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virden

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Everything posted by virden

  1. virden
    On mine it is only the front rubber seal that leaked, I refitted it with some Halfords supplied gasket goo and all has been well. Used cork gaskets for the long sides, I think without goo. As I live in an an area with very poor roads, whilst the sump was off I got the local engineer to weld a 4mm plate to the front slope and bottom, from the gooves worn into it I am convinced doing so has saved me from disaster.
  2. virden
    Thanks all, I am off on hols for a week, but have cleaned everything as best I can and topped up the oil, so on return should be able to determine where the leak is. Haynes manual in post
  3. virden
    My 1996 Super Sprint with ford four speed box and live axle, has developed a leak around the end of box, so I assume it is the seal on the output shaft? 1. Is it an engine out job to replace? 2. Is replacement of the seal an amateur DIY job? Having taken the top plate off the tunnel I can see the leak has been going on for some time, from the oil spray pattern I am now convinced that the leak has come from the front of the box. Does the speedo drive leak, if so is it easy to fix? Car has done 26,000 miles
  4. virden
    Hi all, Apologies for late response to your suggestions, had BT broadband problems, AGAIN!. The car was up on the ramps for its MOT (passed) where we had a good look at the engine and gearbox mounts all of which are OK Jonathan, I haven't worked up a methodology for measuring the difference between hot and cold which does involve burnt fingers, my welding gloves being too stiff to hold a tape, but shall think on it. A bad photo, but you can just make out the melted aluminum sticking to the primary. and the skin has a melted edge.
  5. virden
    Hi Tony, 2&3 are joined and solid, no sign of leakage along the length of the pipes, and the engine appearing to be solidly locate all very odd.
  6. virden
    Thanks guys, I have checked both mounts visually and could not see anything odd, I then held and shook the rocker box vigorously resulting in the whole car shaking but the engine did not appear to move separately nor where there any clonking noises from broken bits. How else do I check the mounts?
  7. virden
    My 1996 X/F left the factory fitted with a 4:1 exhaust, which due to its constant blowing of the gasket for ports 2&3 has been on and off many times without a hitch, the four pipes slotting through the hole in the body skin without difficulty. This year due to my relocating the catch tank to that side I wrapped the pipes in heat proof tape and again refitted the system without a hitch, the pipes clearing the body hole by about 5mm as per usual. I have since noticed a curved groove melted into the body skin just above the chassis rail and melted aluminium on no.3 pipe, but the clearance, when observed cold, is still there. So does this mean wrapping the pipes, thus keeping them out of a cooling air stream has caused them to expand and contract length wise more than before?
  8. virden
    Have been informed by the Tester, that just one dash light, either the hazard switch or the green Indicator light flashing in sync when the hazards are on is acceptable
  9. virden
    My Tester is a former Para's RSM, perhaps that is where his adherence to regulation and detail have come from? He is a big chap and admitted on the first occasion of testing the car that he never laid hands on one before, this became evident when checking the rear wheel bearing he tugged so hard the car skipped across the ramp and almost came off.
  10. virden
    The green light doesn't come on with the hazards and I couldn't remember if it did, Duckpit has answered it for me. Incidentally Jonathan, I am surprised you are allowed in the car whilst up on the ram, my MOT tester won't allow me in the test bay let alone in the car
  11. virden
    In my 1996 Super Sprint, the light in the hazard warning switch flashes when the switch is thrown, all indicator lights flash, BUT the green indicator warning light which works when the indicators are used does not go on ..... should it? I have the MOT coming up next week , is this a potential fail?
  12. virden
    Having has two cars pull out in front of me in as many days I think it may be time to fit some LED running lights. Has any one any experience/ recommendation of fitting the combined indicator. running light kit?
  13. virden
    Having has two cars pull out in front of me in as many days I think it may be time to fit some LED running lights. Has any one any experience/ recommendation of fitting the combined indicator. running light kit?
  14. virden
    For some reason my fuel gauge always has suffered from condensation,and surprising quickly. I am wondering if its position as first on the left side meant that it received a hot air stream from the extended footwell which is close to the 4:1 manifold.
  15. virden
    Many thanks to the person whom a month or two ago recommended cutting a small slot in the rear of the tub containing the instrument gubbins, I did this to my fuel guage and for the first time in ten years the internal glass face has remained dry in all conditions.
  16. virden

    Instrument lights

    virden replied to virden's topic in TechTalk

    Solved, works a treat The old bulbs for the speedo and rev counter were BA9S's, I replaced them with GLB233/ GLB989 which are the shorter (18mm) version of the LED replacement. The service from https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/ has been excellent, very helpful and bulbs sent 1st class by return.
  17. virden
    Is the distance the same on a 1996 S3 Imperial Chassis. I have tried 803-805mm (with magnet) but had no luck
  18. virden
    I'd go with Stridey's suggestion, I have found it easy to fit the cable without the outer casing locking into the clip on the arm joining the the carbs. Another thought: have you fitted the big return spring the right way around? The coil in the middle should be facing outwards, not towards the block.
  19. virden
    Have tried to bring my 96 Super Sprint X/F out of winter hibernation but cannot get it to fire up. The plugs are sparking and dry, the battery strong, and the fuel pump is working. The carb float chambers are full but when turning over there is no smell of fuel and as far as I can see looking into the trumpets no fuel is being squirted when I open the throttles, so I am guessing there blockages in the carbs? Do I have to strip the carbs down or will squirts of carb cleaner sort it? Well done Auyt, there was clear jelly like film blocking the jet holes. Thanks
  20. virden
    If all the battery connections are correct, take a look under the scuttle, my X/F (96) came with a load of loose/ seemingly spare wires there and I found it was easy ( but not obvious) to have disturbed these and cause a localised short when pulling cable through the grommets in the bulkhead.
  21. virden

    Instrument lights

    virden replied to virden's topic in TechTalk

    Thanks all, most useful, now it is simply a case of either lying upside down in the footwell with restricted breathing, legs dangling over the roll bar and the challenge of trying to get out again, or sitting normally whilst staring at my reflection in the mirror as cross eyed and swearing with wrists bent double I attempt to overcome intuition and screw in fiddly little bulbs in what appears to be the wrong direction! Ah the joys of owning a Seven!
  22. virden
    The lights on my speedo and fuel gauge have all but failed. Will some kind soul please recommend an upgrade replacement - bulb number, and if an LED whether they require new holders. 1996 Super Sprint. Thanks
  23. virden
    I agree that a mechanical pump takes longer to fill the float chambers. I use "8"s which normally gey me started after 2-3 attempts. NB make sure you plug gaps are correct and your coil delivering a good spark.
  24. virden
    Derek, As someone who uses 13" for road use, I find there is very little choice of tyre available that will cope with wet /cold conditions. I am on the last of the road legal AO21Rs and despair of finding any thing near as good to replace them with, so I think 14" are a better choice for you. Good luck
  25. virden

    Ignition leads

    virden replied to Fyldeflier's topic in TechTalk

    How does one test the efficiency of leads? Mine are c10k miles old
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