RiF

Thanks matt and David for your kind offers. Will see what I can get from my mirror company and may be back. As to MOT, I have never had or heard of any problems with the usual aeroscreen mirrors that are smaller than 100cm2. Depends on jobs worth as usual I expect RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

Thanks David but I think a bit big and heavy for the aero *wink* Steve, interesting thought. I had wondered about not using an aero but would still need to mount some form of mirror or two. Don't really want to drill more holes in the scuttle. I can buy a set from Raceparts but only want them for 1 day (or hopefully so). Gather our standard ones are hit and miss due to size RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

Anyone got a set kicking around? RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

Give me a call on 013873 75777, I have various seconds in front wings RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON Edited by - RiF on 8 Apr 2008 13:26:11

back now 😬 Thanks for everyones support on the subject of aeros Think everything has been said to answer the various questions. Carbon mirrors are just starting to trickle through and back orders hopefully will be fulfilled shortly. I keep kicking Racetech to assemble them. RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

Soon Just about to make one 😬 in the next week or so RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

We have composed the following: NOTES ON FITTING CYCLE WINGS These instructions are given in good faith only, as a guide on the methods available for the mounting of cycle wings onto the metal wing stays. Secure mounting is vital as a wing will be a dangerous object if it becomes detached. Preparation is the most important part of mounting. Look at your surface preparation and be sure that whatever you are assembling with does not have a recognisable failing point (e.g. Powder coating). Goodville Engineering do not take any responsibility for failure or damage caused. Firstly you will need to determine the correct position of the wing on the wing stays. Use a small piece of insulation or masking tape to mark the rough positions of the wing stays on the wings. To make fitting easier, now remove the wheel. Replace the wing and align to your desired position (see your markings on the tape). With a felt tip pen you can now mark the inside of the wing along either side of the wing stay and remove the tape. Do remember to double check that the wing is sitting on the wing stay correctly and is symmetrical from all directions. Method 1: SECURE WITH BOLTS. A very simple and effective method. We advise that a small piece of rubber or a rubber washer be placed under the head of the bolt before it passes through the wing and is secured with a nyloc nut. The bigger the head of the bolt, the less likely there will be for the wing to be damaged around this mounting point over time. It is advisable to stick some self adhesive foam strip to the edges of the wing stays in contact with the wings. This will reduce vibration and movement. Method 2: GLUING DIRECTLY TO THE WING STAY. This method can have several problems. Firstly, you will not be able to detach the wing easily in case of damage (a cheese wire will cut through the adhesive if needed). The other problem is that the joint will be only as good as the painted or powder coating on the wing stay. Over time this surface finish is likely to fail with all the vibration, corrosion, etc. To fi,t simply abrade along the lines you have marked on the wing, and also around half the wing stays diameter (based on either side of the point of contact). Then make 100% sure it is clean, dry and dust free. To make a neat job it is worth putting some masking tape on the areas that you want protected (along the lines of where you have abraded). It should be noted that you want at least 15mm width abraded across the wing. Apply mastic adhesive Terostat 939 in black (supplied by us, see note below on opening) to the surfaces. Use a blunt butter knife to smooth out. Press wing lightly into place. You need to apply enough pressure to squeeze a small amount of adhesive out but not so hard that there is no adhesive left in contact where the stay touches the wing. Smooth out the mastic so that it creates a U shape from wing . In other words the sides of the wing stay become flat with excess adhesive. You can smooth this very sticky adhesive out with a strong soap solution or saliva. Be very careful where this sticky adhesive gets deposited as it is very difficult to remove off any surface. If in contact with a carbon surface then we suggest wipe off as much as possible with dry tissue and then use soap and water. On other surfaces acetone will help to clean. Method 3: BIGHEAD TYRAP SYSTEM. Abrade the back surface of the plate that will be in contact with the wing. Using small cable ties secure 2 of the Bighead fasteners to each wing stay in a suitable location. Place wing on top and align. Mark onto the wing where the Bighead is in contact with the wing. Thoroughly abrade a surface slightly larger than the Bighead plate on the wing. Make sure the Bighead and the abraded surface on the wing is clean, dry and dust free. Apply adhesive to the Bighead and the wing, making sure you are wetting the surfaces as you go (not just squeezing a bead that is not sticking to the surface). Place wing onto the Bigheads, align and lightly press. Make sure the wing is held in place using either masking tape or insulation tape to stop it moving. Remove excess adhesive and spread an even amount over the top of the Bighead where it has come through the perforations. Leave for a minimum of 24 hours but preferably longer. When hard cut off the small cable ties. It is advisable to stick some self adhesive foam strip to the edges of the wing stays in contact with the Bigheads. This will reduce vibration and movement. Remount the wings using the slightly bigger cable ties. These should loop in and out between either side of the Bighead loops and not wrap underneath the wing stay. Method 4: As above but with an ADDITIONAL PLATE stuck over the top of the Bighead to sandwich the Bighead perforated plate in place. These can be glued in place once the Bighead is fully glued and hard, prior to re cable tying on. To do this you will need to have made sure that the excess adhesive spread across the perforated plate is not too thick or lumpy, in other words just a minimum thickness left prior to cure. In addition when first abrading the wing, the patch that you are rubbing will need to be slightly bigger, in other words the size of the sandwich plate. When gluing use excess adhesive and press firmly into place. Be careful that this plate is not sticking up too much, stopping you installing the cable ties. CHOICE OF ADHESIVE for method 3 and 4 We offer a choice of adhesives. The Terostat is basically a liquid rubber, extremely tough and flexible. We use this for industrial uses and to glue panels onto the 7, assembly of rear light blocks, etc. Sticks well to almost everything. There are other adhesive mastics available from other manufacturers. TEROSTAT 939: To open the cartridge, tap the metal sealing plate inwards (at the wider end of the tube). Remove the granules that are there to absorb moisture and with a screw driver just press back and smooth out the lip from removing the plate. To open the nozzle end, simply tap the pointed end of a plastic nozzle into the small hole, to break the aluminium sealing. Withdraw and wipe nozzle before screwing onto the cartridge and cutting a slant of the desired size to the nozzle. These cartridges should fit in a normal cartridge gun. This adhesive mastic cures with humidity and temperature although neither should be forced. As a guide at normal humidity at 20 degrees C it will cure at a rate of approximately 3mm depth in 24 hours. For areas that are thicker it will take considerably longer. We would suggest a minimum of 3 days but ideally 7 days for the adhesive to cure. EASI-STICK: For rapid assembly. This is basically using an alternative adhesive to the Terostat 939. Both methods 3 and 4 are the same but this glue is a fast setting, 2 part adhesive called Easi-stick that we use for assembly of aeroscreens. This is manufactured by our company. This adhesive allows a certain degree of flexibility but gives the impression it is rigid. The disadvantage is that we are unsure as to the durability when gluing a thin and flexible wing in place that will have a considerable amount of pressure and vibration placed on it over the years. From all of our tests it is good and the cable ties seem to break first. Again preparation is of paramount importance. Follow the instructions supplied with the adhesive. We would advise that you only glue one set of Bigheads at a time. This glue will gel in 20 minutes at 20 degrees, hard within 2 hours although full cure will need 24 hours. RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

