DohNut

New cambelts etc, might be a good idea. And natrually some vernier pulleys to time the cams in properly Nick

tyresave here scroll to the bottom Nick Edited by - Doh!Nut on 12 Sep 2005 12:29:35

Acceleration is the killer but as all engines have the same basic crank rods piston setup a piston speed number gives a pretty good indication of the stresses caused by the acceleration of the pistons at each end of the stroke Average piston speed tells you nothing (as such) but is easy to calculate and infers quite a lot. conrod length does have an impact on the shape of the acceleration curve but is a relatively small variation in this context Nick

Bri I would like a set please One pair front, one pair rear obviously 😬 Thanks Nick

For $8 each/pair Ill have a set - If you're offering 😬 Nick

"Pinky whitish one on trailer" according to girlfriend 7am this morning Nick

Bri I came accross them here for £13.88 for 2 probably plus VAT. I have a spare front nipple 😳 (Mr Scaramanga) 😳 that I was going to post to them to ensure I got a good match, but I dont know what thread the rears are. Nick

I think that Jerry was referring to the Mike Barnby 3 piece 5 spoke R500 wheels not the new grey (anthracite 🤔) 10spoke wheels. The MB have special nuts- dont know why or how they are special though Nick

.22" inlet .24" exhaust Thats what I was told for a 244 Nick

The amount of light put out by anything can be measured in volume and intensity. Lumens is volume and Candella (or MilliCandella Mcd) is brightness. LEDs put out little volume but concentrate that light into a narrow beam. The narrower the beam the brigher the light - but only when you are looking at the beam. For a car light application you would be better getting a larger number of wider angle LEDs, 30+degrees. This should reduce the chance of dazzle and improve the chances of you being seen by someone off axis If you do find it is too bright then you can make the LED diffuse by roughening the surface of the LED with emerycloth. Nick ps10-40 is piss poor you need to look at the high intensity or ultrabright etc 5000-10000mcd+

Look like the right ones to me - and you will be getting the alloy hubs as well. Nick Natrually that is a guess based on the same ebay photo that you have seen 😬

Its a good point and why I did not completely close the valve. Vulcan suggested the same setup as you have which does not actually help in having an adjustable heater. I can bodge something again with a T-peice to continue to allow flow but is hardly simplifying the pipework. 🙆🏻 Back to the cardboard blanking plate for while then Nick

I have an old flat style heater which does a very good job in the winter but does not have any control of the temperature - it is simply hot all the time. Even if the fan is off the general buffeting of air in the footwell forces air through the heater making it very uncomfortable. The super cheap summer modification was to cut up a cornflakes packet to the shape of the heater base and insert it under the heater blocking off the flow of air. It did work surprisingly well and made hot weather driving much more comfortable - but not really a long term solution. I had a rummage a Wicks and found an 1/4 turn ball valve for £2.50 and some 15mm copper tube. This was the closest I could get to the 16mm piping used on the heater. The original plan was to put a 2 inch length of pipe into each end of the valve and insert it into the middle of the heater hose. This is certainly the simplest solution but it does introduce another two joints and leaves the valve dangling in mid air rather. So I decided to mount the valve on the heater. I set about one end of the valve with a Dremmel to enlarge the 15mm hole to 16mm. Cut off the swaged end of the heater inlet and cleaned off the paint. Enlarging the hole did take some time but was nothing compared to the buggery of grinding out the inside of the compression olive to 16.05mm to allow it to slip over the heater inlet. But all of that allowed me to clamp the ball valve immediatly onto the heater minimising the joints and mounting it securely. Unfortunately the only valve I could get had a screwdriver adjustment rather than a lever, The next task is to drill and tap the adjustor to mount a lever that can be actuated by a rod from the cockpit. I tried it yesterday with the valve half open and had a pleasantly warm breeze on my feet - most refreshing. Photos here ps the valve is shown with the one way arrow pointing the wrong way - was mounted the correct way in the end.

