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irrotational

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Everything posted by irrotational

  1. Well LF says refit the foam!? --- my mind is blank....
  2. Oily - does that mean i should substantially trim the ledge? as it's not protecting me anyway? or just not turn right!? --- my mind is blank....
  3. Should we get rid of the ledge completely? I have drilled the holes but it all seemed slightly pointless given the size of the ledge...does it do anything?? --- my mind is blank....
  4. Half doors took all night to sell!? 😳 😬 --- my mind is blank....
  5. Ok thanks. I'll read up about negative camber some more! --- my mind is blank....
  6. With new tyres (185 60 R13) AO48's it was noticebale that the outside inch of the tyre on the fronts is not making contact with the road. There was a visible line where the main part of the tyre was touching the road and got dirty/wet but the outside inch was clean... Is this normal for camber/toe in or whatever it is? Or is it wildly out? --- my mind is blank....
  7. Hi Virden - I'll put it in my diary and might get out - what meeting is it at KH? --- my mind is blank....
  8. I was in an Ali superlight. Reg r7... I was out on track a fair bit but was very low on petrol near the end so finished slightly early. I got a good spot at around 2.30 and the track seemed empty! Hope the repairs are ok and not too expensive... --- my mind is blank....
  9. Quenton - I was at Knockhill on saturday - didn't hear/see a damaged caterham but as others have said sounds like you were lucky/unlucky. There was a silver R400 and a race car peddled by a nice chap called Peter - I didn't see any others? Do you post on jock7's? --- my mind is blank....
  10. ah sorry there was some discussion on here about it but I thought it was one of those government proposals they publish just to check people really would be up in arms if they went through with it....like ID cards. --- my mind is blank....
  11. Tyres must have a minimum of 1.6mm of tread left. If you look in the grooves of the tyre some of them have a little "lump" in them - this is 1.6mm high so if the surface of the tyre gets down to the lump in the groove then you need new ones..for the road. Tyres wear quickly - especially on track. It's worth getting another set of rims for £50-£100 and then you can put your old tyres on them and use them JUST for trackdays... That way you save the road tyres for the road and wear out your illegal ones (which actually still work perfectly well in the dry) --- my mind is blank....
  12. Cool - i might go down to 14 and see what its like...except im back on 48's now!! 😬 --- my mind is blank....
  13. Lost boy - change your brake fluid and pads 😬...but do it in plenty of time in case you have any troubles bleeding them Everyone just wants you to be safe - approach it with fear and trepidation, move out of the way of any battered golf you see coming up behind you and you probably won't die 😬 --- my mind is blank....
  14. Alex - I was speaking to Ronnie of wheelsaround about pressures in ao21's as mine have worn significantly quicker in the middle... He seemed quite concerned at me going any lower than 16 psi, he thought there was a possibility of rolling the tyres off the rims as there wasnt enough pressure to keep the bead seated. Obviously you've got on ok - but just thought I'd pass on his thoughts 🤔 He also said that after a certain point pressure becomes less relevant as the middles will tend to bulge out and contact the road under centrifugal forces anyway...implication seemed to be if they wear in the middle to start with you can never get that back by trying to reduce pressures... --- my mind is blank....
  15. *arrowup*What they said - i have done 20-30 laps, which by no means makes me an expert but means I know enough to know how much I don't know! If you manage to boil your brakes on the ring then I think you're doing pretty well and/or about to crash 😳 There are several large long sweepy sections and only a few big braking areas (one at the start for the 90 degree bend in fornt of the GP circuit, one after the long uphill flat section - nicely just after a blind crest)... Average speed is 60-70mph so there should be plenty of cool air flow? That said it is probably still worht changing the brake fluid 😬 --- my mind is blank....
  16. *looks nervous* nothing to see here - move along --- my mind is blank....
  17. thanks all - 1" socket it is. I'll do it up quite tight, and might put a tiny bit of locktte on it... i put a smear of oil round and never had problems before, but a garage did it last time....ill blame them! 😬 edited to add yes the axis is the same as the oil filter, and i assume normal operation relies on this extra bit being done up a lot tighter than the filter so "normally" just the filter unscrews... --- my mind is blank.... Edited by - irrotational on 7 Mar 2010 13:24:33
  18. I think i mean the same thing as question 3 in this thread? here --- my mind is blank....
  19. Mine was jammed on hard (after a garage serviced it last year) so i ended up using the screwdriver trick to get it off.... unfortunately some of the engine block came with it!?!? It appears to be an extension piece to the oil plumbing...the oil filter nromally screws onto a thread - that thread has come out and seems to be an extension piece that itself screws onto a thread further inside. This extension piece has a nut shape halfway alonbg it - i assume this is meant to be screwed onto the engine really tight and then the filter goes on the end of it but only hand tight? Anyone have any clue how tight this thing is meant to be done up or what size the nut is? its bigger than 19mm and thats my biggest socket! --- my mind is blank....
  20. Charlie - thats what i did. The packaging clearly states that it bonds better to a rough surface, and actually suggests there is more work to do if you are applying to brand new shiny metal. I did apply the zinc oxide stuff before hand though. dont think it was strictly nescessary but was meant to help bonding and I thought why not? I bought a triple pack of small tins (one primer 2 por15) --- my mind is blank....
  21. hmm ok...definitely got 70's from wheelsaround but that was probably a year ago... scotland is usually different (St Andrews ambulance!?) so maybe they have a seperate deal? --- my mind is blank....
  22. weird - i thought 70's were used in a race series so were much cheaper than 65's? I paid £60-£70 fo 65's but 70's were more like £40? I am cyrrently being naughty and have 65's on the front and 70's on the back, was going to switch to 70 all round but they dont fit under the front arches :-( all 13X185 tyres i mean --- my mind is blank....
  23. Wheelsaround - I have only used them once but they are recommended... AFAIK he is actually the scottish distributor for Yoko's so price should be competitive. He is often in his lorry at knockhill where he can fit them, so I guess maybe at his place? I met him at knockhill to buy some but he didnt have any in his lorry, I gave him the cash and he phoned his daughter, and i nipped up the road to collect them. So good service. http://www.wheelsaround.com/ here --- my mind is blank....
  24. hmmm bit of a range from TADTS to imminent failure! Is quaife the same as AP? I have forgotten what little I learnt 😳 time to re-read Angus's site I think! --- my mind is blank....
  25. Thanks mark - yes i think it was an AP sure track? I have never heard the rattling before - it only seemed to happen when the wheels started spinning fast, which I assume was due to the diff locking... If it does it every time it locks up, i must not have heard it as this would only occur on track, and then I have engine noise and helmet on? hmmm never heard it when donutting, e.g. dunsfold.... --- my mind is blank....
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