myothercarsa2cv

Thanks Ian and Roger Pretty conclusive 😶‍🌫️

So looks like any 90 GL5 will do

This is the article I first saw the crazy bugs in... here - Completely mad 😬

Thanks Duncan, looks good Andy, not heard of that... Will have a look Edited by - myothercarsa2cv on 18 Mar 2014 19:37:33

This is the speedo drive wotsit: here It's what I have on my car, works well, and I believe the speedo gauges are the same in my car as they would be in a Sigma/Duratec car, so it shouldn't be a million miles out...

I will do that as well But good to get user experiences too

Is it possible to swap to the gearbox driven speedo?

Having read the archives, people seem to have had some success with the Silktrans and the Ford SAE90. Does anyone know what Caterham put in the sierra diffs they supplied? I have no idea what went in as Caterham swapped the diff 3 times for me, finally plumping for a Quaife built one, if that makes any difference? I've been happy with it to be honest, so getting the same would be great, but if not, I wanted to explore my options. Has anyone tried the Millers Classic 90 that Opie sell? Phil at R&R is working his magic on the diff as we speak 😬 Quaife ATB going in, so don't need to worry about friction modifiers.

I've been busy with exams so not had a lot of time to get in the garage unfortunately. However, I did manage to get hold of another cam cover to replace the original one which I drilled on the nearside as per the imperial chassis apollo tank set up, but, as the metric chassis sits the tank in the middle, the offside makes more sense. So rather than have too many nuts and bolts floating around the cam cover, I thought I'd just get another and drill it on the other side. An eBay bargain later and it duly arrived. A bargain, or so I thought... There's a fair bit of corrosion on the cover and I might want to get this looked at at some point, maybe get it blasted and coated again. Maybe something colourful? Anyway, it will have to do for now. I might rub down the problem bits and spray it with some plasticote, but it'll be covered for the most part. Ah well. I slapped some paint on the trailing arm and A-frame while they are off the car too. A nice coat of hammerite to start with, then I'll rub it down and give it a finishing spray with the plasticote. It's under the car so doesn't need to look amazing. I need to decide whether to get under the car and tidy up the underside... It's a lot of effort, and I don't have all the time in the world! I start a new job in a couple of weeks so I'd like to get it done by then... My SBFS half doors (second hand) arrived too. They look nice and smart, and are easy to fit, needing just a few poppers. Of course, the ones in the doors don't line up with the ones I put in for the plastic doors, but the holes will be covered. I'll just fill the holes with a rivet. No problem. If anyone wants some plastic half doors, they will be for sale... They're just too much effort for me to fit - I can't be trimming them down and what not when I don't have the right tools. I had a quick look under the bonnet again to see what I could do better with the air filter situation, when I noticed a bit of rubber poking out from under the hose clip... The rubber neck on the filter has split where the brace sits under the clip. B*ll*cks. Tried a bit of evostik, hopefully that will do the trick... Feeling a bit dejected, SWMBO cheered me up with a little present. It's a well known fact that Caterham gear levers get cold, so I now have a little woolly hat to keep it warm at night! Awwww. http://photos-d.ak.instagram.com/hphotos-ak-ash/10013044_275387242628243_1779546903_n.jpg Oh - I also dropped the diff off at Road and Race this morning - Phil is busy as he's been away on holiday, but he's going to squeeze it in this week - hopefully the car will be rolling again by next week! How exciting.

I don't know if you can get the parts here but there is a reasonably large market in the USA for billet blocks, steel everything, turbos and what not for VW flat fours. Like this guy, or these guys.

I'd get a nylon one off eBay, similar to the Quaife ones. Looks smart enough, and is lighter too 😬 SWMBO bought me a hat: http://photos-d.ak.instagram.com/hphotos-ak-ash/10013044_275387242628243_1779546903_n.jpg Edited by - myothercarsa2cv on 16 Mar 2014 21:45:33

Chap from the company cam back and recommended having two catch tanks - one for each breather hose - or T'ing the breathers in to the catch tank and a breather filter on the outlet, bunging the TB and plenum inlets. How you'd do that I don't know. Re the issue with the filter, they've had only 3 problems in 500 similar to that one, and they've sourced a better filter now so don't expect further issues. Chap is running them on his own car so he's obviously happy with them.

Surely whatever is connected to the +ve terminal gets fitted to one side of the BMS, then you put a cable between the battery and the BMS? So only one cable should go to the starter motor, and the rest go wherever they need to go? I can't see why you'd need an extra connector, just some longer cables. Unless... You're going to put the three cables in the choc bloc above and then have one off each terminal of the BMS?

This one?

You want to drive your car?

No good for tarts, though, is it Charlie?

I do have the progressives. Interesting! Time to jack up the rear 😬 Any excuse to fiddle instead of drive

35mm Elie? That seems a lot more than the recommended 15mm... Any reason?

The sleeves and collars do crop up from time to time, keep an eye out. If not, buy a second hand set of billies off someone, swap the collars over and sell on for £20 less

What's loose? If the threads are gone in the stalks, I can send you some that you'll need to paint. If the big grub screw won't grip the ball joint, try putting a slither of rubber in there first. Not a lot to go wrong on these, really...

Not crying that I have RiF stuff, that's great Just crying that his techniques were not preserved ☹️ P.S. Peter - let us know how you get on with Mick and if the quality is good enough to match RiF Edited by - myothercarsa2cv on 13 Mar 2014 13:30:10

Quoting Fred Gassit: Subject close to my heart at the moment... One thing to consider - MSA demand minimum 1 litre catch tank for competition. Questions: How to plumb the tank, how to vent it and what to fill it with? Do the MSA require a 1 ltr catch tank if it vents to the plenum though? I'll ask if they'd do a bulk buy discount... And if anyone has fitted one to a Rover K

The main thing to look out for is the rim fouling on the brake calipers / de dion ear / ARB droplinks. I assume as you're asking about fouling you don't have 13s at the moment? The only issue with the tyres might be fouling on the wing stays if the offset is not the same to what's coming off. You might need to bend them...

PCD will probably be the same (4x108), but the offset might not be quite right. Something to check.

Quoting Paul Richards: Quoting myothercarsa2cv: The 666 stuff was as good as RiF's I don't think so. 666 made very little as they didn't use the same techniques or machine as RIF. What they did do however was sell all RIFs old stock including those which RIF classed as substandard. I suspect you probably purchased some of those. Interesting, perhaps that was indeed the case. In which case, Edit - not heard of cactus, but Mick Made came up a while ago and no one knew how to get in touch with the guy! Edited by - myothercarsa2cv on 12 Mar 2014 12:20:35