DohNut

The indicated temp at exit of the head will remain unchanged - because that is where the thermostat is. However when it gets to the radiator IF the same amount of heat is removed the temperature exiting the radiator and re-entering the head will be higher. But as Peter indicated a radiator gives off the most heat when it is hottest. A high SHC liquid would give off a lot of energy and still remain hot. by virtue of being hot it would then give off more heat. This water now re-enters the head and the same amount of energy is added again, this will result in a lower temperature reaching the thermostat which will adjust to let less water through the radiator But in the head the temperature difference between water and metal is greater so more energy will be removed from the head. But that is just considering sustainable steady running with the thermostat making corrections. Nick Edited by - Doh!Nut on 27 Oct 2005 07:57:24

A bit of a black art I think some of the equations I have seen are quite scarey but the one for primarys was definately linking diameter to length. some figures I got from it for a 425cc cylinder 32in *arrowright*1.46diam 34in *arrowright*1.42diam 36in *arrowright*1.39diam 38in *arrowright*1.35diam I measured 34inches - will have to check how wildly the others differ 1and3/8inch is 1.375 in decimal ie at the current length is short for the diameter. I would be inclined to go up a diameter to 1.5 inch as the engine will have bigger ports than any standard x-flow - I guess 1.5diam *arrowright*30inch length Add a few inches and test it, cut back to 30 inches if necesary. Simple really except that eqaution ( from 4-stroke performance tuning) ignores revs ❗ Ill have a look and see if I can dig out the actual equations At least you do have more space to play with than Norms bda Nick

Aeroscreen *arrowright*no hood *arrowright*no hoodsticks *arrowright*low profile boot cover Nick 😬

Now theres a thought ❗ I have the springy cap on the engine and the flat non-springy cap on the expantion bottle. Have they been the wrong way round 🤔 Even if thats the case I have done longer trips without the problem so why should it appear now 🤔 Nick

It should draw water back in and I think it did, I just had lost more water than the volume of the top up tank. - Maybe All water was full on Friday - it did need some topping up probably in proportion with the shorter previous trip.

I did a hugely exiting 350 miles of motorway driving over the weekend ☹️ The car behaved itself with stable water temperatures as usual. Then at the bus lane bit of the M4 the water temp started rising even though we were doing 40 mph. I expected it to stop at 90 when the fan comes in but it kept rising at just short of 100C I pulled off. I checked the water and added over 2 liters which still did not fill it up completely . I gave it a go to limp off the next junction to a garage to top it up properly. Two things arrise from this - a partially filled cooling system works ok - up to a point. but mainly where the hell did all my water go. 🤔 THe system is of the type that excess pressure is vented off through a top up resevoir - this was empty and steaming when I stopped. My main suspect is the radiator cap - it all appears fine - spring - rubber - all look ok. All hoses OK as far as I can see. And on the way there on friday some one drove into the back of me and I ran out of petrol - other than that it was a great weekend 😬 Nick

As far as I can work out it is down to the accuracy of their construction and the consistency of their operation. The problem is that (especially in wider track) the damper only moves a small amount compared to the wheel movement. When the wheel hits a bump the damper has to work out that its moving, in which direction (at which speed for the posh ones) and apply the appropriate damping. A damper should do this the instant they move and act consistently accross the range of suspention movement, temperatures etc. At its simplist a damper can be visualised as oil moving through a hole that is blocked by a *ball bearing and spring* type one way valve - but aparently dampers have more than 200 moving parts ❗ oh and thy are shiney too 😬 Edited by - Doh!Nut on 21 Oct 2005 10:14:29

