irrotational

Still at work...so maybe i won't!

As an update I have got them fitted, adjusted and MOT passed! I might sneak out tonight to see what they are like in the dark!

I think a repair like this without some upgrades/optional extras would be very rare indeed! Are you sure it's that damaged? if it was slow speed it may not have bent the chassis itself?

Stupid question - how do you get the pulley that tight again, after you have undone it!?

Jason, out of interest is this 4.6mm thick still? It sounds like it is a special order one-off type thing?

ta chaps!

I'm not sure of the technical term but inside the headlight bowl there is a three pin plug (the pins are thin and rectangular) which slots into the back of the bulb assembly. I have some new headlights (different make - Cibie Oscars), that also take a 3 pin plug. The old plug physically fits in the new headlight. Will it work? I want to keep the old wiring/plug if possible (for various reasons) and just plug it into the new headlight Edited by - irrotational on 2 Dec 2011 10:33:08

Dam you krapotkin!

No!! tell me more!

BOSS - LOl!

Quoting batteredoldsupersport: This was certainly the case with my 1.4k ss, my Dad drove it and thought it was underpowered. That's because he was changing up at 2500 rpm, and he won't rev any car beyond 4k for fear of breaking it. When we swapped seats and he felt the power output between 5k and 7k, he nearly fainted! My car though did have a huge flat spot at 2k rpm, and for normal sporty driving on country lanes something less focussed would have felt nicer. 😬 great story - changing up at 2,500...I don't think you should ever normally drop below that!? (except for towns, horses, cyclists etc!)

the .vet - just spotted your location! you are very close to knockhill you lucky thing! check out jock7s.com...quite a few of the bods on there are aberdeen way but there is a smattering of people from around "the south" of scotland. The borders group does a lot of trips and things

16's are too bling 😬

...must...resist.... what does road tax on it cost?

Isn't Torque a better measure of power, as people think of it, than power? From the way I've read it described, Torque is about the amount of shove/grunt the engine has, and power is about how quickly it can apply that shove? So for high top speed you need more power, but for better acceleration you need more torque... Is that right?

The "proper" way would surely be some sort of swivel mounting - and a bar coming back to the cockpit to allow you to swivel them! 😬 Just manually operate as you enter the bend and then flick back to straight ahead?

ah - sorry - forgot the heated bit. I was just referring to thickness/protection. My original was heated - but it didn't help much as the water/spray just comes in and hits the back of the glass....you pretty much needed wipers on the inside of the glass as well as outside. I've never had misting problems once moving

Thanks - be careful what you offer though! Got a dremel on the way to help widen the slots for the old bolts

6speed - currently aero but prefer the flexibility of both I'm sure 4.4mm is the standard Cateram use - i.e. the £414 complete sets you buy will have the same glass as the race "glass only" at £90...so I don't understand their comments about MOT fail etc. Out of interest has anyone taken a relatively new windscreen apart to see what glas is in it? I don't think there is anyway the rubber insert will still fit with 6.4mm glass. Anyway the glass guy is going to silicon it into the frame...it will make it a bugger to replace again but the frame is pretty old so I may go for a new one next time I drop the bloody thing and crack the glass (again). I meant to say - it turns out he is a real car nut - he has several vintage cars and runs a 1912 overlander! Hence why I am willing to believe him about glass thickness.

Good build video - anyway order placed - expect some "how do I do X!?" when they arrive.

Just had an interesting chat with a man in a glass shop, who also owns and runs several vintage cars. He was quite against me using the 4.4mm "standard" laminated glass, and said 6.4mm was a minimum and also has some BS standard. Both are made from two sheets of glass and an inter-layer, of plastic. I've gone through old threads and concensus seems to be that 4.4 glass is fine for MOT and de-misting is irrelevant... Anyway my question is, does anyone have this 6.4mm glass in their frames? and if the 4.4mm glass isn't strong enough, why do Caterham sell it?

I tried this awhile ago and was met with blank stares - i took the glas into a place and they were mystified as it looked like it was a triple laminate...in between their thicknesses. They only had "normal" glass and were worried that air pressure alone might crack it - let alone stones etc! I then got this "race" option from caterham several years ago - can confirm it has happily passed 3-4 MOT's at different garages... Cracked it again now though 😔

Ok thanks - understand now! No wires would look a lot neater - will order some.

Ok thanks both - my car is carbon and Ali, so their is a black and silver "theme" I just don't know if the shiny chrome will show up the tatty aluminium... 6speed - why did you re-use the old bolts and make the slots bigger? was this to save having to re-thread the electrical cables through the arms?

Hmm - I took my car to Dreadnought and they said the drop links are worn too... this is one of the few threads I could find about it. I'll replace them anyway as I dont want the rear ARB to go suddenly, but never assumed these items would wear. They know a lot more than me though!