michaeljclark

I had an issue on the way back from the IOM with my Sigma 150, with the help of some fellow 7'ers it was decided that the relay had worked it's way loose or had muck on the contacts on the terminals - once it was removed and confirmed to be working in another 7, all was well again. I'd quite like a fan mod, so I have more control, but as Jason and SKC point out, the sensor is the ECU, so not sure of the best route to "do" the mod (other than fused wire from battery to a switch and then off to the fan - which seems altogether too simple ❗) Mike

I've got the same switch setup as IanB

Quoting ChrisC: Is that "document" in electronic form by any chance? and if yes can you send it to me? It is and I just have 😬 Look out for an email from my blatchat username @ hotmail.com Cheers Mike

The correct speedo setting for 205/55R13 85V CR500's (according to the document I have) is: 039558 Using the correct setting (from same document) for my 195/45R15 78V lead to a 10% under read (according to 2 GPS units) across the whole speed range (10-70 MPH officer), so I upped my settings by about 9% (just to keep the speedo slight under what the GPS said. Mike

According to the manual for my TK3301 channel 7 table 7 is 446.08125 and tone 7 is 85.4 Mike Edited for rubbish copy/paste skills Edited by - michaeljclark on 10 Jun 2013 22:01:43

When CCS replaced the Std (one that everyone hates) Rad with R400 Ali one on my Sigma based 7, their method was to: * open the heater (as previosuly mentioned) * unscrew the bolt in the top of the new Rad (as it doesn't have the bleed valve) to allow air to escape back to the expansion tank. * Fill Now the unconvential bit was: When they thought they'd got pretty much all the coolant in, to ensure there was no air in the rad, they cleaned the screw threads around the top of the expansion tank, and then one fo them put their mouth over the top and blew whilst the other one waited for the coolant to jet out the top of the rad - as soon as it did he put the bolt back in. They then ran the engine and topped the coolant up once the air came out into the expansion tank. They must have filled and bled the system in about 5 mins and then ran it up to temp to ensure the fan cut in and out. Cheers Mike

BM on way! Edited by - michaeljclark on 28 May 2013 09:25:55

I've been told that last weeks Autosport contained an "Thanks Marshal" sticker (SWMBO got me a copy but its minus the sticker and I haven't found any other copies locally) If anyone still has their sticker and would be prepared to pop it in the post to me I'd be most grateful - have recently become a wearer of an orange jump suit and it would look good on the back of my kit trolley! Now recovering after a long weekend at Brands Thanks Mike

When I first joined BC, there was a thread that I found (here) in Nov '09 about a fellow BC member who had made 40LED conversion boards for the std light clusters, that Johnty was very about Suprised that CC or one of the other suppliers of 7 type stuff haven't taken up the challenge, as I would have thought they receive a deluge of orders, I guess the "E" marked certification is most likely the issue? Mike

If you look @ the 2nd post here I posted up a PIC taken in bright day light once I'd fitted some mirrors into the rear clusters. (The image in my post will take a while to appear as it's hosted on some kit @ home) I've since upgraded to some LED's (these) and there is an improvement over std bulbs+mirrors Mike Edited for clarity! Edited by - michaeljclark on 9 May 2013 12:25:11

Cheers Croc

A timely thread, I'm thinking about an external mic for my GoPro Hero2, any recommendations for a make/model of external pic to purchase? Thanks Mike

Whilst you're looking at SM25T's suggestion, assuming you have the wheel off, check the wiring from the speedo sensor that runs along the chassis from the sensor until it hits a plug. On our way up to the IOM last year, mind did similar to yours, then I had the misfortune of a brake down. The wiring was damaged (I'd say something had chewed it) in 3 places and also damaged under a zip tie that was holding the wire to the chassis - the damaged wiring blew the instrument gauge fuse, which caused the ECU to shut everything down Mike

Silly question: Does comms port mean Serial port or USB? Serial I've not got, USB I can possibly assit with, thou I'd image the batteries will be very . Will you be able to find a copy of Windows to put on? I might be able to find an XP CD to load. I'm WightBlatting this weekend, so will have to have a look on Tuesday if thats of any use 🤔 Mike

I can I suggest that you check the fuse for the Dash Instruments - certaily for my Sigma Powered 7 (I know your's is a K series), when the fuse blew for the dash whilst we were on the IOM, the ECU could no longer "see" one of the instruments it was connected to and shut down either the fuel pump or the injectors (I can't remember which) The give away on my 7 was that when I unimmobilised the car, whilst the flashing red immobiliser light went off, the speedo and tacho needles didn't do their usual little "jiggle" that they always do. New instrument fuse = jiggling dials = running engine! (It took a trip on a low loader and the removal of the rear wheel to discover the frayed wires on the speedo sensor cable that blew fuse in the 1st palce)

Thanks both

Being quite(!) tall, even with lowered floors, I'm in need of a taller Roll Bar to eventually get myself on a track day (or even for general safety if the unthinkable happens 😳), the existing one is the boggo std version. Does such a thing exist "off the shelf"? CC don't seem to have anything on their web site, which I guess means a custom job? If that's the case who's best to speak to? A seach of BC brings up SafteyDevices & Caged, but their web sites doesn't produce much in the way of stuff for 7's (or am I not looking hard enough 🤔) Thanks Mike

Quoting Stationary M25 Traveller: Sounds like the salesman is TB to me !! (Talking B0ll0cks!!) Wot he said Quoting classic1952: My 2009 Sigma rev counter is rock steady at tickover. Oil pressure is virtually instant, even without any throttle on start up. Ditto

Excellent What was the issue 🤔 Mike

On my Sigma engined car, I wait for the immobiliser light to start flashing (thus meaning its armed) and then remove the master switch. If you remove the master switch before its started flashing, the immobiliser "remembers" it's previous state and so when you put the master key back in its still in an "unlocked" state still start the engine (if you see what I mean)!!!! Mike

Quoting Belper Cat: Think there are quite a lot of these being driven around after blanking off with a piece of aluminium.. Maybe a bit of 7 up tin 😬 might do the trick? I know that on my old "Euro 3" spec TDCi in my old X-Type this was possible, but I believe in that the Euro 4/5 spec engines need a 7mm hole drilled in the blanking plate to avoid upsetting the onboard computer. BTW PaulB - is it deffo the EGR that's gone? - I had mine replaced by a Jag main stealer only to find it wasn't the EGR that had had gone - it was the wiring loom that controlled it! Mike

I think you mean Heat Shrink, can be got from: here Mike Edited by - michaeljclark on 9 Mar 2013 15:16:04

Thanks all We're going for a test drive Saturday Mike

Thanks Am in 2 minds about this. The dealership (not a VW one) are letting me know about the Service History on it - Further reading suggests that the cam belt should be done @ 40k miles/4 years and as it's @ 38k and 5 years old I'm going to be interested to see: (a) If it was changed last year (b) if not, if they'll do it as part of the purchase price. Ho hum Mike

SWMBO would like her own car as she finds the S-Max a little large She's always liked VW as that'a what her folks have always had, so she found a 2007 1.6 FSI Auto at a dealer and off we went. I thought I'd do a little research on them and it would seem that the engines suffer from carbon build ups and unreliable, the TSI supposed to be a better engine Can the POBC offer any insights? Thanks Mike