Tony C

Bright lamp and a magnifying glass shows the bearing housing is heavily pitted with corrosion. New wishbone ordered 🙆🏻 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Loctite 641 here. Looks like it is good for gaps up to 0.25mm (72 hour cure). Sliding fit I guess manufacturing tolerances between bearing and housing can give different levels of fit - I'll check with CC - maybe I had a small bearing and a big hole and the looseness caused the PTFE liner to migrate. What appears to be corrosion in the housing might be Loctite Bearing Fit residue. Thanks for the info. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

2003 SV How much of an interference fit should there be between the bearing and the wishbone? While checking out strange noises from front nearside, heard when pushing the 7 back into the garage, I noticed it was possible to get vertical movement on the L/H upright. I could see that the spherical bit was moving up and down within its race. (The fibre lining is coming out one side). Checked with CC this morning and ordered a new pair of bearings - Sod's Law being what it is, the offside might not be far behind - though it's fine at the moment. I looked at all the good information in the "Search" and decided to remove the wishbone from the car so I could use the press at work to remove and refit the bearing. Just finished taking it off and once the spiral "Circlip" was removed the bearing just fell out of the housing. There is evidence that the outer race has been rotating within the wishbone. The bearing is very shiny on its outside face and the wishbone housing looks corroded. The bearing easily slides in and out and can rotate freely. If, as I suspect, the wishbone housing is worn, the new bearing will also be free to rotate even when using Loctite “Bearing Fit” as advised. I’ll try it first of course, but it looks like I might need a new wishbone 🙆🏻 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Edited by - Tony C on 10 Apr 2007 21:52:41

I have a throttle pedal stop too. The bolts go through the vertical end of the pedal box. It's only aluminium, so BIG washers are required. The throttle pedal stop is positioned to contact the tubular end. The clutch pedal stop contacts the arm about 2" above the pedal. I've levered my clutch pedal towards the brake pedal so I can get my foot beside it when not gear changing - even so, the clutch pedal stop is real close to the inner corner. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Long threaded 10mm coach bolt from B&Q, two BIG "Penny" washers and two locknuts. Luckily my marking out was OK and the bolt was in the right position first time. Adjusted to contact about 2" of pedal travel past the bite point - didn't want it too close until I've tried it for a while. After the first test session, I could adjust it to contact the stop a bit earlier, but it's OK. I find that with the fixed pedal travel my gearchanges have become more consistant. Easy and IMHO a worthwhile mod. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Halfords - it's made by Loctyte BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

If you have any trouble viewing the wiring schematics, send me an e-mail with your e-mail address and I'll attach the masters - the ones on 7faq have a habit of disappearing - I've just had to reinstall them now BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

V411 *** Turned right off A41 with me on your tail - well you were two-up 😬, then went North up the A413 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Hi Nic I have a pair I'll bring along to Penn 7 on Saturday. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

If anyone's interested: I've finished making the doublers to rivet to the cracked lowered floor pan. I'm going to use two sheets of Aluminium, one inside and one outside - NS4 H6, 14 gauge (2 mm) obtained from Merlin Motorsport. I used this spec for no other reason than that was what was available, but it has taken the bending beautifully, with no visual signs of stress. The two pieces are both the length of the seat runners + a bit and full width, bent up at either side; this section when viewed from the rear ____________/. Once I've checked for best rivet spacing I can start drilling and riveting. With a total of 6mm thickness it is over engineered, but shouldn't give any further problems BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Edited by - Tony C on 23 Mar 2007 20:10:12

