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virden

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Everything posted by virden

  1. I think a silencer check is due, I have a Super Sprint with a 4:1 exhaust and from the driver's seat it is the carbs which make the most noise
  2. Did you run the engine for any length of time? Sometimes they clear when they get warm, mine does, but it's a X/F!
  3. I have a 96 X/F with twin 40 DCOE 151 carbs, fitted with black plastic floats. With the tops are taken off and then held vertically, what please should be the horizontal gap between the floats and the top? Should this be measured with the gasket in place? Thanks
  4. As a cheaper alternative to the oil sucker, I overfill my live axle via the air vent using a large calibrated syringe I acquired from my local vet for just 80p
  5. Just a thought : have you checked the bushes in the trailing arms?
  6. Having clouted the bottom of my silencer on many occasions I have found that Jubilee clips can also be used to hold in place a discrete rubbing plate at the noise end of the box.
  7. Well done Stijn, it was a failed capacity
  8. I have a Wolf Sioux compressor which has worked well until now, it will not start, when I pull the in/out kill switch, instead of starting I get a steady electric humming noise. The rotor is free to move, and the pump turns over easily by hand so it has not seized. Suggestions please.
  9. I have a 96 car, there is a combined headlight/ indicator and wing support bracket at the front, which also houses the cable for the repeater indicator. It is held on the chassis by two bolts closing a clamp, and is removable, which is important because you have to glue the wing to the bracket. The two main bolts are in the middle and towards the end of the wing, then there are the smaller bolts which screw into the chassis tube. Redline can source the wings, but you may have to wait as they get them made to order. You will also require some sort of beading to close the joint. PS you glue the wing in situ, once you are happy with the fit.
  10. Bearings appear to be OK, the " Goo" quite firm, thats why i thought it might be windings glue.
  11. I have found a sticky black tar like substance on the lower bracket casting of the alternator where it bolts to the block ('96 XF). There are also dried droplets below it on the cable to the block. At first I thought it was tar, but there is no evidence of stone in it and anyway how would it attach itself to the rearward face of the casting? Is it possible that some of the alternator windings glue had melted out?
  12. My beloved is up on stands in a cosy Carcoon, however the battery is disconnected, I am now wondering if I should have left it connected, on trickle charge, to resist any corrosion from unseen grot?
  13. I remounted mine on top of the passenger footwell and have found that above half full it acts as an excellent G-force meter, water splashing through the LH bonnet louvres on to the screen when I really hang one on through the bends 😬 😬
  14. Crumpy, call Red Line, I have a 96 car and Mick was able to supply me with "track day" springs which improved the car no end.
  15. Nigel, I would have thought drain all fluids and allow the galleries to dry, drain sump, and if possible remove and wipe bottom of pan to clear any sludge, squirt loads of preserving fluid into cylinders and then hermetically wrap the whole lump in industrial grade cling film. I have known some people to also loosen the rocker assembly to allow the valves to become fully closed, if so a squirt of oil down each port.
  16. virden

    engine fire

    I was travelling at 60mph when a bango coupling loosen on my front Weber. 😳 First I got a spray of fuel on the windscreen, then it caught. I killed engine, emergency stop, followed by rapid exit, then grabbed the 2kg powder extinguisher i had mounted on floor in front of the passenget seat. Lots of squirts through looves and the fire was killed. Damage ? A few wires, new fuel line and a vintage crackled paint finish to the first set of looves. Luckly I had a separate kill switch fitted, had I depended on the ignition key to kill the engine, the damage could have been so much worse......locked steering 😳
  17. Numpty Question: I am in the process of laying up my S3 X/F for the winter and am proposing sitting it on axle stands for the next five months. The stands will be placed as per the manual, but I am wondering if such a long period supported thus will have any distorting effect on the chassis cross members?
  18. I have a 4:1 manifold bolted to a cast iron head by means of Allen bolts, the recesses in which have become rounded. Will somebody please tell me: 1. Their size/ thread 2. The torque setting. 3. Where I can obtain new ones Thanks
  19. Check that your throttles are actually closing. I once had starting problems and found that the nipple at the top of the accelerater cable had popped out and this had caused the butterflies to remain open, causing far too much fuel to flow on start. Also check HT leads for any shorting out If all else fails an Ether spary from Halfords might help.
  20. Can some please tell me the thickness of the main square and round tubes and the weight of the bare frame........ pub quiz questions
  21. Roger, Thats the one. Thanks for clarifying things, its been 40+ years since I did Mechanics so i had obviously fogotten the principles
  22. Numpty question: If I use an extension bar beteeen the wrench and the socket does that increase the leverage and therefore understate the true torque applied? If so is there a constant to be applied to the reading?
  23. Check some Allan keys as well, some of the bolts are either poorly made or very odd sizes
  24. I fixed the rotating trumpets (No.s 3&4) by tightening the locking screws. Curiously both wee covered in light grey soot. Is it possible the noise I am hearing is a misfire through the carb? I shall check the tappet gaps. A compression test will tell me the state of the rings?
  25. Have sorted the rotating trumpets (no.s 3&4), by tightening the locking screws. curiouslu both were blackened as if by fire. Is it possible the noise I am hearing is a back fire ito the carb? I shall check the tappets to ensure all gaps are correct, and then I guess a compression test for the rings?
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