michaeljclark

Hmm, from a personal point of view (working as I do in IT), I'd use either Dell or Lenovo (for example we use Lenovo M91p in the office: i7 CPU, 8Gb RAM 160Gb SSD's - they are rapid and an excellent all round PC) Of course if you fancy a "generic" PC then perhaps Overclockers UK - who I use along with Scan for bits and bobs. I will venture into PC World, but only to pick stuff up that I have pre ordered Mike Edited by - michaeljclark on 5 May 2012 21:56:37

*wavey*bit wet to be out in the 7 What were you pointing at as you went past? Mike

That other person is me. Dated until Dec 2013. Still available should you decide to change your mind Mike

Steve - my belts have the older bright red buckle and not the newer style one on the CC site, but as Jez's and mine both FIA approved until 2013 hopefully they are the same. Got pics if needed Mike

I've got a drivers side set (see my original thread here) that you could match with Jez's Pax belts - just missing the bolts, but am fairly sure you could use the exisiting ones. Same offer (£70 incl del) as Jez's? Mike

I don't know if this thread is of any use but from the pics, you will see that my upgraded R400 rad (in my Sigma 150) is missing the third connector that runs to the T piece and then to the expansion tank and the block. Looking at the the build manual here if you go to page 69 you will see "17 - Water Bleed Hose" come from the back of the block and run to "18 - Small 'T' Piece" if you Rad doesnt have the connector shown to allow the hose to continue from the 'T' to the part shown as "19" (it's not labelled correctly) then simply take the hose "17" and connect it stright to the expansion bottle as CC did with mine when they "upgraded" it to the R400 rad. Hope that helps 🤔 Mike PS The build manual is a 26Mb download and it would be remiss of me if I didn't point that out so instead the page you're looking for is here Edited by - michaeljclark on 7 Apr 2012 23:17:20

Quoting Z3MCJez: Whatever the BEST solution, you should be able to get a warranty replacement. They may upgrade you to an R400 one, for a payment of the difference. Jez I got CC to do exactly this 2 weeks after the Memorial Blat. Mike

So I guess that means that the new parts are fitted and working OK then Chris - YHM Mike Edited by - michaeljclark on 5 Apr 2012 17:29:50

Quoting Trippy7: So, next question is are there any recomendations of where in Kent or Sussex I could get this looked at? Richard Young (jj48 on Blatchat) runs Automotive Engineering in Uckfield, East Sussex Was over with him today with the 7 for a Service, MOT and Chat. Mike Edited by - michaeljclark on 31 Mar 2012 18:53:12

*thumbup*Glad I could help 😬 Mike

no worries 😬 Mike

I had this happen to my Sigma 150 and I had it replaced after the Memorial Blat by CC South after a chat. Hopefully the following should give you an idea of what the Duratec R400 Radiator system should look like in a Sigma 😳 The 1st Pic shows the tubing that comes FROM the engine block to the Expansion Tank as does the 2nd (but from a different perspective) , there WAS a 'T' piece that joined the self bleed system to the tube from the engine and then into the Expansion Tank (if you see what I mean) The 3rd Pic just shows the Expansion tank, with the tubes coming in and going out. IIRRC the large tube that sits bottom right in the pic (assuming that your viewing from the same angle took the picture at is not modified in any way. I can't remember off hand quite how they filled the system, but I do remember that they undid the bleed screw at the top of the R400 radiator filled the system, let it settle and then filled it again until coolant dribbled out the bleed screw hole and did the bleed screw up again - there was also something done with the heater, but I didn't pay attention to it (sorry). Hope that's of some help

Anyone?

Following an upgrade, I have for sale: 1 x Caterham Branded 4pt Quick Release Seat Belt in Black with Red Buckle that are LEFT HANDED - so ideal for the driver of a RHD 7/passenger on LHD 7 as the buckle goes over the tunnel top and NOT crashing into your side skin see here on the CC site. They are FIA Certified until 31 Dec 2013 and in very good condition having done (from new) less than 1600 miles (none on track) £90+PNP (or collection from SE London, City of London (nr Moorgate), North Kent or Kentish Weald meet) I also have 1 x 4pt Harness Seat Belt in Black see here which would be an ideal upgrade from the std Inertia belts. Make me an offer (they're well used but perfectly serviceable) + PNP / collection as above PLEASE NOTE: In both cases, I don't have the bolts etc to mount these with at the moment as I forgot to collect them, but when I swapped the driver's side from the 4pt std to 4pt Q/R last year I'm sure the same fixings are used. Fitting guide can be found on page 88 from here (note it's a 20Mb download) High Res pics available on request. Please register dibs etc here 1st. Mike

Yep - It's what I've got spare from some work they did for me 2 years ago It's labelled "G30 Extreme" Mike

Moved from ZV 3's to Toyo Proxes T1-R's Much better all around, especially when it gets wet! Mike

It they are the original wheels, they've done 32,000 miles over 5 years. But I agree that even 3 years is a bit poor. Mike

I thank you ❗ Mike

Having had the SV up on a ramp today, I noticed that the Anthracite "coating" on the inside edge of some of my wheels is looking "tired" Are they painted or Power Coated 🤔 Cheers Mike

According to the build manual I have for the Sigma, Fuse C=Instruments and is 7.5A The sensor will flash (green in my case) as the teeth pass it when the system is active and I think the gap on my Sigma 150 is around 1-1.5mm When I dearm the immobiliser my gauges all twitch very slightly as power is applied. Mike

Being an SV owner ❗, I have the 48 LED model (bigger is best ) from CBS wired in via the CC Loom, but I can't comment on how to do it without the loom Mike

Just changed the front indicators to LED's (from Seven Speed) It was getting dark when I did it, but they are brighter and being LED the light up times are faster. Be good to see the difference in daylight, but as I'm working the weekend it will have to wait. Mike

On my SV the power cable was cable tied to the top of the diff. Which would have been OK except that it's just out of reach with the boot floor out,its sitting under the bulkead panel between the boot/back of drivers seat, which makes it all but impossible to get to without removing a panel that you rivett into place once the hand brake etc is installed (having looked in the build manual) So I gave up and ran another length of cable that is now (after a little help) switched via the ignition, down the transmission tunnel and it pops out by the drivers seat. Mike

I only actually need one, as I already have a left handed one for the drivers side (which I got by chance a while ago), but was happy to purchase a matching "pair" (as I could then sell my exisiting drivers one as it's still (IIRC) got FIA approval. However in the interests of not mucking everyone about, I'll pass. Mav, I think it's a matter of undoing the buckle and swapping it about. Mike Edited by - michaeljclark on 21 Jan 2012 21:13:09

Thank you! Mike