RodW

Seem to recall, but not certain, that a 3/8 square drive fits it - but a very tight fit except for the very slimmest of ratchets.

Any help please? Search is not available at the moment and Plugs awaiting checking. Thanks RodW

Can anyone please tell me the correct gap for a standard 1.8 K, (2001 so I presume an EU3 engine)? Thanks Rod W

Go to their web site which will allow you to e-mail them requestin local stockists. they will reply quite promptly - at least the did to me.

Am draining out nasty Bluecol coolant to replace with lovely Coldstream in my 1.8K Roadsport. Have taken out radiator drain plug (at bottom)and bleed plug (top), with heater in "on" position. Only 3.6 litres have come out - build manual says system with heater takes 5.5 litres. I have flushed out with running water from a hose, but presumably there is tap water lurking in system. How do I get rid of this before refilling? Do I need to? I can't find a drain plug on the cylinder block. Will jacking up the back end help? Is turning the engine over a few turns with immobiliser on to pump out remainder a really daft idea? Help please.

Pray enlighten me - what is the problem with ethylene glycol coolants? Are they simply less efficient, or have they been shown to damage K engines?

Floowing recent starting probs (thanks to all who gave help) it seems that I need a battery conditioner. Searched on this site and came up with two -Optimate and Airflow. Rang Shadowfax engineering to order an Optimate to be greeted by a sales person genuinely trying to be helpful: "If it's for a car you need an Accumate." - But its a Seven and I think they are motorcycle batteries. - "But a car battery will need the bigger eyelets and the higher charging rate of the Accumate". - But I think the Seven owners who have bought one have bought the Optimate. - "The Optimate is for people with motorbikes and cars. The Accumate is for cars." etc. etc. Advice/recommendations, please. RGW

Thanks to all so far. ECU fuse was blown and have replaced it with a 25 amp (why if 20 is too low do Caterham fit it? Do Ineed to look for the cause of the fuse blowing in the first place?) Unfortunately, car still does not start - fuel pump starts up but starter does nothing - on turning the key all I get is a click. RGW

Car is 2001, 1.8 K De Dion. Tried to start it this morning; ignition light came on, usual short buzz/whirring noise as fuel pump primes, but then on further turn of ignition key only a small click - starter not turning at all. On subsequent attempts no buzzing/whirring, just small click and nothing from starter. Car has not been run for a couple of weeks, but there is life in battery (headlamps light and battery charger only showing 2 amp charge rate when connected). Inertia cutout switch is in correct position. Any advice on likely cause or where/how to begin looking much appreciated - sun is shining at the moment! ☹️ RGW

I seem to recall that on mr car (2001 Roadsport) the brake light switch is in the pedal box. I think it can be adjusted slightly by moving the lock nuts along the threaded section of the switch body relative to the part of the pedal that pushes onto it. Not a very good explanation, but I'm sure that if you take the top of the pedal box to have a look inside all will become apparent.

Can noone offer any help on this? Thanks RGW

Edited by - RodW on 28 Jul 2002 23:07:39

A few questions relating checking torque settings as part of a spanner check. Any advice would be much appreciated. Car is 2001 1.8 K Roadsport . 1. How do you manage to fit a socket, torque wrench etc on the front upper damper bolt when it is so inaccessible in its little bracket? What combination of socket and adaptations makes this possible? 2. Similarly, what can be used on the front upright top ball joints - a deep socket seems required but then the torque wrench doesn't fit. 4. What is the correct torque for the rear upper damper mount; the text in the build manual (6.2 para k) says 40 lbft, but the table in section 6 says 60 lbft. 5. Similarly, what is the correct torque for radius arm to the de Dion tube; text in manual says 60 lbft, table says 35 lbft. 6. Are bolts/fixings which have ben loctited (e.g. prop shaft, rear upper damper bolts)best checked visually and by feel; i.e. don't torque them, on the basis that any movement of the thread will break the loctiting? Have to go now - sun has come out. RGW Edited by - RodW on 28 Jul 2002 16:06:36

There is a plate with such details on the case, but it is on the top of the diff case. It can be easily seen - but first you have to remove the tunnel top and then the ally plate fastened over the rear of the transmission tunnel, butting up to the seat back. This plate is usually riveted, but I was lucky as mine was fastened with self tappers.

Nottingham did mine last October - long waiting time for weekends at Derby. Despite being very late due to getting timing wrong for trip from John Noble's, Chesterfield (I did ring en route to grovel/explain) they were very helpful. Took the view that they give amateur self-builds priority over trade imports etc. and duly waved me through past other cars which were there before me. They were a little particular about some things, but generally wanted to pass the car, giving time for me to sort to their satisfaction: e.g. realigning headlamp beam for me, allowing me to fit hose and silicone sealant to spare wheel carrier nuts, accepting blobs of sealant over the "sharp" edges on the hinge of the driver's side screen and allowing me to get and apply a fix from Caterham on the 'phone for a misreading speedo.