virden
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Everything posted by virden
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Hi Jez, I will definitely get it tracked etc, once I have repaired it. On close inspection the only things I can see as being out are the front arm of the wishbone and the stub axle it fits on to.- how do I re align that, hammer? It is imperial by the way, but thanks for the offer.
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Thanks for your replies, new one to be ordered. Steering arms OK . Only other damage I can find is to the forward facing stub axle welded to the front of the chassis on to which the front arm of the WB is attached. Where the small bolt screws in. This appears to facing kerbwards by c.5 degrees. I assume the normal location is straight ahead, so suggestions please on how to correct the bend. The axle tube is not bent, and using a magnifying glass I cannot see any cracks on the weld.
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Have just had a through the hedge experience. Car was drivable afterwards with just damage to wings and NS lower wishbone. On placing ruler against the front arm of WB it shows a bow of about 5mm in the middle. Questions: 1. Straighten in a press or replace? 2. What other tell-tales shuld I look for to ensure no welds have cracked/brackets bent?
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S3 in car park at Doune Hill Climb yesterday
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AO21R's on my SuperSprint, excent dry grip with controllable slides when you want them, and importantly in this part of the world, they are good in the wet *thumbup*
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A useful test to determine if the engine is sucking in air because the carbs are too loose, is to have the car tick over at warm idle, then use a watering can to gently pour water over rubber rings, if the revs drop you are drawing air. Tighten nuts by a quarter turn.
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Way back in my Mini days we used to balance the weight of these as well as the rotating bits, and used the emery paper longitudinally., I guess a Clive Tricky manual will give us the reasoning behind it all?
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As a matter of interest is there a minimum legal size specied for mirror lenses?
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Richard, most certainly not, if there is one thing we can grow up here it is native seafood, though I do sport chinny myself,
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Tbird, did that, both tyres same height. Longitudinal fixing same both sides. On viewing from the nose back the LHS wing has a more upswept profile to its outter edge.
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Nope wheels and tyres same size/make. Car is 1996, but no evidence of it ever having been damaged. Just poor quality moulds?
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The clearance between the tyres and wings on my S3 is 20mm higher on the LHS than the RHS. A spirit level shows the chassis to be horizontal side to side, ditto the headlights and the indicators. The wings are fitted to the stays in precisely the same way. The outer tips of the wing stays are the same height above the ground. So is it simply a case of each wing being a different shape as well as handed?
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If you have been living happily with std brakes then Mintex 1144 willbe a noticeable and inexpensive improvement
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Five assorted sevens, hoods down, heading East in monsoon conditions. Thats the spirit!!
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Good point, now you have me wondering if they recycled the fluid!
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Found no leaks, or evidence of fluid bypassing master cylinder seals, so decided to bleed system, on second pump out came a load of black sludge, so I assume the garage did not replace the brake fluid, merely toped it up. Replaced all fluid and pedal is right up there...time will tell Thanks for your help.
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Thanks, wheels off it is.
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My 1996 Xflow with Ital axle has always had a hard pedal. Got into car after last blat 10 days ago (work/weather! ☹️) and found pedal need 3 pumps to get up to hard. Brakes appear to work as per normal, but did require a couple of pumps before applying. It is 350 miles since local garage fitted new seals to front pistons with new 1144s and new seals and shoes on rear. There is no sign of a leak on the wheels, although I have not yet removed the drums. Fluid level looks about right. Where should I look for the cause of the problem?
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Thanks Guys. Chris I have decided to properly measure the loss by taking oil levels via the (replaced) breather hole before and after a run. I do as some people have recommeneded over fill the axle. Do you suppose I may have over done it?
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I appear to have a significant leak from the front of the diff, on the seal around the input shaft. The petrol tank and the chassis tubes are coated in oil, and if I leave the car untouched for a week, an oil patch 5" wide collects on the garage floor. Should I be worried? There is still plenty of oil in the axle. The car has 18,000 miles on it What is involved in replacing the seal, i.e. can an amateur do it, or does it involve the use of specialist tools?
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Another possible cause is a slight rust/dirt inside the cable sleeve. Mine semi seized and forced the nipple on the end of the sleeve out of the holder on the Y bracket Disconnect and give cable a good clean, oil liberally (not with WD40, It hydroscopic) and refit. Finally use regularly!
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The battery in my 1996 Xflow was 4+ years old and when in the garage the car is kept more or less permanently attached to a trickle charger. It has never given any problem until today. I attempted to start but everything save warning lights was dead, not even indicators working. Found only 5 volts across the battery so bought a replacement. On fitting I left the earth lead until last. On offering it to the battery peg I note small sparks arching as the cable touches, and I think, I hear the click of a relay. For fear of causing damage I have not continued. Suggestions please on how to proceed and what to look for.
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Well done guys, we stripped down the calipers and found one seized, and two semi seized pistons. Amazing it stopped at all. As ever,thanks for your help
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I couldn't find one, so I made my own. A 9"x7" piece of 10mm ply, with high density packaging foam (from a PC delivery box) all covered with leather-look vinyl. It is secured by means of sunken round headed bolts protruding through the rear of the ply which hold some home made half round brackets. The trick bit is making a wooden spacer between the ply and the cross bar to ensure the whole thing is held steady. I can send you photos if you wish.
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I pushed the pots back using a pair of spanners. all seemed to go easily, but it was a sod of job to get the pads and the sticky backing in. The pads appeared no to go in straight and the pads schrunched up a bit. This suggests that the pistons were back at an angle?
