irrotational
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Everything posted by irrotational
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No probs - have another one 😬
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I saw one at a car show the other day and would love one...but 20k *eek* I'm sure that's what they cost, given rarity etc but sadly no way I could ever justify one ☹️
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Probably not a helpful comment but not sure I could bring myself to sit astride anything called a "Dominator"... 😬
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Well I spent to hours fiddling in total and then left it to fit my new rear arb... Came back later and randomly decided to pull out the relay above the hazard one, as per comments above, and the indicators immediately started working! Thanks to everyone for the help!
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Getting bushes around right angle on anti roll bar
irrotational replied to David M's topic in TechTalk
Handy thread, silicone grease, and a load of shoving, and mine popped on. Shame I can't weave the bar through all the rear suspension! Need a degree in topology... -
The big relay I am looking at only seems to have three wires, black, green, which disappear off somewhere and a pink/purple one that comes out of the adjacent flasher fuse... Does that sound right? None of these has continuity with anything on the switch....as far and I can tell...it is s bit fiddly to see if I am actually connecting the meter to the wires.
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Just to add, it looks like only one relay, as that fills the gap behind the fuses... Actually maybe it is one of the ones above too, I will check them all.
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OK, big update:- I think the switch works, I took it off and connected it to a multimeter, on the ohm setting. With he switch in the middle I got nothing but switching left or right I got a beeping noise and a reading. One side was 1 ohm and the other was12!? If I just touch the connectors together manually the nothing happens. I'll try to check the wire from the switch down o the relay. Is there anything else to try? Do the two switches (hazard and normal) merge at the relay? Is there any separate wires "downstream" of this? Could the relay itself have blown/broken? I fitted new headlights a few months ago, but I'm assuming that all the connections at that end must be fine or the bulbs would not light at all? All help gratefully received!
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ok will try those things...would rather be driving it ☹️
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Thanks all, I have done the hazard SWITCH trick, it was initially a bit sticky but several switches back and forth fixed it again. Roughly what does a relay look like? Is it a small black box?
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My indicators physically work, as the hazards flash on and off, but the normal switch is completely dead. The car did get a bit wet in some recent rain, but not soaking. I've checked the back of the switch and all the wires seem connected. Wiggling them makes no difference. Its a 1997 car so is it likely that the switch has just died? What's the best way/order to test things?
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Mine looks the same on a 1997 chassis. I think the mounting blocks come apart via those bolts you can see and the drop links prise off - I think there may be circlips holding them on, but I can only vaguely remember from when I did it last time. Getting the drop links off doesn't take long and is brute force, I'm hoping/assuming the mounting blocks are pretty easy, as I need to do this job soon. What holes does everyone use for fast road and track? Does stiffer = less understeer/more oversteer?
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Relative to Dobbie's it looks like a cracking deal... Will need an eggspert removal company... etc etc
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nope i was wrong - looks like they are fine
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I don't want to worry you but aren't nottingham the awkward one? Vaguely remember a thread awhile ago about it...but may well be mistaken...
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ok thanks - i will double check with them - mine is well over the dedion tube...
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I have a 1997 dedion superlight, and need a new rear ARB. I have seen the comments about snapping and danger etc, but now I have heard it go i will know next time and pull over/be more vigilant. On the caterham site there is a normal one and a race one...is the race one somehow sturdier or less likely to snap? It is also strangely £3 cheaper than the "normal" one.
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If you search in techtalk - a new solenoid is £13...I had tried fixing my wobbly post a couple of times (not properly as suggested in the fixes here) and it didn't work for long. I'd recommend just buying a new solenoid - unless you love modding/fixing things... here is the link about replacing the solenoid - it will also help you make sure you have the right starter
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Quoting charlie_pank: Steve, not sure if I'm misunderstanding, but I've currently got the DD tube out of the car and the shocks + springs are just hanging there. When I've finished all the other messing about, I'll slide the DD tube back in, bolt the shocks to it, attach the radius arms and A-frame and put the wheels back on. Is there something I'm missing about having to compress the springs? That's what I did a few years ago - maybe physically changing the shocks makes it different, or some of them have longer springs, or something...
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Stopping? Does a lithium battery naturally stop charging or does it just get hot and then explode and burn through the floor to the centre of the earth?
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K-series head gasket: can it last 15 years? (pics)
irrotational replied to Mankee's topic in TechTalk
My 1997 caterham still has the original supersport engine and therefore head gasket etc inside it....is this really rare!? Genuinely curious now - I assumed there would be a lot out there like this? -
Me....Too....he keeps plaguing me on a near daily basis! 😬 Please someone buy it!!
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I'll send you a BM
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Bump steer survey - does everyone end up raising the rack 9mm ?
irrotational replied to Jason Plato's topic in TechTalk
Thanks Paul - will have a look next time I have my head down there -
Bump steer survey - does everyone end up raising the rack 9mm ?
irrotational replied to Jason Plato's topic in TechTalk
How do I know if mine was raised? My car darts all over the road anyway so to be honest I suspect bump steer gets lost in the noise. Whats the best way to test for it? fly over a bump and let go of the steering!?
