virden

Plus: A roll of Tank tape and in my case, a cheap pair of magnifying specs As for the jack, I carry that in a tool box I built and bolted on top of my heater, inelegant I admit, but it carries everything I require for long trips, including spares. Alternatively there is a three inch gap between the bottom of the boot floor and the fuel tank, I also built a "hidden" tray which occupies that space. There were pics of both in a Low Flying of several years ago.

I had a similar problem with my wet sump X/F, and got around it by getting my local engineer to weld a 4mm steel plate on the forward facing slope and bottom of my sump. I also changed to Redline supplied track day springs which stiffed the front. The combination has worked a treat. You have a beautiful country to blat in, although I do find your speed limits frustrating!

Hanns I have found these guys very useful : http://www.powertrackbrakes.co.uk/ Good luck

Elie Surely in the case of spinning the electronics would only brake the front (driving) wheels. Thinking about it more the warning lights seldom come on, only doing so when there is significant slipping.

HI Jonathan and Robert "The discs are identical. Yep, all replaced at the same time The pads are identical. Yes, replaced with the discs The retardation on test rollers is vey similar (even though you've already thought about that on the road). Yes, passed its MOT with no referrals The wheels are running freely both hot and cold. Seemed to be OK when the car was on the ramp, not tried that when hot, but a "hand test sugggests that none of the wheels are running hot. There's anything from the ABS or similar on the diagnostic analyser. Do not know whether this was checked at Service/MOT It's mentioned in any Vauxhall or Opel forum. No idea, this the only forum I use "I would rather think it would be the stability control that caused this" Could be, I don't normally notice it, but it does not seem to like spirited driving over a tight serious of bends and dips, the back can get seriously out of shape. Answer : slow down!!

My Vauxhall Insignia, has just returned from its second major service with the news that as per the first, the front and rear NS brake pads have worn much more than the OS pads. The car drives well and I have no issues with braking or handling so what is the cause? We have a lot of muddy surface water on the edges of the roads up here, could it be grit from going through these that causes the extra wear?

The gasket on my X/F water pump failed so bought a new one, it is made of paper should I apply gasket goo to both surfaces? If so what is recommended?

Before fitting an oil catch tank (C/T) I was not aware of any oil fumes, now the cockpit is full of them even at speed. When fitting the C/T, it sits just above the gearbox top cover, I also installed a crankcase breather which vents into it rather than the rocker box. The C/T is about 220mm tall meaning there is no place on the engine "shelf" to fit it, can I place it on the lower diagonal below the carbs? I seem to recall a comment that all C/Ts had to be above the crankshaft centre line? I did consider piping the breather from the C/T to exit under the car, but thought this might be asking for trouble?

15.30, 6th July, dark metallic blue S3, black wheels and hood up

I think Nick may have identified it, it is possible that your flexible gaskets are too loose, and therfore sucking in air at higher revs. Try the water can test: hold the accelerator to keep revs at say 2500 then get someone to use a watercan to pour water over your flexible O rings, if the revs drop you are leaking so tighten up the nuts. Good luck

a X/F running on 13" wheels, I have two almost new AO21s and two requiring replacement. I realise I must eventually buy a full set, but would much prefer to get the wear out my front two 21s first. Is it OK and road legal to have different brands front and rear or would doing so screw the handling/ road holding?

1700 Super Sprint with new breather set up: I have breather pipes from the lower block and top of the rocker box draining into a catch tank on top of the gearbox. I am finding that on idle I can see vapour escaping from the tank air filter and over the course of 500 miles the tank accumulates almost half a pint of oil, is this normal? It is clean oil, no water or foam apparent.

Thank you Roger... I don't suppose you have time to write the definite book on living with a X/F?!

From what I can observe, only one accelerator jet is delivering fuel when the throttle is depressed.

My X/F will not start and having checked that it is getting sparks I am looking at fuel. The supply to the carbs is strong, but when I look down the trumpets it seems very little is being squirted into the venturi, when I open the throttles. I have taken the top covers off to check the floats and inlet valves and have noticed that when I open the throttles the neither of the pump rods move.... should they?

I put the battery on a long period of charge and observed the amount of bubbles rising to the surface of each cell, two barely gave off any gas, so have assumed the thing is duff and have ordered a Banner.

Hi Jonathan, By "starting" I meant cranking, voltage on initial cranking drops rapidly to 7.8v. The plugs are sparking, the fuel is coming through, but she has not started. All relevant connectors undone cleaned and re- tightened. I am using a Clarkes Jump Start 900, which works on other cars.

Trying to start X/F after 6 mths SORN, battery (a Yuasa) fluids OK and it had been given a days charging every month during lay off. Shows 12.7V on starting, but only has energy for 2 starting attempts at normal turnover speed, then rapidly slows to stop after a further 5 goes. Voltage at end 12.4v. Even with aid of a Clarks Quick Starter there is insufficient power for more than three normal speed start attempts. Recharged battery and then left lights on full beam for five mins, voltage did not drop. Is it a duff battery or a short somewhere?

Leaving town heading towards Leswalt.........Orange, no screen or aero, driver wearing white full face helmet.

So all A frames are supposed to be dead straight? My 96 X/F with Ital axle has had a similar curve in its A frame since I bought at 9K miles, it now has 26K on it and the curve is just the same, tyre wear is even and it has passed all its MOTs first time. Is the advice to replace it or leave things alone?

Jonny, Now the heater is down, you may find it useful to fit a bleed valve midway along the top heater hose, such means I no longerhav eto jack up the front of my X/F when refilling the coolant.

Like Martin I have two new on the front and two MOT doubtfuls on the back, and I am not sure it is safe to mix with another brand, so it looks like a complete new set? But of what given my location......? Do the new AO21s actually bear the the legend "Not for Highway use"? er, just enquiring*whistle*

Anyone know where I can the above for My X/F super sprint ? Am looking for the yellow badge

RobO If Mort will give permission I would very much like "In a Seven no one hears you scream"

Polished aluminum with dark blue clams, parked on the main road.