virden
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Everything posted by virden
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I have used one of these on my X/F for four years now, it sits above the gearbox so gets warm, and is kept on a trickle charge. The only time it has given any problems was April this year when the car was left out at night and became covered in frost, it just did not have the power to light here up. When I came back that afternoon, it started first turn.
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If you keep the tyres out of direct sunlight, and give them a good wash and dry before storage, all will be well..
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" proper tools" like a hammer and chisle or something a tad more sophisticated?
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My Beastie passed her MOT today with the advisory that there was play in the left Top Link on the front suspension. Question: can the "bolt" which attachs it to the Upright be easily replaced or is it better to buy a new Top Link ? Car is a '96 live axle.
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Having suffered numerous blown gaskets on no.2/3 manifold, I made up a pure copper version, but this too has failed after just two hundred miles. Although I had the manifold face ground true, I notice that after a while, when hot, there is a gap of approx 1.5mm at the top when all is torqued up. It would seem the sheer weight of the 4:1 system is pulling the top edge of the manifold away from the head. Thinking laterally I am wondering if I get the manifold face ground at an angle, i.e making the plate say 2mm thinner on the underside than it is on the top, this will cure the problem. Has anyone been done this route?
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A cheap way of putting oil in is to temporarily remove the nipples and then inject the oil by means of a large syringe. -50cc and above. Available for pence from your local vet. Messy but effective
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Over oil- fill via the breather and check for bearing play at the wheels.
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If using a powered device of any form to clear rust I would take great care, I found out after a battery acid leak, on older cars some of our chassis tubes are remarkably thin.
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Unless you are extremely skilful in sanding/ filing I would not attempt to smoththe surface. Rubbig out the sratch will mean you are lowering the surrounding area which will leave a dip in the surface. A liberal smear of gasket goo should prevent the scratches from leaking.
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I find that silicone gets everywhere, so to keep things neat, before gluing, I mark up the edge of the join where the pipes meet the collector and put masking tape around the "male" tube ends at that point. That way you can use a Stanley knife to neatly cut off the excess that will occur when you mate the pipes to the collector.
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I had completed a tame 30 mile blat in my XF with no problems, all guages showing normal. Car was switched off and some twenty minutes later I went out to find water all over the garage floor. Lifting bonnet showed the top rad hose (5 yrs/ 12k miles old) had split from end to end and liberally spayed the engine bay. Question: is this a "normal" sh** happens failure, or does it suggest a head gasket has failed? Plugs, oil and exhaust pipe are all normal colour. What else should I be checking?
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Remember to ensure that you have bleed all of the air from the system. Some suggest raising the front during filling process.
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Nigel, If I used a rubber exhaust bobbin as used to attach the rear bracket, would this not mitigate the worst of the vibration?
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SM25, I have heard that there may be a bolt hole in chassis rail but do not know where it is. My car is a 96 S3 live axle,built by Arch
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Thanks all, the head is true and I had the flange planed, so not a gap issue. I am wondering if it is a case of the shear weight of the 4:1 and silencer which is providing a leverage to flange forcing the bottom in an dthe top out. It is always the top which blows, and I have tried several different types of gasket...but never double.
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Will some kind soul please tell me the torque setting for the Allan bolts that attach the manifold to a cast iron head. Why?... cos I have blown yet another middle gasket..Thye only seem to last 1000 miles. Thanks
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Attempted to raise the Beastie from it hibernation, but the Starter motor will not turn, just gives a click each time I press the start button. Battery shows 12.4V across the terminals.. Have taken motor off and find solonoid moves freely by hand as does bendix gear, BUT the motor is very stiff to turn by hand, i.e fingers against the bendix. Tried running it on bench, but just clicks. Working when the car was put away fo rthe winter, the motor is the original 1996 unit with 20k miles under a 4:1 manifold. Suggestions please
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I lost mine too, on a 96XF, I have replaced it with a blue screw cap from a plastic milk carton as sold in Tesco's etc. has stayed put for past three seasons.
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Terry, Is it possible that the flow of fuel to the carbs is so slow, that once you have pumped the throttle a few times you have in the process emptied your float chambers? Place one of the bango connections into a jar and turn the engine on the starter the jar should fill very rapidly. Disconnect the coil before doing this! Another but remote possibility is that the Orings between the carbs and the manifold are leakig big time. Good luck
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I have doubled my boot floor and built into the lower floor a large shallow tray into which I place tools etc which remain hidden under the top floor. Depending upon model you should have a gap of abour 2.5 -3" into which the tray will hang. I think I had a photo of it in LF about five years ago.
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Have you removed the immobiliser key once the light has gone out?
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Ordered my 185/70/13 from http://www.wheelsaround.com/ on Thursday and received them on Friday. Excellent service*clap*, They still have some in stock
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George Polley still has some 205/60/13 in stock http://www.wheelsaround.com/ have some E marked185/70/13 in stock
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SWMBO's buggy was given two advisories at its MOT because two tyres were deemed to have only 2mm of tread..... when measured across the "wear indicator blocks" between the treads. Surely the measurement should be made on the full depth of the tread?
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Thanks all, it worked a treat, and with surprisingly little heat required.
