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Fyldeflier

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  1. I recently had problems with my Speedo. it went to JDO and was re built there. Very reasonable price and it was turned round in less than a week.I know speedy cables are good but I think the speed of turnround for repairs is glacial! John.
  2. As title states . To fit 1997 s3 . Not vdo but later Caterham one. obviously must be serviceable.
  3. Hi Jonathan. no specific question. Info for a friend with a series 4 which has been damaged by fire. we need to construct a new loom . Jbcollier . Thanks very much. Very helpful. cheers both. John.
  4. As per the title . does any one have a wiring diagram for a lotus 7/series 4. thanks.
  5. Hi all. a good friend of mine has a s4 which has been damaged by a carb fire. Can anyone suggest a source for body panels etc for this . I know Redline did have moulds etc and will contact Chris direct. also could anyone suggest someone capable of rebuilding it ? thanks John.
  6. Hi Charlie. I think you need to check if you have dot 5 or dot 5.1 dot 5 is silicon and you must not mix it with other types of brake fluid. dot 5 will not attract moisture and therefore you shouldn't need to change it. When it came out it was touted as being great for racing due to its higher boiling point. However it is somewhat more compressible than normal brake fluid which gives a longer or spongier feel to the brake pedal so it fell out of favour. when it is fresh it is often purple but with time it changes colour and eventually ens up yellow ish or clear. Hope this helps. John.
  7. I had very similar symptoms on my K series car. Turned out to be the pressure relief cap. They are known to be unreliable. worth a try. John.
  8. Cheers Paul. That you have!
  9. Thanks for the heads up RJ .ordered a new one from Redline. dropped the sump and retrieved broken bit . All back together and driven. No leaks. John.
  10. Thanks guys.it seems to have snapped pretty low down where the tube bend is at maximum. i don’t fancy disturbing the thermostat and take the point about cross threading the bolt through it into the block. so I have made sure that the broken end has dropped into the sump and will drain the oil and drop the sump. thanks for the tip re the bell housing bolts on reassembly. John.
  11. Thanks Ian and RJ. no foam took that out years ago. i think the broken bit might be in the dipstick tube so I’ll drain the oil and take that off first. Might save taking off the sump. thanks for the help. John.
  12. I have just had the oil dipstick in my K series snap in the tube that feeds into the sump. it is the yellow plastic type and has broken off where the graduation marks are at the sump end. i assume its sump off to remove the broken bit. any tips or advice? thanks. John.
  13. It’s amazing how many people on here who have at one time owned a 1400ss regret selling. i have had mine now for 14 years and will never sell it as long as I can get in and out of it! For me the perfect car and now the 1.4 LE is as rare as hens teeth and much sought after. i admit there are much quicker 7’s out there but for me the little 1.4 ss with 6 speed box scores 10 out of 10 on the fun scale. John.
  14. I have decided during this winters check over to change the ignition leads. The car is a 1400 ss eu2 with a single coil. any recommendations ? If possible I would like the king lead to have a rubber boot to cover the coil as the original has one and it seems a good way of keeping water and muck away from the coil. thanks John.
  15. I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the wheel centre cap. if your car has the spun ally ones it could be the answer. worth a try. John.
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