virden
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Everything posted by virden
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I fitted an oil pressure warning light, set at 20 psi, and then with a Volvo battery connected as additional grunt proceeded to a long (90sec +) churn. Eventually the light went out and the dial moved from zero into the red. I have repeated this several times with the same result, so am confident that whatever caused the problem has passed. Thanks as ever to every one for the support and advice. V I went to Santa Pod and my world changed forever.
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Thanks for all you replies. The sump is the same depth so I'm guessing that it is either a dry pump or a faulty pressure reader. I shall rig up a pressure light to see what happens before proceeding to fire it up. I went to Santa Pod and my world changed forever.
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I have been given conflicting advice, so your guidance please. I am bringing my C/F 1700 SS out of its winter hibernation, during which time I fitted a new (wet) sump pan to replace the old dented one. Having changed the oil and filter I have turned the engine over several times without plugs in to circulate the oil. The problem is that no oil pressure is registereing during this process. I have been told: A) not to worry because the starter motor is not strong enough to to get pressure up. B) worry because it means no oil is circulating. On checking the dip stick, oil has climbed up the stick during the process. Which statement is correct? I went to Santa Pod and my world changed forever.
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Charlie, For your manifold, give this outfit a try: www.classicfabs.co.uk They are based in Girvan, and build SS manifolds for the likes of Ecurie Ecosse and many classic cars. I went to Santa Pod and my world changed forever.
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Hi Milt, I keep my beast in a byre in Stranraer. We have high levels of condensation and no DPC in the floor. To over come this I purchased a Carcoon indoor bag - their smallest I think. It has proved to be excellent, I have had condensation running off the outside of the bag whilst the car has remained dry inside. I have even left the carpets in. The system comes with a built in battery charger. I recommend it.
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Peter, Stuart, Thanks for the advice. I think I'll do all the other jobs before getting around to this one!!
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I am having difficulty finding a spring compressor with lugs small enough to enable me to change the front springs on my S3. Can anyone recommend a supplier to me? Thanks
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Hi Stuart, I have just purchased an S3 footwell kit from Arch and have found another problem? On the plate which sides the gearbox I have noted that no "vertical " holes have been drilled at the rear of the box to allow it to be attached to the chassis rail. There are such holes on the other plate. Is this an ommission, or nor required? Cheers Virden
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Thanks All. I shall give Pro tech and Nitron a go and repot back. Keep the faith!
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Thanks for the advice guys. Together with direct emails, I have a 50:50 split in opinion. I shall do some more research before handing over my ever decreasing dosh. Incidentally both AVO and Gaz were coming in at the same price.
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Hi All, I am aiming to fix the sump grinding ground clearance on my 96 S3 live axle by replacing the SPAX coilovers with stiffer springs. Trawling through TechTalk I see mention of AVO and Gaz units. Both provide a variety of spring rates & adjustable shocks/platforms. Any recommendations as to which would be best for raod use? I and my passenger are heavy and the roads around here are very bumpy. Thanks
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Guys, Thanks for the advice, to answer you: M25: The car has the original spax coil overs on it, which are not adjustable. As they are only some 9000 miles old I am reluctant to change them, but am thinking of stiffening the settings and putting in another rubber bumb stop. I agree your point re clearance, but i think that will always be a problem especially as i have a weakness for flying over humpback bridges! Madmal: I shall email JW Johnjulie: Yeh, I am considering this, but still trying to work out whether I can drop the sump with the engine in situ. There appear to be two nuts at the back which are buried in the bellhousing. Thanks guys, keep the faith!
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Having put my 1996 1700 Super Sprint up on blocks for a winter tidy up, I have found that the sump has at some time received a severe bash which has left a 10mm groove going north/south and has been grinding on the road surface at the point where the sloping part of the sump meets the flat bottom (Hope that makes sense). There are odd drips of oil on the sump , but nothing to suggest that it is coming from the dent or rubbed area. I shall of course be stiffening the front shockers. Questions: 1) Is it safe to continue using this sump or has it been weakened? 2) Is it possible/advisable to weld rubbing strips on the pan? 3) Does any one manufacture a sump guard? Thanks
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Thanks Steve. The car has done less than 10,000 miles and spent long periods in storage so I guess it is possible that gaskets have shrunk. Lot sto look at . Thanks guys
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Thanks Nick. Plugs look good, but RR is a sensible suggestion, as it should show up any probs with the timing. My I have been putting off doing it because the nearest RR is some 100 miles away!
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I have recently acquired a 1996, factory built S3 1700 Super Sprint. The car is very low milage, is in excellent condition and original specification. It goes very well with expected performance, but on anything bar full throttle it back fires and blows back through the carbs(twin 40 DCOEs) When I stop as well as giving off a very strong smell of petrol, both air filters drip what looks like a mixture of black oil and petrol. Are the carbs set up too rich? ☹️
