virden
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Everything posted by virden
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Have never done this, is it a straight forwrd job?
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My '96 Super Sprint has the original brakes on it. Prior to replacing the pads with Mintex 1144 the car stopped in a straight line, but took longer than I wished. I have bedded in the pads as per recent Blat Chat, and have done about 100 miles. I find that under moderate to strong braking the car initially dives to the left, then evens out. I did not bleed the brakes, will doing so cure the querk? or is there something else i should look at?
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Just a thought, how about using a hammer drill with a nut in the bit instead of a drill. The idea being that the vibration will break the rust bond. Good luck
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Than Eugene, In the end I drilled a 2mm hole through one of the dimples under the locking lever. The metal there is only 1 mm think, works a treat.
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"It happens... I destroyed a diff on my 2CV... " How?!!!!
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myothercarsa2cv 78% tends to be rather wet up here. Anyway it cannot be sold such because the ratio is unstable and would therefore bring forth the attention of the weights and measures people. As a matter of disinterest, I added 4 psi to the front and on entering the same bends, under exacting test conditions (there was a truck coming the otherway) noted that the understeer had gone.
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I bought a new tyres for the tintop and got them filled with N. The reasoning being that air apparently heats to increase pressure by an ave. 5psi. On driving tintop I found it understeered until I increased the pressure by 5psi over my usual 30psi at cold. Supposing I was to put N in the Seven's tyres, I usually run them at 18psi cold, would you recommend increasing this to 20-21?. I am thinking of doing this because the rear tyres have worn as if they were over inflated. Tyres: 185/70/13
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I have a 1996 S3 XFlow and have just fitted a new Caterham flush fitting fuel filler cap.My tank does not have a seperate breather, so should I drill a hole in the filler cap? If so where, above the word "caterham"?
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JOHN, I suffered precisely the same problem with my Xflow after I renewed things. It would start well, run well for about ten miles then develop an increasing reluctance to rev, until it died. If left to cool down for 20 mins, it would start off and repeat the cycle. In the end I found the new coil didn't work in my set set up. Changed back to the old one, and have never looked back. Perhaps it was the wrong coil or simply faulty, I don't know. Good luck
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I have found that the 9" flexible rubber hose as supplied with grease guns has the same thread size as the axle and fits perfectly in the hole where the plastic breather was fixed. This means I can either direct the hose onto the road, or by means of a jubilee clip, fit a plastic extension pipe and catch tank. Simples ! *smile*
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Madmalc, re spax, do those setting hold true for "track day" springs? and is clockwise to stiffen?
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Sorry to go O/T, Molecular Bob,, where is the breather on your live axle? Mine is located on the upper RHS about where your brake union is fixed.
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Great, Thanks Areoscreeens
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SWMBO in her wisdom has thrown out 😳 the edition with the above article. I cannot find it archived on the Club Website. Would some kind person please point out the link to me, or possibly send me a pdf covering discs and pads on an S3 live axle. Thanks
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Thanks Roger. Thats precisely waht happened when I tried the cast cover with a new cork seal. About half a litre leaked out before I noticed!
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Has anyone had success in sealing a rocker box using sealant alone, i.e. without fitting a cork gasket? If so which sealant did you use?
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Thanks both, I'd used Hammerite when last done two years ago. This has bubbled under the surface, even though I took it down to bare metal.... didn't prime it though.
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I have a 4-1 with a single bracket 6" silencer. I have made up a 2 " wide rubbing pad which I have strapped at the rear end of the silencer by means of two Jubilee clips.- all hidden under the heat shield. Doesn't solve the clearance prob, but stops the box being worn away.
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I have an Ital axled car in which I always over fill the diff. Hence most of the rear chassis tubes and suspension are coated in a thick coat of dirt and oil. Whilst servicing, I have noted that some of the powder coating has peeled off. It will be a major task to prepare the rear end for POR15, so before doing so I am wondering if it is worth it, or can I rely on the continual spary of hydraulic oil to provide all the protection required?
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My beloved 05 plate, 20v, petrol, V70,-150K miles, has devloped a front end vibration which starts around 60 mph and disappears above 80 mph. We have balanced the wheels, fitted new discs and replaced lower ball joints to no avail. The car has just sailed through its MOT with no referrals. The rubber in top engine to bulkhead mount is in need of replacement but this is all we can find. The garage believes that it might be the flywheel (dual mass?) about to fail, but as the vibration commences regardless of me being 3,4 or 5th gear, I think it must be something else. Any suggestions?
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Hi Mike, Can I have 1st dibs on the crank please. I assume it will fit an AX block? Thanks Virden
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Are you actually getting a spark from the plugs, try turnover with one removed from the cylinder, but touching the head. If that works, it may be fuel. Does it fire if you put your hands(or somebody else's) over the trumpets to cut the air flow? If it does even momentarily, check to make sure that your throttles are closing fully. I have been caught out by partially open throttles due to the cable becoming snaged at the nipple.
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Just to add a couple of small complications. The suction from the piston is subject to lag and so effectively you will be lucky you get more than 80% of the swept volume in any cylinder. (hence the advantages of super/turbo charging). Given that the air movement is subject to lag, it means that the air will be accelerating into the cylinder rather than flowing at a constant rate. Oh yes, and when the inlet valve shuts, the inflowing air rebounds and sets up a reverse shockwave
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Jonathan, It is a wall switch, set outside the room, which is the downstairs shower /toilet located at the end of the utility room, hence the door is always kept shut. The door to it faces the back door, therefore a small light will be noticed as one turns to leave the house. The Fan does have a timer unit which activates only after the switch is put to off.
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SWMBO (well it wouldn't be me!) keeps leaving the light on in our bathroom, which as it also operates a simultaneous fan, means that after an hour or so the heat is lost. I have tried a light switch with a red top on the rocker, but this has not been noticed, so what I want is some form of descrete warning light. I thought of a rocker with a built in neon, but as switch is set in a std lighting circuit there is only access to the live feed. Therefore it would not work? There is no possibility of getting a neutral feed to the switch. Any advice?
