John Hughes
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Everything posted by John Hughes
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It is open to atmosphere on 140/150 (on early 150's it attached to a throttle body but most were changed to updated mapping and it is open to atmosphere to cure "lumpy" running) Attaches to the throttle body on 125 it attaches to a small brass pipe that comes off the underside of the throttle body Edited by - John Hughes on 20 Feb 2014 14:20:59
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I believe it was from a Mini
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If it got blocked then probably yes. a looped tube is the simplest solution
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Goof to hear it's all sorted Same problem on Sigma 140 Supersports as the MAP sensor is not connected to the throttle body but open to atmosphere. A piece of tube looped over works fine as long as not allowed to kink shut. MAP sensors are available on eBay for less than £15
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Hi Jim You are welcome to use my MBE connector if needed. Unlikely to be the Lambda as that does nothing until the engine is up to temp. On a sigma disconnecting it will again do nothing until up to temp and then it will not run unlike the K series. I also have a spare coil pack if you want to try swapping that. John
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I nearly waved too but was hidden behind a Boxter *smile*
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I don't think it's needed with a 234 cam, will probably just be extra mass in the valve gear.
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Sikaflex or a Polyurethane Adhesive - there a several eg Tiger Seal I personally would use double sided trim tape though
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When I had my car upgraded by CCM to 140 spec they fit the all ali radiator without the small air bleed pipe / connector. The way they altered the piping was to cut it just past the T piece and then screw a M10 caphead into the open end and apply a pipe clip. I have had no problem with air locks but when filling but have left the plug out of the top of the radiator until is full, replaced it and continued to fill. I must admit that as an "engineering" solution I liked the idea of all the high spots in the head, the radiator and the expansion bottle being connected as a nice neat solution to avoid all those nasty problem that the K series boys get.
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Hi Nigel Peter (Domus) and I have both had a go at removing the plastic tanks from the Ali core, ditching the rubber gasket and using a bead of Polyurethane sealant / Adhesive such as Sikaflex or Tiger seal and then re crimping with Mole grips. Seems to have been successful so far. Worth a try and a lot cheaper than a new radiator.. John
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Hi Nigel Just put 2+2 together and realised who you are. Saw Paul at Cholmondely and he said you had now got a SV150. The ECU map can be change by someone who knows the unlock code and I know of a couple of places that can do a re-map. Balancing the throttle bodies can make a big difference to idle and low throttle running. There is also an idle screw that can be used to increase the idle speed a touch. However I have seen on one accession that increasing the idle speed by altering it also needed the throttle position sensor to be repositioned. John
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The black box next to the ECU is a MAP (Manifold Air.Pressure) sensor that gives the ECU atmospheric pressure. The ECU map is saved in the ECU.
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Heading towards Liverpool about 18:30 Think it was green with yellow nose, hood up (mostly obscured by central crash barriers)
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Older boxes took 1.9l newer ones take 1.2l. They lowered the level/filling plug
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Try a new pressure cap before doing anything more drastic
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Heading south on A5 nr Oswestry at 16:30
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Check the fuel pressure regulator
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Where can i find the poly thingy special bush for live axle a-frame please
John Hughes replied to zetec's topic in TechTalk
I can recommend the rose jointed A-frame. Ran one for 6-7 yrs on my previous car without any problems. -
Ford Focus Haynes manual
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I would think that if solid all the clearances would be consistent and correct. If hydraulic they would be "all over the place" and the clearances would be too big. I have very little experience with the Metro engine, On the occasion I heard one start after a rebuild that had hydraulic tappets it sounded like the clearances were several millimeters until the oil got flowing - this took a minute or so *smile* Edited by - John Hughes on 26 Mar 2013 17:12:24
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As an aside Nearly £10 cheaper from Demon Tweeks than direct from K&N *smile*
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Check the sender - a fellow LADS with a Sigma 150 is on his 3rd OP sender and they aren't cheap - but should be on warranty. They are also nigh on impossible to get at being under the inlet manifold between 1&2 cylinders and next to the plastic moulding for the crank breather
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For future reference the K&N replacement panel filter for the Cold Air Filter on the Sigma 140 Supersport and Duratec cars is K&N Part number:- 33-2853 AKA Ford Fiesta Mk5 petrol engines to 2008 John
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I have the Supersport silencer it sounds superb especially going up the Pass of the Cattle or a tunnel I would suspect you've not got a "cat in hells" chance of getting through a trackday noise check. However if you do you will get stopped on the drive by if you go above 4500 revs when it gets really loud.
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If the valve clearances haven't tightened and a compression test is healthy then I would just keep doing what you're doing and drive it, Check the valve clearances every 6 months or so and if the exhaust clearances start to tighten then you will need to do something.
