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Hi All, Sorry I am a bit late on seeing this subject but working in Belgium at the moment for 3 weeks. I am planning on building a Duratec se7en. I am trying to do the figures and confirm how best to order the components. Over the past year I have been in contact with Raceline but parts have not been ready. Seems they are just about there now, just the waterrail to go into production. New development is the dry sump in tests. They say standard engine 2lt with throttle bodies produces 185 bhp and with a cam change it is 210 bhp. Gather these are varified figures. Further power to be developed once they have completed one step of modifications and tested them. I would like to hear from anyone else that is also thinking or planning a new sev7en powered by a Duratec engine so that we can compare the best route and kit parts required. Chris (Clark) if you read this I am the person who was with the yellow se7en from France at the Holiday Inn Express for the International. Hello. Could you ask Mick Attree to e-mail me so I could pick his brains on his Duratec car, please. E-mail: sales@goodville-engineering.com Hope to hear from more Duratec enthusiasts soon, Richard in France (well Belgium then!)

Arnie, What is the advantage of a bag tank? Should I be thinking of this for my new car spec? Is K2RUM repaired yet? Richard in France

Hello Mark and Rodders, I was looking last year into building a LHD. When I went to order with cheque in hand from Caterham they let me in for a big suprise!!!! A surcharge of £1000 for LHD. No mention before on any of their corespondance. Told them where to go and brought a RHD secondhand instead. May still buy a LHD kit now I know exactly what I want next year. I shall be going for the Raceline Duratec engine with exhaust on RH side. More reliable than the K series engine. Gather easy to do LHD version. Good luck Richard

Hi Dave, Thanks for your e-mail regarding your damaged chassis. Think I need to speak to you to find out more. My number is 01424 812516. This will get diverted to me in France at our cost. I am around most of the time. Thanks Richard in France (Richard Lee) Tried your e-mail address but does not seem to work, so trying through the club!

Just to say thanks to all your replies. Chelspeed was right, it was a fuse. Just seemed so stange when the light switch lights works when you turn the switch on but does not luminate with the lights on. On investigation the drivers side, side lights were not working although dip and main beam was! One fuse and a few damaged fingernails solved the problem. The fuses look simple to get at but are imposible to get out! Thanks all, Richard

Thanks Chelspeed, I shall check the fuses. I know I still had dip lights but rather hard to check rear lights with a harness on! I did not look at the side lights. Will look this weekend. Richard.

Just set off for my first track day early on Saturday and out go all of the instrument lights. Speedo, Rev counter and all the switch lights. Everything else still working. Had the problem with the indicators the other week and as someone explained the other day here, by switching the hazard lights on and off cleans the contacts on the switch and all was well. Is this the same? I have tried but did not work! Any help welcomed. Oh what fun having a se7en!! Track day and car was excellent, driver (me) has a lot to learn!

Does anyone have an old rusty or bent chassis or even some body panels that are corroded? I can probably collect if in the southern half of England. I want to try an idea out for making a se7en more durable to corrosion, without taking my present car to bits. Not too expensive please.

In reply to Fast Westie I am in North West France area 49, near to Angers. About 1 1/2 hours from Le Mans. Are you in France? Re the pipes. Oh another problem! Heater needs different shape pipes than the ones Caterham sold me, so ordered silicon elbows of the same diameters. Yes you guest it they are different diameters to the heater. Now re ordered reducing elbows, so delay in bleeding. Thanks everyone, I will look at suggestions on bleeding. Richard

Thanks Allen for your advice. Tryed to undo those bolts but gave up and rung Caterham today. Bad news for you. You only had to undo that one bolt and lever the thermostat housing off. Only one small cut. Hose was still difficult to put on. Now the only thing left to do is to put the thermostat housing back on! Will this be as simple? Richard

Thanks for the information on the screen. I shall investigate further. BUT really stuck on this one heater pipe. Anyone any other ideas? If I can remove the water pump then I reckon I could get the pipe on, but as I have not got a workshop manual on the K engine yet, not sure how it comes off. Why is nothing ever straight forward on cars? And I wanted to build one from kit!!!!

Just started my first proper job on a seven! already have a problem, and its only on changing the heater pipes! It is a K series 1.6, 1997 model. I have the silicon hoses from Caterham. Problem is the end that goes onto the water pump. The water pump has a wider aperture than the diameter of the silicon hose. I am referring to the main pipe not the smaller diameter pipe. Space is zero so cannot work it on. Do I need to take the pump out? If so, is it just the one bolt with the dip stick attached and a lever out? I also wanted to remove a windscreen support bolt (allen key type) to put on a side mounted tax disc holder. How much force will this bolt take? What's the other side? I felt that I would possibly snap bolt or rip out the allen key hole if I add any more pressure! Thanks in advance,

Just got some rubbercoat for my 7. the number you want is 01943870148. The company is Carlife in Leeds. Price 25.50 for 2.5 kg. hope this is of use. PS Hope this works as this is my first e-mail to the pages and it has taken 8 goes!!!!