Mickrick

It's difficult to find propper pre-preg, with everything that will match, and with good quality. Good luck with your search. Now maybe you can see why I went all ally. I am a bit surprised by your comments above though. I bought some of his cycle wings, and although I passed them on before seeing them, the new owner seemed very pleased with them, and I've heard nothing but positive comments about his stuff. Just goes to show, the proof of the spotted dog is in the eating.

Just found a picture of my old Caterham nosecone. here It does indeed appear to be straight weave. If I where you, I'd go for the Caterham one, but have it clear coated. It will bring the weave out beautifully and fill any pin holes. It will also seal the carbon. When I polished mine, the black came off on the cloth.

There's MOG, but from what I can see, I assume it's hand laid glass, with a finishing layer of carbon. (I stand to be corrected) Not the lightest, but the finish quality looks to be superb!

To be fair, it's been a few years since I had mine, and I think it would have been O.K. if it had been clear coated to seal the surface. The problem is, there's no UV protection, and they go dull very quickly. I had a watermark also apear in mine, from when it got wet under the cover. Quality may have improved now.

You forgot to ask about pin holes and voids which traps wax, and stays white.

Bryn at Ultimate Carbon. It's the real deal, autoclaved pre-preg. *thumbup*

EFA, to get a nice neat finish, use masking tape, then as soon as you've gunned it in, spit on your finger, and wipe out the excess, leaving a nice smooth fillet/finish. Then remove the masking tape before it starts to skin over. Pull the tape towards the fillet, to avoid any stringy bits going onto the area you've masked. Any flat areas, you can smooth with a wet potato. 290 is quite runny. Edited by - Mickrick on 23 Dec 2009 10:27:52

Well, if we're also talking alternatives (Which wasn't the question of the OP) there's 3M 4200. Which is an adhesive sealant, but sticks so strong, I've seen a wooden toerail have to be destroyed to remove it, after 4200 was used to atatch it. Oh, and Grubbster's correct 292 is bloody strong too. There's a millon alternatives. Edited by - Mickrick on 22 Dec 2009 22:04:21

252 221 is an adhesive sealant. 252 is for bonding. So I would suggest that's the one you want. (We use it on boats )

You don't have gelcoat. Your carbon should be laid up with epoxy resin, and as such, has no UV resistence. Have it clearcoated. There is a clearcoat which stays slightly soft. It doesn't chip so easy. Ask your local friendly car painter about it, he'll probably be familiar with the product.

That Alfa recreation is just 🥰 ! Good luck with the sale, I can't see it hanging around. Sorry for the slight hijack.

😬 😬 😬

What a nice looking car! I don't think I've ever seen one in Old English White, and I can't believe how nice it looks.

Hi Steve. I was much like you, when it came to making up my mind. I would swing between Titan plate diff, and Quaife ATB diff. Ask 10 people, and you'll get 10 different opinions. The thing that made my mind up was a convesation with Richard Lee (Bless him ☹️) , as we where talking about our ridiculously overpowered Seven projects. He'd had a conversation with Russell Savory, I believe, and Russell was fitting the Quaife diffs into the Levante. A customer had specified a Titan diff, but when Russell tried it out in the car, the car was uncontrolable when the plate diff locked up completely. Apparently, he drove the car back, and swapped it straight back to a Quaife. What is fact, is, a Quaife ATB doesn't like kerb hopping. It is gentler, and wont lock as aggressively as a plate type diff. If my car was a track/hilclimb/sprint/competition/had less power car, I'd have gone for the Titan. As it'll be 99.9% road use, I chose the Quaife. I must add, Quaife where a pleasure to deal with. People from the Titan camp have said to me, I'm happy spinning what power I have away with the Quaife. All I can say to that is, I intend to set the car up correctly, and I have control over my right foot. Having owned lots of very quick motorcycles over the years, I'm no stranger to high power to weight ratio's. JMHO of course. Edited to add, the complete unit, in a brand new "Ford" case was £1,271.84p of which £62 + vat was delivery to here. (Compare that to the price of an open diff from CC ) Edited by - Mickrick on 18 Dec 2009 08:16:22

Nuvite II here You can buy it here

Oh, I thought CR500's where lighter. Well. you get my point. Thanks for teaching me something paul.

Mmmm. I've only ever run CR500's. I liked the feel, so never thought about anything else. I'm surprised actually, that you say it made such a difference. Nice to know. Cheers.

You'll not gain much by loosing anything from the baseline car weight. Reducing rotational inertia in the driveline parts however, has 15 times the benefit of loosing weight from the car. So get yourself a carbon propshaft. Chassis rotational inertia, wheels, tyres, brake rotors, has 3 times the benefit. So, Dymags (Although I hear they've gone bust?) CR500's, and some of RiF's HiSpec alloy brake rotors. Don't think you'll notice the difference though.

Well spotted! 😬 I have to admit though, I have no idea what was in my 2005 R300. But it was hilarious hooning fun! 😬 Anyone know what CC where fitting as an option at that time?

Hurry up! Only 11 left.

Not me Dave. I wouldn't want a Seven without one.

See ChitChat here Come on chaps, great Christmas pressie. Get those mags organized. We need to flog 50.

Where did you read, or hear that?

7WOTW, cheers, I spoke to Richard about it, that's how I managed to get the input shaft to bottom of the box dimension. YHM Mike.

Mike, I have to contact Sadev re, ratio's, as I'm also thinking about this box. It may let me get my motor an inch or so lower than if I go with the Drenth box. But in the meantime, is there any info about it on t'interweb? I can't find anything about it on their site.