myothercarsa2cv

The cheapest way is to buy a fixed boss as opposed to a quick release one. Check eBay, there's one on there at the moment. Reckon for about a tenner for the boss, or check the racers' site? I've got te fixed one, quite happy with it.

I've had mine nearly 6 years and have picked up zero paint chips. I have no paint 😬 Agreed that CC should get it looking good out the box, I don't quite get the effort you're going to, but it's not my car

I thought spigot rings were only really necessary for wheels that used bolts instead of nuts and studs?

Those driveshaft sensors seem to be quite unreliable. My car uses one of these and as far as I can tell the speedo unit is the same as the Sigma engined cars, so why not use something that is a bit more reliable? Shouldn't be too much of a ball ache to wire in one of these units (if you can find one).

I've sent a blat mail.

Chris, I've got a set of M1144 fronts and blue spot rears brand new if you want them. I'm in Dartford tonight. New discs too if needed. You can have them and just replace them after if you want.

Quoting TangoMikeRomeo: Should Think fall below their usual standards Redline would be worth a call.I've struggled with Think on occasion, as I don't know what I'm asking for half the time. But they always get it right eventually. They also sent me a couple of free seals for the sandwich plate, glad I used a new one, leak free first time 😬

Spa for me too. I think you'll need longer stalks for the sides, Spa can do these. CBS do mirrors like Racetechs, not bad but not as good as Spa I don't think. I managed to get some s/h ones they do crop up.

After collecting the diff from Phil, it sat around for a bit, not doing much, until my brother offered his services to help get it ready. Taking him up on his offer, and knowing that presented with a challenge he'll always accept, I got him to bench press the diff in to position while I sorted the hardware, and, half an hour later, it was in! A few other bits we tackled there and then, but called it a day as we both had other things to get up to. A week or two later and it's time to put everything back together. First, I pumped the diff oil in to the diff, then reassembled the rear end. The A-frame was the biggest pain in the behind, as manouevering the de dion tube on my own, whilst trying to line it up with the A frame, was not easy! I then torqued it all up, making sure I got everything as per the manual, and polished off the wing and as much as I could do on the front end. This involved making up a bracket for the water bottle out of some old aluminium, measure, cut, drill, rivet, all pretty straightforward and a masterpiece if I may say so! A few days later, and my hose arrived from Think (quite an ordeal to order it, but got there in the end!). I fitted that, got it all as tight as I dared, and filled the engine with oil. Stuck the battery on charge just in case, and cranked for pressure until I got worried about damaging the battery. Did it again a while later, for as long as I dared again. Nothing on the gauge... One final crank, and I figured that if there wasn't oil in all the right places by now then there was not much hope for the engine! Fired her up, started first time, and although there was a little clicking from the top end to start with, it disappeared within seconds. All good! A little drive back and forth in the garden ensured everything was moving ok, and I left it to warm up a bit. The new 'dual' temperature gauge worked flawlessly, and it was seemingly leak free. Time to take it for a test drive. First impressions are good - the car seems to have a lot more traction, and is a lot harder to provoke, which is good. Some clonking is apparent, but no more than there was before. No over heating, good oil pressure, and plenty of speed. Fell in love all over again! Got back to the garage and had another quick check, and all seemed to be in the right place still, but rolling the car about did reveal some clonking from the rear end - I'm not sure if this is normal for a ATB, but I think I'll check with the POBC and Phil. I then decided to tackle the half doors, and that's when my run of good fortune came to an end, pulling a rivet through the skin at the rear and making it look like a dogs dinner. A strategically placed popper base should cover it up, but it might just be safer to use a self tapper and secure the doors on permanently. I should be able to get in and out ok like that... Ah well, it's not the end of the world. The chassis is looking a bit grotty so perhaps a full strip and rebuild and reskin is in order some time in the next few years (perhaps that's a job for a bonus, if I ever get one!). I can live with it for now. Called it a day, so will tackle the doors another time. A couple of pics: http://photos-g.ak.instagram.com/hphotos-ak-frc/10254142_551934458257094_1567892980_n.jpg http://distilleryimage2.ak.instagram.com/792cb81ece5c11e3a3940002c9c756b2_8.jpg

Here's what I've got... I guess your T is a little further back then? http://photos-g.ak.instagram.com/hphotos-ak-frc/10254142_551934458257094_1567892980_n.jpg Might help for reference? And yes, the car is now in one piece again! Finally! Edited by - myothercarsa2cv on 27 Apr 2014 23:45:32

I used a 45 degree elbow from eBay, plenty long enough. They usually give you the length on the tails.

Do you have the watts rear end? If just the trailing arms, make sure they're in the lower hole.

A 5 ltr should just do it, the PRRT adds a fair bit to the capacity. Pretty sure I had just a little left over.

I used a thin stainless washer on M4 fixings too, countersunk underneath the strap - holds fine and you'd never notice. Difficult bit is getting the lengths right as done heads aren't open I can try and dig out what I ordered if you like? I ended up drilling the scuttle where the mirrors mount so I can adjust them without removing the screen, but then again my screens aren't coming off so that doesn't bother me

I've found that the PRRT setup is pretty much self bleeding. I filled it as much as I could to start with, left it overnight, filled it again, took it for a drive, topped up a tad. I've left the bypass pipe in because I'm lazy

What's next, Chris?

Try Neil from Kit Car Direct to see if he has anything in the pipeline?

Dang it

Alright then I'll drop you a note

Amazon for me as well - very convenient and often free delivery too

Probably not

It could be that he didn't get the belt tight enough on the long run between cam pulley and crank pulley. If not, the tensioner would have take up the slack and put everything a notch out of time. Not so easy to spot as the timing marks on the cam pulleys will still line up...

Myles, it's empty 😬 Phil at Road and Race has it as we speak 😬

Racetech do a similar wheel as well. Put a wanted post on here and see if anyone has an old Momo floating around, that's the most cost efficient way 😬

Spotted you as you drove past The Hare at Langton Green. I was sat in the sun having a roast 😬