My Current collector is 2 inch, It looks a fairly easy job to modify the collector to the larger diameter by cutting off the old collector exit pipe, and a little of the collector and welding on a new bit of pipe. First Question - any suggestions of who to do the work in west London. I have a fabricator in mind but he does a lot of big orders so my work either is rushed through because it is little or keeps getting put to the back of the que because its little Second Question as well as this change because the Goodwood is so much longer there is much less pipe between the collector and the start of the silencer. The current setup is Collector to 2 inch pipe for 8 inches then silencer changing to Collector to 2.25 inch pipe for 4 inches then HUGE silencer. Is this really going to screw up my engine ? Or is most of the resonance happened in the primary pipes? It is a fuel injected X-Flow with big valve head and 244 cam. Thanks Nick

I believe that some shift light systems require you to rev the engine to the shift light value to show the system what limit you want to use. Some require you to rev to half the required value to set it. I dont envy having to rev the engine while stationary looking at the tacho (assuming that it is accurate) and setting the rev limit. But then again it does not need to be very accurate, simply give you a reminder that a new gear would be nice while you get on with looking at the road. Nick

Oliver Check that your valve cutouts are deep enough for the new cam, they may only just be deep enough for your current cam - assuming the new cam has more lift and not simply more duration. I am running a 244 cam with a single timing chain so it can be done but It is one of the things I am considering upgrading. I would suggest the exhaust in combination with the cam as everything I have read indicates that you must upgrade the system as a whole - nothing will give much benefit untill the bottleneck in your system is removed. It seems to me that the exhaust is the bottleneck. Specificaly the Manifold, the real gain is the long primary pipes of the race/side exit system - not the fact the the total length of the exhaust is a little less. As to how quiet a side exit can be - It will be louder especially as the 2nd hand side exit that you are likely to pick up in your budget will have little packing in it but you could even connect the race manifold onto the rear exit system - assuming diameters are the same. To fit an old side exit silencer onto the existing manifold would be to miss the point. Nick

Martin As per phone call I tried to mail you for directions but not sure if it got through. I have had trouble with that bit of the site before. My Mail is nallen@ashland.com If you are quick I could still come round this evening - if not tommorow Thanks Nick

Do you have adjustable spring platforms? If you do they may simply be set high - I set mine high as I kept on bottoming out on a particular peice of road that I now dont use I was thinking of lowering it again but I do kind of like never having to worry too much about ground clearance.

Nothing to do with me entry is on 21st may - assume it is still for sale http://www.rallyusedparts.co.uk/showpartsbydate.cfm Nick