Tony C

Thanks CageyH, but they look square to me Thanks Kingsley. I noticed a rocker switch blank in their catalogue. but thought that may be a blank for their modular switch, rather than for the mounting hole - I'll give them a call The switch cut-out is 30mm x 22mm. Typically 🙆🏻 all the websites I've found of companies that sell blanking plugs only have 30 x 20 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Anyone know where I can buy some blanking plates for the dashboard mounted rocker switches BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Sitting there in the sump absorbing moisture from the atmosphere while the contaminants from the combustion process alter the molecular structure It's not like a sump full of new oil will break the bank. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Just had my new 4-2-1 exhaust sand blasted. Some of the scratches from manufacture are still visible, but it gives a very nice even surface which I managed to shine-up quite easily with Scotchbrite - the finish is best described as satin rather than mirror How sad am I - gave it a stroke when I passed it in the garage just now BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I was thinking about bolting the TB's in position and using my 45mm Q Max cutter on four pieces of gash aluminium and then positioning those four separate pieces accurately on the end of each TB somehow - blue tack, contact adhesive??? Then position the blank filter back plate over the end of the TB's and gash pieces, in the position required for best clearance from everything and/or centred on the TB's. Contact adhesive on the back plate will stick the gash pieces to it. Then release the gash pieces from the ends of the TB's. I now have a really accurate template for the Q Max cutter on the filter back plate. __________________________________________ I'm thinking about the inherent inaccuracies with merely marking out the positions of the holes on the filter back plate by transferring the measurements - it doesn't matter how accurate I am, the chances of all four holes being in exactly the correct position is remote - from previous experience of similar projects. Any experience, bright ideas or advice gratefully received BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I recognised that the limitation was going to be the collectors, so I did those first and then did the pipes to match - just finished (4.75 hrs) - and all with one long piece of Scotchbrite; matches the Raceco silencer finish too - what luck BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Naaahhh - with all the primaries sand blasted to a nice even matt finish they merely look as though they've been sprayed with light grey manifold paint. That and the welding were well worth £50 though - thank you Steve 😬 2 1/4 hours with a long strip of Scotchbrite has them now with a nice smooth brushed finish, not going to bother to polish them to a mirror finish BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I think the advice to connect the -ve to a suitable earth rather than the -ve post on the battery is that if you get a spark it won't be in the vicinity of any hydrogen gas being given off by the BANG! BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

So nobody has experience with keeping a sand blasted exhaust clean BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I don't know the type of shot/sand/bead, it's what they use to clean the cylinder cooling fins on the aero engines (Lycoming). The finish is VERY smooth but matt. It certainly gives it an atractive/utilitarian look. When he finishes the primaries I'll make an assesment - he's only done the 2-1 collector so far. He's a bit of a craftsman - he wants to re-do the 2-1 collector because it was all covered with finger marks. As I mentioned it's nearly the same finish as the titanium on Ammo's silencer. I'll see if I can give it a shine on an unexposed when fitted portion - to see how easy it will be BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I found a similar thing when I did my lower front wishbones. I used the full collection of POR recommended degreaser etc. The first coat of POR 15 (Grey) did have a slightly wrinkled finish, but as I'd followed the instructions exactly and couldn't be 🙆🏻 to go through the whole procedure again (lazy bum), I just gave it another coat and then applied the chassis black. It looks fine when finished. Mind you, the lower wishbone isn't exactly smooth to start with and I keep it covered in Waxoyl too 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Just had one of the guys at work weld a 3" extension on the exhaust exit pipe so one of Ammo's beautiful silencers will line up nicely with the seatbelt bolt at the attachment bracket and he had shot blasted the extension because it was such a ratty looking piece of pipe. Upon gentle enquiry he assured me he could shot blast the headers and the other collectors too (Don't worry Ammo, not the silencer). The exhaust came in a raw tube state complete with printed pipe specification and all the bend/draw marks. I was wondering how best to clean it up and intended to have a go with some Scotchbrite. I thought the shot blasted finish would be easier to polish, but I'm now wondering if I could leave it shot blasted - the finish is a light matt grey and quite smooth. It's not that far off the finish on the titanium silencer. Anyone else done this? I don't particularly want a shiny finish, just smooth and easy to keep clean 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

