virden
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Everything posted by virden
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Thanks All, I think I have found a solution with Redline....... of course I should have gone to them first and avoided this hassle.
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I have a 1996 S3 1700x/f Super Sprint on 13" wheels which had twin piston (one per side) calipers on Triumph uprights, these have been lost by a 3rd party*curse* so I am seeking replacements, either same again or upgrades. Can someone please tell me : A) what car the originals came from B) where I might source same again C) where I might find sensibly priced replacements Thanks
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Don't forget to balance the floats, easily done by using a drill bit of correct diameter to set the float arm.
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Andy, I am using the breather cap with outlet for the pipe going to the catch tank, the flange connector is for the feed from the block. The problem I have found with plumbing fittings is that they have nut heads on the inside which will leave precious little clearance for the push rods. I am looking for something looking like atop hat which can be locked by a nut on the outside.
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I am going to plumb a crankcase breather into the side of my cast ally rocker box, will someone please point me towards a supplier. I have looked at the DIY stores, and find their tank connectors to protrude too much on the inside. Thanks
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A big*thumb_up* to Paul at PowerTrack, who specialise in supplying brakes and clutch parts for long extinct vehicles. He supplied me at reasonable price with brand new Ital brake cylinders and fitting kits for my X/F which arrived a day after placing the order. Brilliant
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Kent crossflow - valve spring compressor - head in place
virden replied to brianmurray325hotmail.com's topic in TechTalk
If your seals need replacing would it not be a good idea to take the head off to give the valve seats a light lap and to check your bores? Did you take a compression test? -
A numpty question perhaps, but are there any external signs that one's chassis might be rusting from the inside? Mine is a 96 S3 with flaky powder coating
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After how many miles should these (On twin 40's) be replaced? After 24k miles, although cleaned a couple of times, mine are now black in colour and a lot of dark oil has accumulated on the back of the cover plates.
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As a precaution I took the head off my X/F and fortunately all is well, so a new gasket is all that is required. The car is SORNed and up on wood blocks so I shall not restart it for many months. Numpty Q: Will it make any difference if I torque up the head now but leave the engine unrun for months, or is it better practice to rebuild and then immediately run it?
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Oops that should have read "Succinct"!
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Thanks Roger , as succunt as ever..... I don't suppose you would care to write a book on care of the Cross Flow, I think a few of here would buy it!
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Hi Elie, The problem as I perceive it is one of space, there appears to be no way of routing the crankcase breather into the side of the rocker cover because the inlet manifold, distributor and heater take up the space. I cannot route into the front of it because the water "tower " is there. I think it impractical to go into the side above the exhaust manifold(?), so that leaves the rear. This can be done but it would be directly below the filler cap which is where the pipe to the catch tank is connected, so the oil from the crankcase will simply blow straight out into it? A more simple solution would seem to be to vent the crankcase directly into the catch tank, but i am under the impression that a heck of alot of oil get thrown out from it. Or am I mistaken in this assumption?
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I intend to fit a crankcase breather my 1700SS as per Roger King's recommendations, with a pipe from the filler cap to a catch tank. The trouble is I have an old style flat heater fitted and cannot see where there is space to plumb the pipe into the side of the rocker box. If I fit it at the very back below the filler cap is there a probability of excess oil blowing straight out into the tank? Does anyone have a photo of a successfully fitted breather set up? Thanks
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I have a '96 SS and according to the build manual, the cam is a "Caterham BCD, high lift, short duration" version.
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I second the concerns over harbouring water, I have had bare floors for over seven years with no slips. The other day I used an air line on the dry floor to clear out any dirt along the joint with the chassis and was horrified to find water hiding in seam.
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I agree with changing springs if yours are stil the originals, it is surprising how they soften over time. Are you reall inflating to 28psi for road use?
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I am intending refitting the original temp gauge in my 96 X/F Super Sprint. Will some kind soul please tell me which coloured wires and in what order, fit onto the bayonets numbered 1-3 on the back of the gauge. Thanks
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A radiator hose on my X/F burst the other day, and after replacing it I noticed the radiator gently steaming from a section of the core. I dried it out with compressed air and also left it for a couple of days, but once the rad gets hot a slight wisp of steam is visble. The car is othewise behaving normally. The rad is a beautiful aluminium example supplied by Redline some 6 yrs ago, and even when left for over 24hrs there are no discernable leaks of water, so it must be a hairline crack, only apparant when the system is pressurised so what is my best course of action, some rad weld or is taking it to a specialist OTT?
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During a recent deluge one of my wipers blades became partially detached from the end of its arm and has left an arc inscribed on the windscreen, I think it is a combination of black paint and actual surface scoring of the glass. I have failed to remove the mark with a proprietary glass cleaner, so any suggestions please. I think it will be a potential MOT failure if I leave as is.
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I had a similar problem which turned out to be a very small aerosol leak from the end of the hose attache dto the pump. I only spotted it after I had put in a strong solution of antifreeze, after which a fine white stain was evident on the block behind the pipe.
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I am not qulaified to commment on location, but it strikes me that the nearer to the tank you locate it, the less length of pipe runs yu will require, and that if you have low pressure in and high pressure out, you want to make sure the volume output of both pumps is compatible.
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I'm curious why do you need ten of them?
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1996 X/: This season my car has suffered from an intermittent brake problem: occasionally when I apply the brakes- either hard or soft the car will want to dive the the right, at the next braking point the car will behave perfectly. The pads are Mintex and 4000mile old, th edisc pistons were serviced at the same time, The car sailed through it MOT. Suggestions?
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I wrap the nut thread with plumbers tape, or a couple of layers of cling film has also worked.
