RedCat7

I tried a lot more persuasion and all it got me was an ugly/leaky silencer. With the end cap loose in a now baggy case it still won't come off. I guess the tubes must all be welded up inside. I reckon I can rivet it back together but it will still be noisy and leaky now, so I think I need a new silencer ASAP. CC don't do a repackable for Sigma. I know about Powerspeed and Meteor but they seem quite expensive and I want to keep the cost low if I can so there is more money left to spend on track days. Can anyone please recommend any companies closer to Chester who could make me a repackable silencer?

Spoke to CC today who reckoned it's not designed to be re-packable but noted that the end cap is riveted so it might be possible. So not exactly crystal clear. Time to get more persuasive with the persuaders since I don't have much to loose if I screw it up! Steve M, the car has done 6K since 2011 on this, it's first silencer.

It's the same silencer as ChrisC's. I do not know for sure if it is re-packable. I did trawl the archives but didn't find an answer. The exhaust had got too noisy so I have nothing to loose in having a go. Now that the rivets are out I can shin a torch in and see that at least the first 6 inches of the silencer has no packing left in it at all. I think I'll give CC a call.

Can't see any sealant. Unfortunately it's the end cap nearest the collector that I am trying to remove. The end cap at the tail pipe end does not appear to be removable.

Thanks SM25T. Do you have any persuading tips? It isn't easy to get any purchase on the end cap to do the persuading. I'm also not sure if the perforated tube comes out with the removable end cap or not. I know on powerspeed silencers it doesn't but I am sure I have read about silencers where the tube comes out with the removable cap.

Does anyone have any experience of re-packing the standard Silencer? I have drilled out the rivets but can't get the the end cap to come away. Tips please? Jim

Hi Grubbster Did a new Master Cylinder solve this issue? I have similar symptoms ☹️

I have SBFS Half Hood and an Oxted Shower Cap. The Oxted cap is good but not quite as nicely made as the SBSF stuff and doesn't come with a bag. Customer service is a different story. SBFS suck in my experience. I've ordered twice over the last 2 years and had to chase and chase and chase both times. Oxted sell their stuff on ebay through The European Trimming Company. No problems when I ordered my shower cap - arrived in a couple of day. However if the goods are not needed in a hurry I think SBFS are worth the extra hassle. Don't forget to ask for the L7C discount Edited by - RedCat7 on 20 Dec 2013 12:17:14

Just ordered a used one from a breakers on ebay for £4. I couldn't find the exact (Delphi) part number (12247561) match but there seems to be lots of GM, Volvo and Renault cars that use what appears to be the one. Apparently you just need to be sure it's a 1 bar type, so from a normally aspirated car. BTW, if the sensor is unplugged then the car starts and idles ok. If only I had tried that a month ago!

It lives . John Hughes lent me a spare MAP sensor (amongst other goodies) and as soon as I tried it the problem was solved. I hear that originally the MAP sensors on sigma 150's were used to measure load instead of the TPS but nowadays they are disconnected and just measured ambient air pressure. The mounting of the sensor hasn't changed though. It is mounted with the nipple pointing upwards but with no hose attached. So I reckon rain water dribbled in through the bonnet louvers and down into the nipple. Needs a little hose fitted and bent over in a loop so the end points down. Nice warm evening last night so I was very pleased to get in what might be my last Blat before winter really kicks in. Thanks for all the advice gents and to John for the bits and pieces. I'll definitely have some fun playing with the MBE connector before I bring you that back!

Crank sensor connector and cable looks ok, is dry and is connected securely. The Homestart chap ran the engine on 3 cylinders with the HT lead connected to one of the old spark plugs, earthed on the outside of the block. We could see the frequency of spark stepping up as soon as the engine caught, suggesting the crank sensor is working.

Unplugging the lamda sensor did not help. Any more ideas?

TPS seems to be set and working fine. I measured TPS reading as 1.00v closed throttle, 4.56v fully open. A BC search suggested that 1.03v is optimum. It only took half a turn of the idle screw to raise the reading to 1.03v but that had no effect on the problem.

Thanks for you thoughts chaps. Just been out for more experimenting. I can get to run (just) on any 3 cylinders but only with throttles closed. Dies as soon as you try any pedal. Doesn't really want to run on 2 but on the one occasion it did it sounded like it was running on 2 rather than 3. Jim

Catches for a split second then does straight away. Car was last put away running great after the Oulton Park Trackday but was wet. I thought it might be out of fuel but have added 15l without any improvement. Homestart guy changed the spark plugs (because they were black and the gap looked large to him and my corner shop is a motor factors). We then found that it would run on 3 cylinders when the HT lead 1 or 2 was disconnected but as soon as it was reconnected the engine would die. Tried disconnecting a reconnecting a few sensors. Homestart guy has never seen anything like it before but suspects duff sensor. Tried disconnecting a reconnecting a few sensors but to no avail. Opening the throttles doesn't help, just created a few back fires. Anyone got any ideas to try please? My next step was to get an MBE diagnostic cable.

My bodge should up for the time being but if you are still happy to part with your spares Mav, I'll take them off you at Oulton please.

Thanks all. Sorry I didn't realise that they were removable. The descriptions all make sense now I have got them off. I've cobbled together one out of the remains of what I had and some insulation tape. So for the time being I have the positive terminal safely covered here. Mav, I'm in Curzon Park which I believe is not your side of town. Will you be at Oulton on the 19th or at MADS meet this month? Cheers Jim

Thanks chaps but I'm not sure we mean the same thing. A photo here should help explain. I need to insulate the terminals before I accidentally lay a spanner down and short the battery! I guess I need something like this. Tricky to tell if they will fit though. I assume that most owners must have this problem sooner or later because the covers that come on the battery break so easily.

Any recommendations please? Loads on ebay but not easy to be sure which will fit. The brittle plastic ones it came with have snapped off.

Android Torque + Bluetooth OBD2 adaptor didn't work on my Sigma. Did work ok on my Mondeo Mk3 though.

Are you sure it isn't engine oil? My Sigma 150 had similar symptoms after a few hundred miles from new. Turned out to be a badly fitted rear crank seal leaking into the bell housing.

I don't know if smoking primaries on first start is normal but mine on my Sigma did that and have been fine for the 6000 miles since.

Yhm

Please

Hi Jez, have you made it back to the UK yet?