myothercarsa2cv

I would as well but the old gauge is there if needed! Edited by - myothercarsa2cv on 29 Jun 2014 21:36:42

I'm 99% sure I still have my old one (but I don't know which of the two it is - they look the same...) - will check tomorrow. Drop me a BM with your address and I'll pop it in the post and let you know what the postage is.

And if you could chrome the pedestal... Looks good If you're not handy with a drill, CBS is there for you.

If they don't know what you're talking about, I believe they are the stalks they use for Radicals (code on my invoice is FMA 11). Was bloody expensive when I got mine once VAT and carriage was added (£28.73 all in), but the vision is vastly improved. Invoice #33956 if that helps them find it.

Quoting simonpa: I'm sure the later Caged bars have no facility for a petty bar, so FIA approval is for just the rear bar. All UK events I've been to that mandate an FIA bar have allowed early and late FIA bars without a petty strut (as long as they have the sticker). They do - different mounting though. The new ones are attached to the centre of the top of the bar with two bolts. This would be my preferred option. Make sure your roll bar is actually tall enough though - Caged are very accommodating and made me a bespoke one Cost no more than a standard one (and they had to redo it 😶‍🌫️)

I am now convinced I need a dry sump, thanks all

I should bookmark this to remind me to do donuts the OTHER way! here - you can see pressure drops to about 20psi and sometimes gets to 25psi. Of course you don't watch the gauges when p*ssing about, but it's worth keeping in mind. Wish I'd recorded a donut the other way for comparison. This is with an Apollo. ETA: video of the TG track corroborates the fact that OP with an Apollo is fine on left handers and drops off significantly on right handers. Edited by - myothercarsa2cv on 11 Jun 2014 00:16:45

Got a racetech type one, with the single screw mount (and associated wonkiness) but you're welcome to it if you can wait until I get back from China in a couple of weeks? I never bothered putting it on because a) the X is in the way and b) I'm in the way! Can't really get it high enough so it just points at your shoulder.

Get a bolt extractor which is basically a reverse thread drill bit that should be able to grab it and spin it out. Or get a torx bit and jam it in. Try that first...

I got some fancy nipples for easy bleeding (one way valves). Didn't realise front and rears were different threads, ruined the rear calipers, and the threaded bit wasn't long enough for the fronts so didn't seal properly (nut bit grounded out on the caliper body). These ones. All in all a very expensive mistake for something that really isn't that much of an issue anyway 😶‍🌫️

If you leave the bulkhead in situ it can be a bit of a bugger if the channels built in to the scuttle itself slot under the bulkhead (IYSWIM). I wrestled it out and trimmed them down to make it easier in the future. I got some ali rivnuts and screws to replace the rivets, looks smart, but quite time consuming to do! I'd love to replace the ali with carbon some time... 🥰

Have you checked exactly what type of diff you have? What are the symptoms? Phil will likely be able to tell you what's wrong and how to fix it. Best bet is, once you've had a chat, to post it to him P.S. Caterham won't answer today and nor will Phil, as it is a public holiday Edited by - myothercarsa2cv on 26 May 2014 16:25:09

The BMW diff comes in a carrier (i.e. bolted in to a frame) whereas the Sierra diff bolts straight in to the chassis. I suspect you have the BMW as it's a new car.

Phil at R&R told me to just stick 1L in. Seems to be ok so far! Wait - BMW or Sierra? I'm talking Sierra. Edited by - myothercarsa2cv on 26 May 2014 11:35:55

Regarding the rear end, as you have narrow track I assume you have trailing arms. Pop these in the lower hole if you haven't already, it is considerably better. Flat floor the car too if you can, even on a flat driveway with a bloke in the seat is better than nothing and makes a huge difference. Remember that adjusting the camber will change the toe. Don't forget the caster, too. 2-2-2 I think is the default setting for narrow track cars. What ARBs do you have?

Or get something like this (although these are probably not right for your wheels) - less faffing about with a special tool, and makes it harder for people to nick, as who has a big old torx bit anyway? 😶‍🌫️ Edited by - myothercarsa2cv on 24 May 2014 22:49:05

Could well have been me, I was around there about 3.30-4pm ish. If it had skis in the front seat, and was driven by a chap that had a multicolour bobble hat and flying goggles on, it's me 😬

Ta Ian, was on the iPhone 😶‍🌫️

The adjustable sleeves are still worthwhile so you can set the ride height properly* rather than by CCs guesswork. But it won't help with the drive *Or at least on a level surface with your weight in it.

If you have an Apollo, do you have a one way valve? Could just be the time it takes to fill the tank up.

Yep, had a sniff

There were a few about... Perhaps it was peer pressured in to leaking?

Oh and it was only a few drips. Nothing that could empty it.

It hasn't leaked in the subsequent 150 odd miles of driving though...

Yesterday at the handling day I noticed a couple of oil spots in the donut area, and after checking my car saw it was me! The oil was dripping from the bottom of the Apollo tank, so I parked up and gave everything a double check. Oil was not leaking from the unions, the sandwich plate or the temp sender so it had to be sump plug, the that seemed to be nice and tight. After a while, and wiping everything down, I ran the engine to see if I could see where the drip was originating and... Nothing. Couldn't find a thing. Sent my friend off to carry on enjoying himself, and checked every time he came back, and still nothing. Got home after a long drive, nothing. So what could it be? Were the vigorous donuts something to do with it? Did the tank overheat and the sump plug loosen, and tighten as it cooled again? Confused...