charlie_pank
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Everything posted by charlie_pank
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what he said
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Yes it does sound like you're too lean. Is the fuel pump priming when you turn on the ignition? - Sorry, you said it DOES prime. So it must be that the ECU is being too stingy with the fuel on startup. Why does the ECU give you less fuel than you need? - Does it think it is warmer than it really is? Are you able to measure the resistance over the ECU coolant temp sensor and figure out what temp that is reporting? C Edited by - charlie_pank on 2 Oct 2013 17:08:16
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Well, Maine's adjusted so that when it's off it allows the wheels to turn freely. Perhaps the difference is that mine is only ever used at MOT time as I have harnesses and it's under the scuttle on the passenger side. As I have no reverse I'd notice when I put the car away if there was any extra resistance from a dragging brake!
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Using an extension bar makes it easier for you to apply more torque, but the wrench still clicks at the right torque.
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I strongly suspect that most of the problem here is down to the rigid brake lines and badly adjusted handbrake cables. I have never had to replace the rear brake pads because of wear, I've owned the car for over 10 years and I always drive it like I stole it.
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Well done, but it's important to stress that this will only help if the cause of your problem is the relay, and there are many other causes that can work in combination producing the same symptoms...
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Quoting Guy Lowe: Quoting 6speedmanual: Whilst it is very obvious when stationary and fidgeting the wheel, there is no time I have ever neen aesre of it whilst driving. So there it sits doing what it does. P Exactly my thoughts, I don't notice it when driving on road or track, it's fine so why waste money changing it Quoting James.S: The Rapfix one looks superb. That's probably why most people spend all the extra money changing to a Rapfix, because it 'LOOKS GOOD' Guy If I were going to buy one I'd probably have to wash the car too!
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Every time I've suspected play there, it has actually turned out to be play in the steering column joint above the pedal box - try re-tightening the clamp bolts there...
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If you have an FIA key that isolates everything, you'll find the battery loses almost no charge over a couple of months of inactivity. Then you don't need to bother with any of these mods.
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Quoting DJ.: 4 any other option I'm not aware of I've discussed this with a friend and he thinks the big advantage of supercharging a standard engine, is if it goes bang, you can just source another relatively cheap engine and move the charger over to that. It may be different for the Sigma, but normally if you're going to do forced induction properly you need to reduce the compression ratio and maybe beef up the crank. Which means if it goes bang, you can source another cheap engine, but you'll need to lower its compression ratio before bolting on the supercharger again.
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Wow - stuff is expensive. Replacing the K with an R1 engine cost me around £5500 all in, and that involved replacing almost the entire drivetrain, loom, instruments, cooling system etc...
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Clutch cable Brake cable full set of metric sockets full set of metric ring-spanners imperial allen keys metric allen keys torx sockets screwdrivers of various sizes multitool pipe-grips hose clamps electrical cable & chocolate block multitester o-rings tape string file cable ties breaker bar hammer tyre foam (no spare) washers, nuts & bolts a couple of litres of water/coolant small can of oil brake fluid other stuff I can't think of I should perhaps review and reduce what I take with me - it has been over a year since I finished the rebuild! Edited by - charlie_pank on 4 Sep 2013 10:02:28
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Quoting SKC: Hi Charlie Pank, This isn't a big issue. At least with the sump rigidly bolted to the engine in the car, your not trying to chase the sump round on a bench top, garage floor or the kitchen worktop (when the wife's out)!!. Best regards SKC use a vice
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All solutions have got to be easier if you just remove the sump from the engine?
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From your description it sounds very much like the clutch is not fully disengaging. That causes the symptoms exactly as you describe, 1st and reverse are the worst and the rest are fine (of course they are, it's possible to change up through the box without using the clutch at all!). You need to find out why the clutch plates aren't disengaging fully. Is the pedal travelling far enough? Are you making sure that your foot is all the way to the stop before attempting a gearchange? Is the release arm too short or bent? Is the cable stretched or is there a bubble in the fluid? etc... C
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The recommended one is a sigma I think.
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You're welcome
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As a good starting point, you could trace the wires from all the way from the TPS to the ECU then unplug each end and do some continuity testing. From reading the archives on here it seems like connections there are a common problem...
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How to block the injector ports on a Vx manifold
charlie_pank replied to keybaud's topic in TechTalk
Some rubber bungs? The manifold runs at below atmospheric pressure so it will tend to suck them in rather than blow them out. -
I reckon I got less for my 20,000 mile K-series engine than I spent on oil to lubricate it. How many of us have kept a 7 engine long enough to notice the different performances of same-spec lubricants?
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Are you overtightening the drive belt leading to premature bearing failure?
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The fact that you think the charge light is 'rev dependent' means that something is not right in your system. The light goes out when the battery is being charged, and it should go out as soon as the engine is running normally, you shouldn't have to rev the engine to make it happen. Sounds like your alternator is on the way out...
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Modeling (toy) shop
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Hmm, having done lots of things to fix the K-click when I had a K, I have to say that: 1. If you understand what you are doing, then you will be able to interpret the step-by-step instructions to make it work in your (or any) car. 2. If you don't understand what you are doing and are just blindly following the instructions then it will only work if your car is exactly the same as the one in the instructions. 3. The quickest path to understanding what you are doing is probably to have a go, and just make sure that you take enough notes to allow you to return it to its original state if you break it.
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Clamp the;flexible brake hose to isolate that caliper from the system. Only really acceptable as a get you home fix...
