charlie_pank
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Everything posted by charlie_pank
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From your description it sounds as if something in your setup is not working as it should. Rather than upgrading items, I would concentrate on finding out what it is that is causing the problem first...
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If it were just the VNT I'd be tempted to try the Mr Muscle method. But the turbo itself whistles a lot and has done 170,000 miles, so I figure it could do with a rebuild.
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Has anyone used kits like this: CHRA kit VNT kit any advice?
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Graham, the first part of the adjustment will just add preload. What happens if you keep adjusting? If you end up with a travel that is too small then he might need some beefier springs - it's the dampers that are expensive, not the springs so this shouldn't be a problem...
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In fact, I bought a car that was good for driving from here the Mongolian border for less!
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**cough** I sold my K series engine with 20,000 on the clock for less than you paid for your last service!
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If my car were ever to get driven, it would be all the faster for my 'lighweight' catch tank
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Strictly speaking, I think you need to get the MOT at your nearest station so that you don't drive a long way without MOT.
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What's the problem, just make one out of any spare vessel you've got lying around, I think mine's currently an old gearbox oil jug with a hole cut in the lid...
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Attach the breather to a catch tank. Check it periodically
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Because it is considerably easier to manoeuvre the splined shaft into the gearbox, than the engine and gearbox onto the shaft!
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Put the car in gear and the handbrake on.
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Not for my 7 but for me to diagnose a fueling/boost fault on my Accord turbo diesel. Anyone able to recommend one of the apps and dongles available?
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I had an interesting conversation with my sister-in law while she was giving me a lift in her Corsa last night. She said that she had never serviced any of her cars, nor had she paid for any service to be done. Her previous car was a Rover Metro Tahiti, and I think she did the world a favour by not servicing that so the cam-belt eventually snapped. I know that her father, who owned the Corsa before her would have serviced it like clockwork (up to 40,000m). She has owned it for a couple of years and must have done about 20,000 miles in it. How long do we think it will last without any kind of service, and what is the component that will give up first? C
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Quoting timbo: As Simon says 😬 Hayabusa engine/gearbox weight 70kg K series weight with type 9 gearbox without alt & induction 115kg As much as the weight is important its the grin on my face at 10,500 rpm. And of course the noise... You mean only 10,500 😬
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I can't remember having any issue with the diff flange on the Bailley Morris TRT. I'm pretty sure it went in after the diff. I certainly didn't have to bend the chassis to make it fit. I've made do without reverse so far, I still don't feel the need for it. IIRC the Hyabusa and all the gubbins is nearly as heavy as a K-series and only 180hp... more torque than other BECs though.
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you'd better wear your lightest pair of underpants then... If your dampers aren't working optimally, then you'll have less grip at your disposal. You're making the assumption that you're always driving only just under the maximum grip available to you at any time. You'd be doing very well if that were the case :)
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If you can't tell by driving, does it matter? :)
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Quoting oilyhands: An 8.8 bolt has a breaking strain of around 150,000lbs/sq in. I am sure they are suitable for you application. Oily That's sounds fine at first reading but they're probably mostly going to be in shear. What's the surface area of the parts of the bolt involved in the shear? As mentioned above, as the bolts are 'tougher' they can be more likely to suffer a brittle failure. Also, it's estimated that 90% of failures are fatigue rather than stress failures, so failure can occur well below 150,000lbs/sqin. :( Edited by - charlie_pank on 16 Jan 2014 13:46:52
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I have no front garden, my front door opens on to the street, so I have to dig down 750mm under my floor :(
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🙆🏻biscuits, the old supply is a mystery and is likely to be encased in concrete. To run a new one, I'll have to dig down 750 mm under my utility room (suspended) floor, drill through the foundations and dig down 750mm in the street outside to expose the pipe. Are there any tricks to this that I might not know? For example, is there a way to do the inside digging without tearing up the whole floor?
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I discovered last night that the cold water supply into our house looks very much like it is made out of lead (it is an old-looking pipe with a characteristic bulge in it, just before the joint). The point at which it emerges out of the (concrete) floor is a long way from the road where the water must come in. I have a number of questions: - should I be worried about the lead pipe? (we do not have hard water) - whose responsibility is it to replace the lead? - to replace the lead it would be much easier to bring the outside feed in to somewhere else in the house and attach it to a different part of the main-feed system (it's all 15mm). As the cold feed supplies a number of convoluted places in the house this is possible, but is there any reason why I should use the same entry point?
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I used a hall sensor originally designed for motorcycle speed-sensing and mounted it with some epoxy and a cable tie to the de-deon ear so it could watch the wheel-studs going past.
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Get an all in one instrument (like my Stack ST500), and remove all the other instruments apart from an oil pressure warning light.
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I'm afraid I have to say that my best upgrade was also the most expensive. Here's the list of mods I performed on my 2001 Roadsport: Ditched Cr322 tyres for AO21Rs 4-2-1 exhaust manifold Q/R steering wheel Emerald ECU + wideband lambda probe and self-mapping Heater (yes) Swappable aeroscreen Mech OPG Yamaha R1 engine install (limited slip diff, huge weight loss, power up to around 180hp, 6 speed sequential gearbox and 14,000 rpm redline) Unsurprisingly, the last of these was both the most expensive and changed the car from a 'quick' toy to an utterly insane monster!