Ammo Ok just remembered/ worked out how the older and newer wishbones differ, The newer wishbones have a standard bush at the front. The older ones have a pair of tapered tophats that fit either end of the bush housing, the inside of the housing is also slightly tapered. As the top hats are bolted together they are pushed outwards to fit snugly within the bush housing. I think you could get a pair of top hat bushes made to fit the standard bush housing in the new wishbones. By fitting only the rear bush loosely that should allow enough *give* to get the rear mount into place. The only concern is how tight do the Nylatron bushes need to be within the bush housing 🤔 The tapered top hat bush in a tapered (from both ends) hole will tighten the bush against the housing A non tapered top hat in a non tapered housing will mildly tighten the bush - this may be enough, slightly tapering the top hat may do it also or making the bush an onversize interference fit. If it is not could you make a slim sleeve that fits in the parallel bush housing so that you could used tapered top hats. The sleeve would have to be able to expand to push out onto the bush housing walls either in metal with a lengthways cut or it could even be made of Nylatron. Nick

To be fair the Burton block is Alloy and will take a 90mm bore (making 2 liter ) There are a couple of 1600cc 711m blocks on racecar direct for £125 each Nick

Tyrone Cant find my photos at the moment, but similar to the one posted by itguy on the W****fld thread- except it is 90 degrees clockwise from his poition and the bracket is only 30mm long. N

If the 1655mm tyre had 6mm usable tread then by the time it was at the wear bars it would be 1617mm ish. ie a 2 and a bit% variance, on every tyre. Nick

Mine is positioned at 45degrees top right looking at the crankshaft. The timing disk is mounted to the front pulley by three bolts. A small peice of angle aluminium holds the sensor - the ally stands off the block by two 5mm posts. Nick

Nothing to do with me and no I dont have an SV

So if Mr ManxSeven could measure his pedal from Footpad to pivot to piston pivot then we could see if the *High ratio* pedal would do anything Nick

But then you have to weld in the tubey bit that the bush sits in. Without that I would be surprised if you could get a nicely pivoting pedal. N

How does drilling a hole work 🤔 If you mean drill one for the piston to attach to that is closer to the pivot point then you have a pedal that has more mechanical leverage but is softer. I assumed the intention was to get a pedal that was firmer as an alternative to fitting the race master cylinder. Nick

I posted this a while ago I would call it a thread but a stiff ignoring would be a better description. 🙆🏻 As mentioned there has been some footwell design changes which do I think do affect your use of some pedals. My 88 car has two adjustment holes for the clutch - the later ones had three. here

Angus First I would disconnect the heater, you are less likely to screw anything else up if it goes wrong. (sods law not your cack handedness ) Flush it through both directions with your hose, turn it upsidedown and shake it about etc. Depending on the amount of gunk that was removed you may have fixed it or try and use some of the rad clean stuff which is usually an acid which dissolves the iron oxide. Given that your engine is alloy as is your rad quite how effective it may be I dont know. If it did not look like it did anything then try again with very hot water. Weather it will take off the radweld is another matter again. Nick

Also in the perception of acceleration The caterham does not squat significantly compared to a saloon which rise at the front and drop at the rear significantly. It will feel like the acceleration is pushing you back in your seat but it is just the seat reclining a little more. Same with braking - big *event* in a saloon *stands on its nose* where the caterham just gets on with it and you are strapped in tight so dont get thrown around hence the perception is not as great. Nick

The Weber system only gets you an ECU with a basemap and the TBs, You still need to get the High pressure pump and fuel lines / regualator and either an injection tank or a swirlpot. You will also need to make brackets for the crank sensor and water temp. In which case the feature of a pre installed map is a little insignificant However you are welcome to have a look at my Weber/Xflow for inspiration Nick

Most Haynes manuals have a standard page of spark plug photos showing too hot / lean / rich etc. Nick

if it self adjusts and releases like it was supposed to ❗ Nick

Eh 🤔unless dobuy is steve. Mike But my point still stands for those on std front brakes. If you want more power then you could try here without rear handbrake of course - but you could swap back for MOT, I am giving it serious consideration - just for the weight and bleeding then putting a limiting valve in. Nick

But if the piston area were smaller then it would give a firmer pedal and improve front to rear balance.

Aparently - From Rally design Compares weight to Sierra caliper so assume mounting points are the same. This looks like the golf caliper that had issues being fitted. here Interesting to find out how/what they have done to make it fit, piston size etc. Nick