Mickrick

Don't worry, a new bonnet is quite cheap. 😬

That's reeealy interesting! Love the picture of the Triumph Herald! 😬

Yes, I umm'd and arrr'd too long.

Andy, have sent you Blatmail.

taffyracer I think an SV will fit on a Minno Max, but as Roger says not a Minno.

From what I've read, it's the valving inside the damper, and I think this is what you're adjusting, with the adjustable dampers. Did you see the third spring "Thingy"? Looks very interesting. I've seen pictures of this on some single seaters. The nice thing about the Penske stuff, is it's owner servicable. I haven't personaly spoken to anyone there, but I'll be over in Jolly Old Blighty next month, and they're based where I used to live, so is the bloke on the boat next door coincidently. He's invited me to stay for the night, so we can have a few beers, so I may pop in and have a chat with them. He tells me he used them on his rally car, and they where top blokes. Although the fellow who built and setup the car was a chap called John Hook. Anyone heard of him? It looks like it's possible to spend 1K a corner! 😬

I've been chatting with a fellow who owns a boat next to the one I work on. He was a proffessional rally driver at one time. He gave me some advice. Buy the best you can afford, and with as many adjustments as you can get. I've been looking at some of the stuff Penske make. here

Get yourself Allan Staniforth's book "Race and rally car source book." Suspension seems to be more of an art than science. Bump rebound settings according to Mr. Staniforth are around 1:3. If your looking to set yours up, rather than design some, I would start at the middle settings then trial and error either way. On a road car, any setting will be a compromise, as the surfaces vary so much. With a track car, each circuit will need different settings. Only the stop watch will tell you if you have it right there. Whatever you do, keep notes. You can calculate spring rates for your car, but it's very involved. You'd have to start by weighing all your suspension parts, and subtracting that from the total weight, to give you sprung weight. Then there's a method of weighing your car, to get the % split front/rear. To quote a quote "The ratio theory doesm't work in real life. Only testing and driver feel give you a proper answer". Like I said, buy yourself Staniforth's book, and take it to bed with a glass of Scotch. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the replies So not as daft an idea as I thought.

here To make it easier. I'd be inclined to follow the manual, and don't worry about what someone else has been up to. Anyway, you can still fettle it with the diff in place.

They look like Yoko's? Not CR 500's. But I suppose if they are 205's it doesn't matter. I agree they don't look right. But the car's also narrow track? I don't think they'll look to bad on my car, as it's an SV with CSR wings.

Good point, but maybe the higher profile may cancel the tramlining back out? Lower profile tyres as I understand it, are more prone to tramlining. I suppose it's a case of suck it and see. If you've seen them fitted, then at least I'll not be alone in getting it wrong! 😬

Anyone fitted 205 55 R13 CR500's on the front? I was thinking of fitting these with 245 55 R13's on the rear. If so, how did you find them, with regards feel? Heavy steering maybe? My theory is, same diameter as the 195 45 R15's and 245 40 R15's, but with a slightly larger contact patch on the front, plus that nice progressive feel of 13 inch, and maybe the slightly larger contact patch at the front may reduce understeer a bit? Would the extra 10mm of tread width make the steering much heavier? Opinions on a postcard please. 😬

I thought it was all supposed to be part of the fun! Skinned knuckles, bloodblisters, black nails, gear oil in your hair (If you have any left) and weld spatter hissing down your ear, or melting your nylon socks inside your boots. All part of the fun. That's the trouble with the young 'uns today, they want everything to come easy.

😬 Got an answer on the angle thing. I'm still not 100% sure what they mean. I've ordered the 3.92:1 with the 23 degree pinion.

I'll be after one of those carbon ones. 🥰 Trying to buy the diff from Quaiffe at the moment, (Compete unit) but I'm told they only sell the 23 degree diff If I want a 15 degree, I'll have to go directly to CC..... I haven't a clue what the degrees refer to on an ATB type diff? Can't be ramp angles. Would it be driveshaft splines? Talking of which, what have you done about driveshafts on your monster?

Don't know what length propshaft I need yet.

Ah ha! Smashing! Cheers. I'll have to fit the diff twice then. Joy!

Is that the answer? Or, did I phrase that badly?

Why does the propshaft have to be put into the tunnel before fitting the diff? Surely it can be passed back through through the tunnel via the engine bay? Or is the flange too big?

A friend of mine has an old Massey Ferguson, which runs on petrol, but once it's warm, you open a valve to run it on parrafin. 😬

What do they run F1 cars on? I was offered 20ltrs of the stuff the other day, dated to 2010. Apparently it makes a tin top run very crisp!

I'm interested in thongs too. Billies where the muts when I were a Lad, but things have moved on, and there's more choice/knowlage now. For one thing the Caterham Billies have steel bodies, most of the aftermarket stuff, has alloy bodies. If you have the normal road going adjustables on your R500, they're probably only adjustable for ride hight (I stand to be corrected on this) not rebound or damping. If you do change the ride hight, it'll upset all your other suspension settings. Camber for one. IMO it's best to get as many adjustments as your wallet can bear. Of course with a road car, settings will always be a compromise, as there are so many variables in road surface. Discalimer; the above is all IMHO as I'm not an expert. As as someone pointed out to me on here, opinions are like 🙆🏻holes, everyone has one. 😬

anthonym, it's worth also looking at Penske dampers too.

😬