I've got a pair Harry. Not too sure of their condition - I'll have a look tonight. e-mail me your address and I'll pop them in the post FOC BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Apparently, welding aluminium is not at all straight forward - heat dissipation is not even. I could get it welded in-situ, but as the pan is rigidly located this will give rise to some strange stresses. The seat pan is bowed laterally across the two rear seat rail mounting bolts and that is where the crack is centred on the outboard side. I drive with the seat positioned full aft so the load is concentrated in that area. I’ll try to engineer suitable strengthening across the two rear holes by using riveted doublers, hung from the side of the lowered pan; if I can spread the load into the surrounding structure my 🙆🏻 should be safe. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Obviously not my lucky day 😔 While closely inspecting existing crack with magnifying glass to identify ends of crack for stop drilling, I've noticed the lowered floor pan is also cracked in approximately the same place on the outboard side too I guess I can use one of the two welded doublers I've had made-up, intending to put one on either face of the known crack, on the inboard crack and one on the outboard crack. Although there IS evidence of the inboard rear seat rail bolt making contact with the road - it's not bent, just abraded - I still think the work hardening the floor pan gets when it's bent through nearly 90 degrees during manufacture didn't help and caused it to crack rather than bend. If I rivet the doublers to the outside I can at least closely monitor the floor pan from the inside for further deterioration. I suppose I should accept the inevitable and order a new floor pan - it's just the thought of having to close all those steel rivets again makes my arms ache 🙆🏻 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Mine worked good too and then discovered they can also be used to lock the flywheel in place - they are just the right size to mesh with the starter ring BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Close inspection shows the crack to be 12" long with jagged edges at the rear. When removing the drivers seat there was evidence (couldn't get the nut off without a great deal of swearing) of contact between the rear inboard seat runner bolt end and the third planet. I seem to remember an almighty BANG when flying across a dip in the road two-up about a year ago, but thought it was the rear towing eye again - it was a bit bent. I'm guessing the impact generated the crack which has been propagating ever since. There is also quite a bit of fretting corrosion on the inside of the seat pan where the bolts go through the seat runners - particularly at the rear inboard bolt. I plan to stop drill the crack, hoping I get its ends (unfortunately the real ends of the crack may be invisible even with a magnifying glass) I've seen quite a few stop drilled cracks that just propagated around the hole. Then rivet a doubler on the outside. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Just informed CC (James) of the crack and also spoke to Bruce at Arch, who immediately offered to weld it up FOC - good ol' Bruce I've spoken to the welder at work and he can weld it up or weld-up an angled full length patch to be then rivetted on the outside. When I've removed the underbody seal and done a more detailed inspection I can better decide which repair to use. This'll teach me to keep trying to get completely airborne at the top of the hill on the way home from work BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Just been under my SV and while glancing about noticed a girt big crack in the drivers side lowered floor pan. The crack is in the lower bend and begins adjacent to the rear inboard seat rail bolt and extends rearwards to within about an inch of the rear of the pan where it has then begun to head across the rear inboard corner. I've grounded myself until I can fix it. Probably rivet a doubler across the bend on the outside, having stop-drilled the crack - I don't particularly relish the idea of de-riveting it, so will try for an in situ repair first. I'll let CC know tomorrow. It's probably a one-off, but wouldn't hurt to check yours, as it's not something one would think to inspect during regular maintenance. I "only" weigh 92kg and never drop into the seat, but lower myself elegantly, so I'm thinking the bending process may have work hardened it - the crack (in the floor pan) 😬 is in the area of greatest load. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

What is it that activates the lever on the RB's? Is it just a Bowden cable or is there some sort of linkage? I fitted a Jenvey throttle linkage to my Duratec TB's which has some adjustment for ineffective crank angle - giving a greater or lesser ratio between throttle pedal movement and butterfly movement at whichever end of the travel you decide. I've set mine - as much as it can be, because it's not infinitely variable - so that at small butterfly opening there is a large pedal movement and vice versa at large butterfly opening. Sounds like you need to reduce the gearing at small roller opening. Jenvey sell a whole host of mounting brackets to suit just about any configuration, but I decided to make my own linkage mounting bracket. If it were me I'd try to come-up with my own solution rather than wait for one - but that's me BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

'kin 'ell, just about says it all. It was only a late afternoon, "I wonder if anything will fall off" test, but extended to 90 minutes when all seemed OK. Upgrade from 150bhp and 137bhp 1.8 K-Series. Duratec is the one from Ammo's car with 228bhp and 175lb ft. Burbled along quite nicely with quite a lot of intake noise when the throttle was tickled. However, when given a bit more throttle - Oh my God . Started to "SING" beyond 4000rpm - no more ear plugs for me Have yet to give it full welly 😬 Thanks Ammo, Mick, Luke and Dave for all your help and advice BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

The thing I noticed after fitting 1144 pads to the front of my SV and bedding them in was it was possible to lock the front wheels quite easily if the brakes were applied too abruptly. This was previously impossible with the standard pads. However, if the brakes were applied more progressively to maximum foot force (I guess allowing weight transfer to the front) they didn't lock up. Much better than standard pads otherwise BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Before I opened it I was wondering if some wag had said 14% and lo and behold ........ BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

He is a bit of a wizz, isn't he BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Just great I hope that doesn't mean I'm going to lose the map. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I have just now powered-up the electrics for the first time after fitting a Duratec engine; the ECU came with the engine. I had my laptop connected to the ECU with the intention of introducing it to the Rover immobiliser and also saving a copy of the map. As soon as I switched on the IGN I got the following message:- THE ECU CONNECTED REQUIRES THE M3D CONTROL SOFTWARE VERSION 0.3 COMMUNICATIONS HAVE BEEN DISABLED. The ECU Serial Number is: 41641 The software I have on my laptop is M3D FOR WINDOWS VERSION 1.1 REV 5 I had a look at the Emerald website, but couldn't see any software downloads that looked appropriate. Any ideas? BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

here you go. I've just fitted mine and it's first class. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Edited by - Tony C on 24 Feb 2007 10:59:36