Tony C

Cor - that looks familiar 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Non of what you're saying is crap. There is a correlation between state of charge, SG and off-load voltage - on paper, as you have listed. However, using the off-load voltage you record from the battery fitted to your car to give an accurate indication of the overall condition of your battery is open to error because there are so many variables involved - state of charge, how long it's been off charge and outside air temperature, to name a few; each of which can give rise to a false indication. I spent several weeks in the battery shop at British Airways during my Apprenticeship and have recently checked my understanding with the battery shop technicians at Oxford Aviation. A hydrometer is used to record the SG of each cell hourly during the charge and the charging current is monitored. At the end of the charge and rest period, the SG of each cell is checked and then the battery is given an on-load test. When I enquired about the efficacy of an off-load test I was told they don't bother because the difference in voltage from fully charged to useless is so narrow that it's too easy to misinterpret. Frequently it's just one cell that starts to deteriorate, which is what makes the SG of each cell so useful. The off-load voltage might be 12.6V, but the on-load test will show the battery is knackered. The bottom line, as I see it, is that the off-load voltage/state of condition is a theoretical fact, but is not reliable and definitive in practice and not used by professionals when taking care of lead-acid batteries. Just to set the record straight, I wrote the 7FAQ battery article, but removed my name from the bottom after Chris W adjusted it without asking me first if it was OK BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Check-out the Battery article in 7FAQ here Among other gems, it highlights the shortcomings of relying too much upon the off-load voltage. Plus or minus 1/2V is relying on the accuracy of a voltmeter a bit too much IMHO. Variations in OAT and how long it's been off charge can make the off-load voltage practically useless. The on-load voltage is definitive and is used as a reliable indicator by professional battery maintenance staff BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

In my opinion, unless it's just been charged all you'll see is about 12V off-load. It's the on-load voltage that tells the story BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

The off-load voltage (Approx 12V) doesn't tell you anything worthwhile about the state of your battery. A much better indication is the on-load voltage which shouldn't be below 9V. Might need a helper while you crank. BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

When I had mine deteriorate after just three years Simon Lambert asked me to return the old one to them so they could investigate - unfortunately it had already been thrown away. I bought a new one from CC and it seemed to be made from a slighly different material. If anyone else has a similar problem, it wouldn't hurt to send it back to CC for them to have a look at BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Completely agree with Talking to Gary at Freestyle - top bloke I fitted adjustable dampers and springs (Road) from Freestyle and the handling and ride is vastly improved. I went for slightly longer springs than standard on the front and 2" longer springs than standard on the rear to provide 85mm under the sump when loaded and 15mm rake - I know some will consider this much clearance is sacrilegious, but I'm fed up tapping the sump on speed bumps and the lowered drivers floor on bumpy roads. I've always considered the stance of my SV looks as though the back is too low - it now looks right. I've not noticed any loss of handling, in fact my confidence is now improved when cornering. Gary is very willing to merely chat and offer good advice and to make springs to order if required. BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I don't think that's correct 😬 The weight of the car is trying to push the spherical bearing deeper into its seat. Agree about the "Bearing Fit" sealant though - don't want the bearing outer race to rotate in it's seating. BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

As the relay is closing, check for 12V at the solenoid end. My spade connector appeared firm when sliding it on, but was slightly loose when seated IYSWIM. If it's not that it's the starter solenoid not pulling in. This could be battery charge state. Or the solenoid sticking. BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

If you heard the same clicking sound with the thin wire removed from the solenoid, that's not the solenoid making the click, it will have been the relay inside the MFRU (Black wedge shaped plastic thing near the ECU). BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Check the thinner signal wire to the solenoid. It's a spade terminal at the solenoid end. mine used to give intermittant contact - the click you're hearing might be the relay rather than the solenoid. If the spade isn't gripping tightly enough it will sometimes not give you a start. BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I used a Q Max cutter - Cover area with masking tape to mark-out hole required and use the Q Max to nibble right up to the line. Worked a treat on mine with no skin distortion BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

1/2" You did fit longer bolts. I only used two large diameter washers, but longer bolts too; to get the entire mounting thread length engaged with the bolt. BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Hope that's not the kiss of death 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I'm pretty sure they're 1/2" UNF BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

My lower wishbone bearing failure was due to migration of the PTFE liner rather than contamination. I decided to replace the wishbone complete rather than just the bearing because corrosion had pitted the bearing housing giving too much clearance and making the bearing outer race free to rotate. The one on the drivers side is still OK after 46,000 miles, so I guess that mileage is not the only factor. I've now smeared grease on the top to prevent water going in deciding to accept the disadvantage of possible grit contamination. BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I found the play in mine with the front up on axles stands with both wheels off the ground. Lift up on the wheel; there should be no discernable vertical movement in the lower wishbone bearing. If it goes clonk clonk 🙆🏻 BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I've been looking into oil temperature lately. The information in the "Think Automotive" catalogue is quite comprehensive - the bottom line being: "Every engine will have a different oil temperature requirement but, as a general rule, temperatures in excess of 110 C should be avoided" I have a mechanical oil temperature sensor fitted at the oil pump inlet in my Duratec wet sump (I've checked the gauge as accurate in boiling water) and see 80 C while pootling around, rising to 100 C when pressing-on. I expect to see higher oil temperatures when the OAT increases. "Think" mentions that without oil cooling the maximum oil temperature should be sensed i.e. the oil in the sump. (This seemed a bit strange to me at first, but apparently, modern engines use the oil to cool the piston crowns, after which that oil would return almost immediately to the sump). With an oil cooler the temperature of the oil going to the first big end bearing should be sensed. BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Depends on the type of connecter, but it was possible to remove the pins from the ones on my 2003 SV. One of those small jewellers screwdrivers slid down the pin groove should release the clip holding the pin - a bit fiddly, but do-able BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Quick - rush straight out (in your tintop) and buy a lottery ticket - you are bound to win with that amount of luck - unless you've used up your entire lifetime suppy during the drive home with fuel spraying everywhere BRG Brooklands SV 2.0L Ammo Duratec 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

As the title says. Any condition - I'm trying to make an airbox for my 2.0L Duratec and need an old air filter to badger and only really need the attachment frame Contribution to ntl if you have an old one lying about. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Edited by - Tony C on 18 Apr 2007 09:02:09

I too am interested in an airbox for a Duratec with Raceline TB's and 90mm trumpets. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Well wrapped up - screen and doors 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Just managed to get through to CC spares eventually and apparently the spec' has been changed recently to give a bit more clearance of the nut hex from the bearing BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Anybody recently built a 7 with widetrack front suspension (SV) or replaced their lower wishbone. The new cut-down nuts I've just recieved from CC are different to the ones I have. My existing nuts are turned down for about half their length to a diameter that is a nice snug sliding fit inside the spherical bearing. The ones I've been sent have a step in the turned-down portion; the smaller diameter on the end is a bit too small and the larger diameter next to the hex is a bit too big for the bearing. I'm trying to check with CC, but can't get through to parts at the moment. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)