Caterham said a litre was enough when I brought some the other day! Now I have to get more to finish the job ☹️ Definitely more than 1 lt. RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON Edited by - RiF on 24 Mar 2008 19:02:29

YHM RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

I will want one soon but no spare money at the second ☹️ got to finish Henrietta's seven first before I build my new car, I have the chassis 😬 If you don't sell it quickly then I will be interested. RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

Yes and hopefully you received my reply RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

Pleased to give my advice, give me a call 013873 75777 but not between 3 and 4.30 today. RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

Very interesting I have been trying to research buying film and found the one in the Club discounts "Rhino...." seems to have stopped trading, Venture films were rude and just did not want to sell, Armourfend too expensive, 3M I need to spend £6000+!!!! I will contact PPG, their prices look good. RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

Or I supply one In black £13.78 plus £4 P&P RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

Thanks for all the replies I have received (many direct). Seems it is the same. Rob, it is for a Donkervoort but thanks for your concern 😬 RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

Don't suppose with all the power of Blatchat anyone knows if the output of a Borg Warner T5 Sierra Cosworth type gearbox is the same as a Type 9? Need to know for supplying a propshaft if the spline shaft is exactly the same (length, diameter, number of splines, etc.) Fro the internet I think it is interchangeable. Thanks RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

Steve, sorry, one of those really bad days yesterday where everything went wrong including my laptop. No time except to quickly post my reply. Problem with t-cut on out shiny surface is you can never get it back to the same shine. I have tried and it just makes it look terrible. Also the t-cut goes into any holes and goes white. Hope all is well Steve, all the best RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

We do not recommend Mer bumper polish as it will make it look good to start with and then worse very quickly especially with water (water soluble). I find silicon based plastic polish (vinyl or trim sprays) or even silicon spray the best so far. But don't try an laquer afterwards!!! I don't think CC laquer the dash, far too expensive. What you are removing is decomposed resin on the surface. Not a problem and I think all interior trim cleaners are ok but do put something back on to reduce UV attack that ALL carbon composite suffers from. Must rush as I have computer problems and family illness RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

ALL epoxy carbon composites decompose with UV. Just some goes quicker than others due to many reasons. One is quality of manufacture but mainly due to the chosen resin system. Our production leaves a very slightly resin rich surface and hence will stay shiny for longer. A lot of prepreg has the fibres very close to the surface and hence it takes less time for the uv to eat the resin away. Lacquer is a solution but then on rear wings it will be chipped more easily with stones. We do not recommend Mer bumper polish as it will make it look good to start with and then worse very quickly especially with water (water soluble). I find silicon based plastic polish (vinyl or trim sprays) or even silicon spray the best so far. But don't try an laquer afterwards!!! To get a good finish on laquer you will need someone who knows what they are doing. It needs many coats and much prep between coats. Must rush as I have computer problems and family illness RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

DO NOT USE T-CUT. Best thing is black polish, for boot/shoe or plastic polish. Sorry to hear.

But I could buy it for my new build. Been 2 1/2 years since buying the chassis so far and it now has less on it than when I brought it Just not 100% decided on going Duratec yet but if I do, I would go supercharged. Decissions are so hard RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

I know I should not ask this, the wife will kill me but what would be involved with fitting it to my 2lt standard bodied Duratec 7?????? RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

Your new tunnel top will help 😬 I never use my heater anymore 😬, cooler in the summer, warmer in the winter, perfect RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

Thanks chaps. The ECU won't have a good enough earth through the scuttle as it is onto carbon I will fire her up very soon so will see how it goes. Yes there is an internal earth anyway. RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

On a Rover 1.6 standard build ECU, should the outer casing be earthed? With the wiring loom there is a group of earths that come together, I have put those to the battery but saw someone had them to the ECU casing in a picture recently. RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON