RedCat7

You flashed past in a bright green seven as we were waiting to turn on from a side road in our pair of sevens.

Thanks. I'll look into the toe. The steering rack is very smooth with no play. It came back from Caterham PBC/IVA like it is. As well as feeling very light it is a lot less lively/twitchy than other sevens I've driven, verging on inert. Actually I quite like it when touring but would like a bit more weight and feel when pushing on.

My steering is light (fine) and there is no self centering (not fine). I think I have too little Caster caused by incorrect washer placement when fitting the lower wishbones. I followed my Assembly Guide which said for wide track fit all 4 washers infront of the rear lower wishbone bush (to move the wishbone backwards, reducing Caster, right?). Now I see the latest assembly guide doesn't have this wide track exception and only suggests fitting 2 washers in front and 2 behind. Seems like my assembly guide was out of date and I need to shuffle the washers? Thanks Jim Edited by - RedCat7 on 4 Mar 2012 14:57:53

Getting sick of spending 5 minutes faffing with the harnesses every time my shorter father and I swap seats. I know these aren't the best harnesses but should they really be so stiff? Is there anything that can be done to soften them up a bit? Or do I just have to bite the bullet and buy some decent ones? Thanks Jim

I had similar problems, turned out i hadn't tightened up the battery connections properly.

You will find spade connectors for a third brake coming out of the connector for the drivers side rear lights.

I used 1/4" and 1/2" for my build. I only used 1/2" rather than 3/8" because I already had a 1/2" SS and Torque Wrench. The 1/4" SS and TW is great - well worth the investment.

You drove into the Grovesnor Arms car park but I didn't stick around long because when I went to check-out the car a little later, it had gone!

Thanks everyone. I was thinking 6-points but the Schroth manual implies that this would be dangerous with S-type seats: 'Never use the SCHROTH Racing Harness unless the racing seat is designed with anti-submarining holes. Never run the anti-submarining straps over the front edge of a factory seat down to the floor. Such routing does not provide the desired anti-submarining effect, and in fact encourages submarining, which can cause severe injury and death.' The Schroth website also has some interesting info, although it has started to persuade me that I need one of their 4-point harneses with 2" lap belts and Anti Sub Marining Technology. available here These just happen to be twice as much as the Titon 6-points I was looking at originally! I guess seat belts are not something to skimp on but I still don't want to get sucked in by the marketing BS.

Why would you choose 5 over 6? Cheers Jim

I spoke to Caterham who said send it to them and they will test it and send me a replacement or I could by a new one and then they would refund me once they had the old one back and tested. That all became academic when they realised that they had none in stock. I only just got the car back on the road after a crank seal change which took weaks because Caterham were out of stock .

Leaking from the nearside rear corner and under the hose connection, close to the top where the plastic and metal join. I get a few teaspoonfuls of coolant weaping out when the temperature recahes above 75 degrees. Once the temperarture is getting on for 85 degrees the leak ceases. Kit is less than a year old (sigma 150), so before I ask Caterham to send me a replacement radiator or is there anything else it could be?

Got the car back on Thursday. Nearly 400 miles later and no leaks . Thumbs up for Kenrick Motors who not only fixed the leak but also helped me get a decent contribution from Caterham.

Heading Southbound on Saturday. I was heading northbound - Red SV with white noseband and stripe.

When you spec a kit, you can tick the Kit Labour Warranty option for £750. If you don't then Caterham will only supply replacement parts and you can choose to pay them to fit it if you like. Technically I suppose I could demand they send a replacement engine and I could fit it myself.

It was the rear crank seal. Took the car to Kenrick's in the Llangollen, they tried re-sealing the sump but to no avail. They then took the engine out and upon removal of the flywheel found a damaged crank seal. No spares in the country we're now waiting for one to be shipped from Germany. I didn't tick the labour warranty option when I ordered the kit but Caterham have offered to pay half the labour cost, so I'm left with a bill for £220.

Engine Oil. Could it be that the sump is not properly sealed? Would it be worth removing, re-sealing and re-fitting the sump before removing the engine to get at the rear crank seal?

Leaking from the bell housing opening on the drivers side and driping from the starter motor on the passenger side. It's a new kit build - been on the road a week with 350 miles on the clock. I'm guessing it's the rear oil seal but is there anything else it could be? Anything I can try without taking the engine out? Cheers Jim

Can anyone suggest a good brake light to mount on or just below the X on an FIA bar? I'd prefer to buy something quick and easy rather than have faff about fabricating a bracket. Pics would be appreciated. Cheers

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