Just because the car is geared for that speed it does not mean it will get there. With a similar setup to yours I could go faster in 4th gear 7500rpm then I could in 5th I would change to 5th and the speed would remain the same. The flip side of having an overgeared 5th is a less frantic engine on the motorway Nick

My thermostat is sometimes a little slow opening, especially if the the car has not been used for a while. Your thermostat is new and I would not be surprised if it was a little sticky to begin with. The worst this usually exibits is a rise to 90 before it pings open, drops to 70/75 and settles at 80. However I did some work on the heater this weekend and the first run out the temprature got to nearly 100 (and me having kittens) before the thermostat opened. This was due some air in the heater making its way round to the thermostat. A quick top up of water and all appears to be well again. Nick

I'd make another effort to find the original connection point to the loom as the last thing you want to do for electrical reliability is to start introducing more iffy connections Nick unlikely given the current that LEDs draw but you are asking that cicuit to power 3brake lights rather than 2, you might try a slightly larger fuse. some long thin 3rd brake lights dont actually use LEDs just small incandesant bulbs and could draw a significant current.

If I had a pootling clasic car I might risk it but even a 135bhp crossflow is making considerably more power than Ford ever intended. The phosphate aditive (Castrol Valvemaster etc.) is proven and treats 250liters for £7.50. The £50 would pay for 10000 miles of additave at 25mpg. Its your engine Nick

No but you could try threading the stem and bolting it on, a tap and die set is only a tenner. 😬

You need a biocide for anaerobic bacteria. My last company used to supply to ships but V V expensive. You could try the land based division of Ashland chemicals but as they made me redundant - try someone else if you can Second thoughts try a marine chandlery as yachts/motorcruisers suffer from excessive condensation in fuel tanks - the bacteria lives at the water / oil interface at the bottom of the tank. Nick

Yes you can - I did a few years ago I got them from Halfords I think I cant remember the number but I will try and look it out - I can never remember where the caliper came from which of course is the other way to find out the oart number, Nick

OR Came accross the Solo bleed nipples - not tried them but interesting. here Nick

Save his money It is a spring loaded valve that leaks air into the plenum, quite how air "pulsing" through this 1mm hole are supposed to affect the condition of the air that has just come in through a 50mm hole is beyond me. When the throttle is open there is no pressure difference inside to outside the plenum so no air will go through the valve so how will it affect performance 🤔 It costs 10p in parts - if it is so good why is it not on every car 🤔 The one slight posative feature is if you have carbs then on overrun the maifold vacuum is not quite as strong therefore slightly less fuel is drawn through hence marginaly less fuel is used. Most fuel injected cars have fuel cutoff on overrun to improve emmisions therefore there is no improvement to be made. Nick

Do you have 105hp cams or 130 cams ? If you have the 130 cams then I dont think there will be much, if anything in it - I think I read that the 2 liter and the 130 cams from 1800 are the same. Nick

Are there any suppliers websites or addressess? Google only comes up with Black circles and the like which all have a search engine based on car models not tyre brands / sizes Nick

I have an 88 DeDeon which has a brake pedal with 215mm from center of foot pad to center of pivot and 50mm from pivot to center of cable mount. This gives a 215/50 = 4.3 :1 ratio This actuates a standard master cylinder of 🤔 diameter I have got a modified 2nd hand pedal from a 2000 chasis that has 160mm from center of foot pad to center of pivot and 70mm from pivot to center of cable mount. This gives a 160/70 = 2.3 :1 ratio The new pedal matches to a pair of 0.625" master cylinders For starters the foot pad is 55mm higher which is OK if I dont rest my heel against the chasis member and put my feet up on the raised section of the footwell. But if I do that with my left foot as well the foot pad of my clutch pedal is half way down my foot 🙆🏻 Aparently the footwell was changed in 94 does anyone know if this came with a new set of pedals 🤔 If so could someone give me the dimentions of the post 94 clutch pedal and could someone give me the dimentions of an unmodified post 94 brake pedal 😬 With that info I should be able to work how how the line pressure this set-up compares with standard pedal and uprated master cylinder etc Thanks Nick