virden
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Everything posted by virden
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Thanks Stu
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In offering up the new LHS wing to the body I find that only three of the bolt holes correspond. I have tried making a template from the remains of the old wing, but find that the flange on the new is much wider and a different radius. Does it make sense to take off the original RHS wing and offer up the the new one as the template, or where they one off fittings? Also as I have had some rivnuts pull out has anyone had success in using "Peel" headed bolts?
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AO21Rs on 13", with Live Axle :18psi *thumbup*
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Don't be tempted to check gear shift whilst engine is running! 😬
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Thanks Andy, I have taken note, though probably will not attempt it until March due not having a heated garage. Re jackingn the car up, it is stored with the wheels off. Axle stands at the front, supporting the chassis tubes at the junction with the crossmember, and a stack of 6" square wooden blocks under the chassis at the point where the A frame is bolted. Rock solid! Cheers
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Can the seal on the diff of an Ital axel be replaced with the axle in situ, or does the whole lot have to be disconnected/removed? Also, after how many miles should the oil that is left be replaced. Car is road use only
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Mike, talk to Redline re sourcing master cylinder. I was discussing same with them yesterday
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Richard, email me and I shall send one to you
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I found Marine Clean fantastic, it strips off all the grease and muck and doesn't leave its own coating like solvents do. You Must wear gloves when using it, it dries out skin! Same with POR 15, if you do not wear gloves people will know what you have been up to for weeks afterwards!. (See other threads) Once you have stripped everything off look for cracks and pitting on the smaller tubes, they are amazingly thin. Have fun!
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Mike, one of the best upgrades I have on mine is the "half wishbone " kit. It tightens up the steering and greatly reduces wandering especially under heavy cornering and braking. *thumbup*
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Hi Mike, welcome to ancient and venerable world of XF owners. I have 96 SS and the towing eye on mine is a crude ring located on the front RHS. Are you sure powder coating is the way to go? I have used POR 15 and it is both shiny and proven to be very chip resistant.
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Thanks all, one less job to do.
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I have an unmodified 1996 1700 SS with 19,000 miles on it, two thirds of which in my ownership. The manual says the timing should be 14 degrees and fuel 98 Octane Unleaded, so I assume the car has leaded valve seats. The car has been running well on a mix of 4 star /super fuel and does not appear to burn or leak (!) any oil , although it is difficult to tell, the exhaust pipe being very sooty. I am told that at 20,000 miles I should be thinking of replacing the valve seats due to excessive wear. Should I? Are there any external clues, or do I have to strip the head? The car has been used purely for road use.
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I built an electic powered jeep for my lad and learnt the hard way that his friends have no mechanical sympathy. Don't forget to fit a circuit breaker between the throttle and the motor, it will stop it being burnt out, as they sit, foot hard on the throttle, with the car firmly parked against an imovable object
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I have a 96 SS restricted to road use. I do not have a cooler, I use modern oils and have a proper mechanical pressure guage. I have never found any drop off in pressure following a thrash, even at tickover. So IMHO I think it unnecessary. two points come to mind, if it does not have a thermostate it will be delaying your oil reaching working temp. The other is if your system has not been flushed out since 91, the cooler is probably half full of gunge anyway.
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AMMO. Thanks for the reference, but at £950.00 new 😳 I think I shall have to save up for it!
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I dimly recall from my technical studies classes that there is a rule applied to establish the minimum lenght of bolt threaded into a nut to ensure it is tight. Is it something like :- threaded length should be equal to the diameter of the bolt plus one third turn?
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On a serious note if we do hurt ourselves we really should go to A&E. Some years ago my 13yr old son came home from school complaining of a sore neck after he had fallen badly whilst larking about. It got easier by night time so we sent him to bed with no second thoughts. Roll on five years, I arrrive at A&E to see him strapped to a BackBoard after coming off his bike. An X-ray had revealed a suspected fracture to No.4 Vertibrae. The next morning he was given the all clear....... the shadow on the X-ray was of an unknown healed fracture!!
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If you do leave the car standing on its wheels, it might be prudent to pump the tyres up to 30PSI. That should stop any permanent wrinkles forming. After you have done it don't forget to leave a note on your steering wheel to remind you.
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I took my Bilstein fronts to my local machine shop where they used their 200 ton press. As everone else says, take care when releasing tension, there is a shed load of potential energy stored in each compressed spring.
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Interesting topic. I got my local garage to replace the seals in everything bar the MC, also flushed out with new fluid. Previously firm pedal thereafter had a little bit of travel, but worked well, easily stopping from 100mph. Just 100 miles on from rebuild, I left the house noting that pedal seemed to go a little further before biting, drove 5 miles, had to do emergency stop only to find virtually nothing there, ...off into hedge. Tyre marks on road showed only two wheels barely locking. Extracted car (little damage) drove home with pedal seeming fine. Left car sitting for two weeks, got in again to find pedal went straaight to the floor. No signs of leaks or loss of fluid. Must be the MC
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Thanks guys
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Will some kind soul please give me the offical name/number/ supplier of the BRG green paint used on my 1996 S3. I was told it is "Moss Green" but am not so sure.
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A word of warning on wet sump dipsticks. It was only after a repairing the sump and carefully measuring the refill that I found the dipstick to be over reading by half a litre due to a bent supporting bracket!!
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Charles, thanks for this I was thinking along the same lines. I would also guess there may some degree of tolerance between centres as well. The steering arm is unmarked as does the upright, but I shall wash it in petrol which will show up any cracks. If it seems odd that the SA is untouched, it may be because the embankment dropped away very steeply into the field so I landed on top of the hedge rather than hit it head on. The unexplained thing is why only one wheel locked up under breaking. I did have a 14st passenger with me which may have affected the weight transfer.