If it is nearly stripped, do you want it to pop out when you're driving along I know it's not something you want to do, I wouldn't either, take it out and have a look at it. If you're quick getting your thumb over the hole you shouldn't lose too much fluid. Have a new bleed nipple ready at hand to replace it if it is even slightly nackered - if it is damaged I hope it's the nipple and not the thread in the caliper - oh aren't I a happy soul I always put some PTFE tape around my nipple threads before putting them in - helps prevent air leaking down the thread when bleeding. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

MAK, have a look here for some info, probably too much, on corrosion. Corrosion can be minimised, not prevented. Even if seam sealer is used there is air trapped in the joint and air contains moisture - BINGO, a battery. I spent 17 years as an aircraft mechanic and believe me, those aircraft manufacturers know a thing or two about corrosion - it is a constant battle, despite ALL the preventative measures employed, plus frequent maintenace. It's almost as if metal has a life of its own; as soon as it's dug out of its hole in the ground it is constantly trying to get back there BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Edited by - Tony C on 13 Feb 2007 06:56:10

A method for preventing galvanic corrosion hasn't been discovered yet. It's occurrence can be minimised however. Fretting of mating surfaces can easily remove any protective coating, so a paste applied during manufacture or maintenance can help by insulating the mating surfaces BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Have a look here for tapping an M3 female thread. An M3 bolt has a nominal (outside) diameter of 3mm. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Dave, I'll e-mail you a diagram of the alternator socket connections with colour coding. The "Crossbar" pin isn't used; the right hand "Upright" goes to the warning light and the other is the 12v sense to tell the voltage regulator in the alternator to stop raising/lowering the voltage and should be connected to an Ignition switched 12v supply. The large post should be connected by a big brown wire to the same post on the starter motor to which the battery +ve lead is attached. Don't understand what you mean by a Duratec coil to Emerald. I got the "Whole nine yards" from Karl at Emerald as to the Emerald/Duratec engine loom/chassis wiring interface - e-mail me BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Looks like that to me too BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I think perhaps I don't understand properly. I thought you were talking about a locking toggle switch, as illustrated on the Demon Tweeks web page you have in your first post. You now seem to be discussing a guarded toggle switch - one with a flip-up guard. These are two completely different items. The gaurded switch is prevented from moving with the flip cover down - usually the OFF position. To make the circuit to which it is connected live, you flip the cover up and move the toggle switch it is guarding. The cover is spring loaded in the up position, but can be snapped into the down position with the flip of a finger; it will move the toggle switch to open the circuit as it closes. A locking toggle switch has no guard - it is prevented from inadvertant movement by having spring loaded detents which must be physically overcome by a definite action by the operator. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

All the ingnition switch does is pull-in a relay. Mine works fine. I bought mine from Aerco direct. The whole purpose of a locking toggle switch is that it is HIGHLY unlikely to be activated by accident - it can't be moved without first pulling it out and it has a good spring to overcome 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

See additional P/N above. Don't know exactly which mine is 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Got mine direct from Aerco here in 2003 and it cost £38.19 inclusive of VAT and P&P. P/N: 1TL1-2D "Switch Toggle - Locked out of centre position" BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I use a lock toggle switch for my ignition. I could look up the P/N when I get home - ISTR it didn't cost quite that much although not cheap BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Super Stock Hose end fitting -6 straight. P/N 700167ERL or Auto-Mate & Auto-Crimp -6 straight. P/N 700106ERL Mine has a plain metal crimp collar though. Not something you'd want to try crimping with just a pair of pliers. This from the UK catalogue, but I expect the US P/N would be the same. Earls at Silverstone had the hose cutter and swaging machine and did the job for me while I waited - less than 5 minutes BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Edited by - Tony C on 7 Feb 2007 19:26:50

Ideal solution - I think Took my standard K-Series flexible fuel pipe along to Earls at Silverstone this afternoon and they cut the pipe at the fuel rail fitting end and swaged on the required -6JIC female fitting. Looks a good job too. In the end I didn't really like the idea of cutting off the end of the copper pipe and reflaring it with a new fitting. Top marks to Mark Slater at Earls who only charged me a tenner for the -6 fitting and the professional swaging - highly recommended 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)