charlie_pank

I had a guy who was interested a little while ago. I made the mistake of putting my foot down when I took him for a drive. He went very quiet from that point in the drive and I didn't hear from him again. Anyone got the cahones for this car?

I use an oil syringe and top it up through the breather.

When I put my foot to the floor, it'll accelerate for a bit then I get a loss of power - it feels like it does when the rev-limiter kicks in, but it's nowhere near the rev-limit. There are no fault-codes showing on the OBD. I suspect that the fuel-rail pressure is low so when I give it some welly the injectors can't keep up for more than a few cycles. I've got a nice bluetooth OBD reader so I can monitor all the ECU stuff while I'm driving along (including rail pressure). Does anyone know what my fuel rail pressure *should* be? My gut feel is that it should be constant regardless of what happens as the fuel pump should be always working slightly harder than necessary and the rail's pressure regulation valve letting the excess through back via the return tube to the tank.

BTTT

ok, good luck with the 'engine refresh' :P

Well, I know but I didn't want to get on my soap box. Given the weight, I think they probably stop quicker too!

Could I turn you to the dark side? I have the only road-legal fuel-injected R1 engined Caterham and it is for sale in Edinburgh. I'm pretty sure it's as fun as an R500, and probably as quick...

oh dear. Didn't they want a sports-car?

Thanks for the vote of confidence :) Got any friends? :D

Well, no-one's bought it yet. Is that because it's too expensive or too fast?

R1 engined s3 in for sale section. http://www.lotus7.club/forum/sale/2001-roadsport-2006-yamaha-r1-engine

Pics here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/charlieandhelen/sets/72157650376497517/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/charlieandhelen/sets/72157650786510441/

Love the power to weight of your R500 but yearning for something more? Annoyed by how long it takes to slow down? Fed up with having to brake for corners? Want to add more lightness, but the only thing left to strip out is your engine? Curious as to what 14,000rpm feels like? Want a car that literally makes small children cry (mine) when you start it up? Then read on... Taxed and motd, 14,000 rpm superbike-eater for sale Drivetrain: 2006 Fuel injected R1 engine (180hp) Bike box (6spd sequential) Bailey Morris propshaft with torque tube Quaiffe ATB diff Yoko AO21R/185/13 Chassis: 2001 Academy Roadsport (originally with 1.6 K-series) Kawasaki Green with black pack Full cage, side intrusion bar and removeable petty strut Windscreen AND removeable aeroscreen Weather gear Heater Plumbed in fire-extinguisher Honeycomb protection in sideskin, drivers floor and fuel tank Composite seats Under-dash-handbrake Instruments: Stack ST500 for speed, tacho and shift-lights Compatible with timing beacon Other bits & pieces: oil/air heat exchanger bespoke air intake FIA battery cutout bespoke exhaust manifold Chassis mods for R1 engine by Stuart Taylor motorsport Q/R Momo Reg: S5EVN Always garaged, I am the second owner since new. Selling because I have too many other toys and not enough time. Looking for £18,000.

We lost our second son, Bertie in May 2013. Because he was ill we knew he wasn’t going to survive being born, but the maternity ward was still the safest place for Helen to give birth to him. If you’re in hospital to lose a baby, the last thing you want is to see/hear happy families and newborn babies on the maternity ward. We realised that we can solve this problem. My wife, Helen has organised with SiMBA to make some modifications to one of the rooms on the maternity ward at the Royal Infirmary in Edinburgh – it will be soundproofed and a separate entrance will be built so that bereaved parents don’t have to walk through the maternity ward to get to it. The work will cost £25,000. We’re trying to raise £10,000, the rest of the cost will be met by a private fund in memory of another baby who died. Sadly you almost certainly know someone who has lost a baby. When it happened to us, people asked what they could do to help, the answer is to donate to this appeal. It won’t help us, but it will help hundreds of other families in what will probably be their darkest days. It won’t be a surprise to those of you who know me that I don’t have enough friends to raise £10,000 so if you do want to help us with this appeal, please forward the link on to your contacts and ask them to do the same. To donate please visit this page: http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/fundraiser-web/fundraiser/showFundraiserProfilePage.action?userUrl=forBertie

Alternatively, add some lightness and be another 100yds further away after each bend!

Your car is trying to tell you to add lightness by throwing it in the bin - it should be easy now the welds have failed.

Well apart from the obvious gauge reading low; tappet noise?

Quoting Grim Reaper: Quoting charlie_pank: Your comment didn't seem relevant While I read Quoting Culminator: First thing I noticed was that compared to all the other 7's, I was really struggling to hold on over fast bumpy roads on the journey down. as he was having trouble with bumpy roads, which is what uncorrected bump steer will give. I give up. Quoting Culminator: Question is, what can I realistically expect the difference in handling on track with a softer setting? Will the car turn in easier and allow me to get power down? Quoting Culminator: I wasn't necessarily looking for advice to set the car up, or to correct a handling issue, just wanted to know what to expect in terms of change from hard rear to soft. Yawn

Sorry you feel that way. Your comment didn't seem relevant. I don't know how I could have got my point across more gently.

Very generally, by softening the rear, you will make it squat down more when you accelerate and you will also make it quicker to react to undulations in the road. This will make the rear grip more. Normally this means that you will get more understeer because the rear has more grip relative to the front. You probably need to think about the whole setup, rather than just one part in isolation...

Quoting Grim Reaper: Could also be being affected by bump steer, look into the steering rack height (type and orientation of rack supports) as they are not always right. I fitted some 9mm blocks under my rack mounts and it made a dramatic difference to how the car behaved on bumpy roads. With absolutely no intention to ruffle your cloak: just because that worked for you, doesn't mean that's what's wrong for him, or that your 9mm adjustment would be right for him.

Hmmm, it's a lot more complicated than that! I would guess that 'as stiff as they go' is not going to be right, but the previous owner must have done it for a reason... Perhaps you ought to have a think about the suspension in general - how's the rake? (Height of front axle vs. height of rear axle)

Parked on a slope in the rain? Rain comes from a different direction to normal? If the wind blows really hard from the wrong direction, the rain leaks through our roof. It has happened once in 6 years of living here.

Water in the inlet manifold

Much more likely to be a problem with a lead, coil or ECU than with the plug itself. Is there any chance that the plug-well is wet?