RedCat7

Sigma 150 and 140 had different cooling setups. 150 came with the crappy plastic tanked radiator (which I assume by now have all failed and been replaced with an all-ally one) and a modine oil cooler. 140 has the ally radiator but no oil coiler (AFAIK). I wonder if adding the oil cooler would ne neccessary if you added the 150 TBs. Maybe not, since the power increase is small but something to keep in mind. Another difference is the 140 has a lightened flywheel but the 150 does not. That begs the question has anyone fitted the 140 flywheel to a 150 and how different does it feel? My 150 runs nicely so long as the TBs are balanced and the induction noise is lovely.

Yes please

The Clubsport 22 is narrower so you would either need to replace the bracket or make a packer for the Banner bracket. I bought the powervamp bracket with the battery but suspect I may never get around to fitting it now that I have made a 'temporary' wooden packer.

Nice work Andy. I'm up for Oulton and a maybe for Brands. Jim

How about a puggy backing the fuse socket so that you can have a seperate fused circuit for the dash and boot 12v supplies? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-MINI-FUSE-ADD-A-CIRCUIT-FUSE-TAP-PIGGYBACK-/230652186731?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35b3f1106b I have one ready to wire-in and it fits well. Seems like a good idea but I'm not a spark.

How about wiring so that when the sidelights/headlights were switched on, the DRLs go off? Did you just cable tie the additional wires to the outside headlight brackets? I found it an absolute pig to feed wires through the headlight brackets (newish low type). I have Cree LED bulbs in my sidelights which I think are bright enough to be a subsitite for DRLs. I'm thinking of wiring my sidelights so that they come on automatically with ignition. I guess it should be straightfoward. Has anyone done that? I have been running with sidelights switched manually but have left my lights on a couple of times and needed a jump start :(

Hi Andy, nice one for taking this on! I'm keen on doing Cadwell again after a great day last year. The 6th is prefered, definately couldn't do the 18th. A return to Oulton Park would be great too. I particularly like the suggested dates which are either earlier in the year than usual or on a Saturday, rather than the usual late October weekday. Could be tempted by Anglesey aswell. Jim

3 years (and about 9k ago), the advice from MADS was not to bother apart from the rear wings which you can easily do yourself before fitting the guards. IMO that was good advice. Most chips have been on the bonnet in areas not protected by film. Also, I think the odd chip looks less eye catching than the edges you can see with the film. Horses for courses I suppose but a full film job is not cheap.

I found the standard single Crees are bright enough to use as DRLs. Even though they point upwards, the lens means that plenty does go forward. Now running these which also have LEDs on the sides. Slight improvement but it is still the Cree at the tip producing most of the light http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181181498123?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Post Office Red, TSK told me that a few months ago.

Making Tech Talk members only is an own goal IMO. After asking for help in Tech Talk, I've been contacted and helped by non-members with solutions via Blatmail. If they can no longer view then they can no longer help members this way, which I think devalues the membership. TT was also one one the things that attracted me to the club - one benefit of joining the club (being able to ask for advice on Blatchat) was obvious for non-members to see.

Re-calibrate it, so that it is accurate. Right now it reads empty when the tank is half full.

Is there a way to re-calibrate the gauge or sender? After running out of fuel on Sunday, 170 miles after filling up I need a better solution than filling up every 200 miles! I find that every now and then a petrol pump does not want the properly fill the tank.

My Sigma had this problem after I upgraded from the standard plastic capped radiator to the all alloy one which I think is now standard on the 140. Trouble is the alloy version doesn't have the 5/16 bleed nipple which is T'd with the 5/16 bleed hose coming from the back of the head. I had the same symptoms until replaced the M10 bleed plug with a 5/16 banjo fitting plumbed the original T back in. Well actually I upgraded the plastic T to a brass one while I was at it. Banjo Fitting Tee

Be careful about relying on a phone app alone. My Google Nexus will not read more than about 90dB no matter which app I use or how close I place it to the exhaust.

On my Sigma 150, fitting the cat does not affect the volume.

Another update from me. After no local recommendations, I sent the silencer off to Powerspeed. They said the reason I couldn't get it apart was some excess weld had meant the riveted end cap wasn't removable. Anyway they did a nice job of repairing, repacking it and making it easy to repack in future with button head bolts. Cost was about £250 including postage both ways. Unfortunately I have 2 problems with the repaired silencer. The first being that the used slightly to small a diameter tube so it didn't fit on the CAT. It was also pretty thick walled so a bast$%d to expand to fit and and then clamp back up again. In hindsight, I should have sent my CAT bypass pipe down with the silencer. The second problem is that it is not any quieter than it was before when it was half empty. 100 dB according to my cheapo gauge and also the Cadwell tester. I'm sick of faffing with the exhaust for this year but maybe I'll give accoustafil a try over the winter.

Just an update on my experience after taking advice from Grubbster (many thanks). I changed from the standard master cylinder which went spongy on dry track days to the uprated AP cyclinder. The outcome was exactly what I had hoped for - did 200+ miles last week at Cadwell and the brakes still felt great afterwards. I am also please with the feel and effort - I was concerned that the larger diameter would require too much effort but not the case at all. For reference I have the AP 4-pots on the front and standard calipers at the rear.

Many thanks to Merrick and co for a fantastic Trackday! Nice photos Rog - thanks for posting. My laps with Adam Morgan were a real eye opener - learnt a lot more than I expected I didn't make a donation to NTL on the day. Is there a Just Giving webpage or equivalent? Jim Edited by - RedCat7 on 27 May 2014 18:25:57

They don't all do that Wheelnut. On mine, any poor running is usually sorted by balancing the Throttle Bodies.

Thanks Chris. I have had time to give TSK a quick call and they were very happy to help . However the flat white is apparently not straightforward because it is a non-standard colour. Instead it has been matched to Caterham's white fibreglass (which I wonder if they are Frozen White). TSK suggested ordering the touch-up paint stocked by Caterham parts. I had some other parts to order anyway, so that's what I have done. TSK also informed me that my red paint is BS538 Post Office Red, although Caterham call it Exocet Red. Edited by - RedCat7 on 25 Apr 2014 17:11:28

Anyone know if I can get a colour from Halfords that will match? Jim

Quoting RedCat7: Newer cars don't even need a sub-loom. Spade connectors can be found at the back right bottom corner if the chassis. At least that was the case on my 2011 SV. Look for a black wire and a green wire with purple stripe on a sigma. Photo here

Newer cars don't even need a sub-loom. Spade connectors can be found at the back right bottom corner if the chassis. At least that was the case on my 2011 SV.

I use the screw driver like bar method to compress the springs. My tip is to wear gardening gloves to protect your hands. I learnt that the hard way ☹️