John Hughes

Paul That will mean you probably need a Urologist / Plastic Surgeon 😬 😬 Edited by - John Hughes on 20 Oct 2011 12:40:47

If you were missing something a gynaecologist may well be appropriate 😬 😬 😬 If you can try warming the tube to make it more pliable to get over the barbs

Fuses blow primarily due to high current Bulbs more sensitive to higher voltage and will burn the filament out

Yeah nothing to do *smile* Was a proxy spot anyway 😳

John was that you ?

Hi Clive That would be the LADS Picos trip it was 7 7's Me Paul Richards Peter Haslam Mark Pendleton Steve Gibson John Cartmel Dave Horridge and our SWMBOs On our way to get the ferry from Plymouth later today What a stonking day it was Hope you had a good Blat too

My previous car D424OWF is on UK Sports cars 1986 1700 Supersprint live axle Not sure I would pay what they are asking but I suspect negotiation may be possible. I have no financial interest in the car / sale John

It's easier to press on if you take the ball joint off the car and press on with a socket and vice. Very tricky to get on square whist still on the car. Just slightly loosen the locking nut and then count the turns needed to remove the joint from the wishbone so as not to change the geometry when you replace it.

Hi Martin Sorry it's a typo - eapid = rapid John

I'll have it if you can post it or possible deliver via GONADS Will BM my details John

At about 17:30 nr Oswestry

See you at LADS then next week My previous car (1986 Supersprint) had no relay to start with and I didn't want to use a big high amp switch so I needed to add a relay.

John I did this on my old car. The wiring is complicated to explain in writing but I used the positive that originally goes to the fan switch to go to both the switched pole (pin 30) on the relay and the "coil" input (pin 85) on the relay. The output of the coil (pin 86) goes separately to a switch and also to the radiator mounted temp switch so that when either are closed they are earthed and the coil is energised. The output of the relay (pin 87) goes to the positive on the fan. If you're at MADS I can do a diagram John

The hex socket will make getting the nyloc off and on a whole lot easier

No need to grease Make sure there is no grease on the taper or the hole in the upright when putting then back or you will never tighten the nyloc

I have replaced mine with the CBS switch - it was a straight replacement no problems adjusting it to work.

There is a red pre-lit Westfield that "lives" near Bodnant - I have often seen it outside the car sales place in Glan Conwy. Looks awfully like a Lotus / early Caterham 7

I believe the QR1118S ball joint from a Fiat is used when converting the single link to a De Dion upper wishbone to attach to the original "trunnion" upright on a live axle. The taper is different on the De Dion upright with the spherical joint lower wishbone. DO NOT USE A QR1118S with The De Dion upright The correct ball joint is QR1798 Edited by - John Hughes on 3 Jun 2011 19:18:08

Jon "Fair point well made" I hadn't taken that into account

Had a similar problem on my previous car (1700 SS) Was a tired mechanical fuel pump - all of a sudden it couldn't pump enough fuel so misfired after hard acceleration or when running at 70 or more on the motorway. John

Hi Roger / Steve You need 140-160mm Stainless Hose clips for the Sigma silencer - I have used these in the past. EBay Link for hose clips John

Steve Yes that would appear to be so

New sensor on order £45 + VAT from local motor factors. FleaBay appears to be about the same sort of price

I have one in the post arriving on Monday. Will give it a go and report back if you want. John

Firstly a big thanks to Nick Chan for advice and loan of the CAN-USB adapter and a spare Lambda Sensor. Problem - Did a test day at Curborough with LADS last Wednesday all went well until the drive home. After about 10 miles the car started to hesitate ad then surge on light throttle, mid to full throttle no problem at all. Stopped for fuel approx 15-20mins then same again, OK for 10 miles then very difficult to drive on light throtted. To cut along story / trip home short the pattern was repeated again on the final leg home. The last 15 miles on the motorway driven by accelerating to 80 then off the throttle to 65 then accelerating again. The car would not cruise with the throttle in a steady position. A visual check revealed no loose connectors / TPS / split MAP sensor pipe. Diagnosis - Ran car with Easimap on Laptop and it revealed no change in the Lambda reading - was giving 1.12 constantly. Previous research suggested that it should oscillate. Cure - Replaced Lambda Sensor - Car now behaves as it should, no hesitancy etc, Easimap shows the Lambda output oscillating between 0.6 an 1.0. Lambda Sensor cross reference is # BOSCH : 0258 006 155 - 0258 006 156 - 0258 006 484 - 0258 006 485 # FORD : 1215538 - 98 AB 9F472 BB - 98 FB 9F472 CA - 98 FB-9F472-DA - 1143514 - 2S6A-9F472-BB - 1053108 - 1067580 - 1088851 # MAZDA : 1 E04 18 861 # NGK : OZA519-D1 - 0244 # NTK (NGK-GROUP) : 0383 - OZA659-EE9 # VW : 7M0 906 265 B - 7M5 906 265 D - 7M5 906 265 B Maybe of help in the future