charlie_pank

Pics all round the car taken today: https://www.flickr.com/gp/charlieandhelen/s267H3

Getting fed up with being led on and then asked for reductions. Dropping price to £12k. If I were looking for something more interesting and fun to drive than a standard Caterham, knowing what I do now about BECs I would bite my arm off at that price...

Edinburgh

It'll have to go to a dealer if no-one buys it privately, then everyone loses out :(

Nearly sold it last year, the guy came over for a ride, and went very quiet indeed when I floored it!

https://www.flickr.com/gp/charlieandhelen/s267H3 You can't add more lightness than this: 2001 Roadsport with 2006 Yamaha R1 engine Love the power to weight of your R500 but yearning for something more? Annoyed by how long it takes to slow down? Fed up with having to brake for corners? Want to add more lightness, but the only thing left to strip out is your engine? Curious as to what 14,000rpm feels like? Want a car that literally makes small children cry (mine) when you start it up? Then read on... Taxed and motd, 14,000 rpm superbike-eater for sale Drivetrain: 2006 Fuel injected R1 engine (180hp) Bike box (6spd sequential) Bailey Morris propshaft with torque tube Quaiffe ATB diff Yoko AO21R/185/13 Chassis: 2001 Academy Roadsport (originally with 1.6 K-series) Kawasaki Green with black pack Full cage, side intrusion bar and removeable petty strut Windscreen AND removeable aeroscreen Weather gear Heater Plumbed in fire-extinguisher Honeycomb protection in sideskin, drivers floor and fuel tank Composite seats Under-dash-handbrake Instruments: Stack ST500 for speed, tacho and shift-lights Compatible with timing beacon Other bits & pieces: oil/air heat exchanger bespoke air intake FIA battery cutout bespoke exhaust manifold Chassis mods for R1 engine by Stuart Taylor motorsport Q/R Momo Reg: S5EVN Always garaged, I am the second owner since new. Selling because I have too many other toys and not enough time. Looking for £12,000.

Stack ST500 is awesome

I just called one who got all in a flap about a car with a bike engine and no reverse etc... G W Martin were great, does anyone know another in Edinburgh? C

alignment all checked, nothing wrong. Swapped driver's side wheels front-to-back... CURED!

Do you mean the steering arm? I thought the track control arm refers to the lower chassis -> upgright link. In the case of my car it's wishbones top and bottom. The lower wishbone was replaced along with the subframe. It could be the steering arm, or something in the rack. It would be likely to introduce some play in the steering though, would it not?

I don't know if it was set to OE data, but it pulls significantly regardless of camber, so I don't think this is the source of the problem.

the plot thickens: the steering wheel gets turned 90 degrees to the left when going forwards just a few yards and about the same to the right when going backwards. I think therefore it can't be the power-steering. This behaviour is consistent with either the front left bearing or brake dragging. Any other ideas?

Tread is directional!

Things we have done so far (still pulling to the left, just the same): replaced (bent) subframe and lower wishbone - we suspect they were bent when I popped a tyre in a pothole a little while ago checked alignment corrected caster Swapped wheels around front --> back Things we are going to try: jack up both sides at front and run engine to check for faulty power steering jack up and spin wheels to check for bearing failure or brake drag Any other suggestions?

That is not ok. Oil pressure should rise with revs. I know it's not the same engine, but my R1 is up around 100psi (really!) read on a mechanical gauge. If it was not like this before you changed the oil, id be inclined to suspect you disturbed something to do with the gauge when you did the oil-change. Any other instruments going weird? Earthing problem?

Are you sure your coolant sensor is telling the truth - can you take it out and test it in a pan of water with a thermometer? If it IS telling the truth then I can only conclude you have an airlock somewhere (your having tried really hard to eliminate any airlocks is not *proof* that there aren't any, it might just be a really stubborn one). You could therefore try the only method that I could employ to fill my (non-K) engine when it had been completely dried out: 1. Suspend header tank from ceiling, as high as possible 2. Open header tank cap 3. Run engine for a couple of mins (with heater valve open) 4. Wait 5. Top up 6. Go to 3 until no more bubbles appear in header tank 7. You can then run the engine up to temp without the cap on (note that you shouldn't make a habit of this as it has the effect of running the system de-pressurised, thus decreasing the boiling point) Look out for big glugs firing hot coolant out of the header tank - perhaps leave the lid on a bit. Top up as bubbles appear, continue until no more bubbles. 8. Let the whole system cool down overnight 9. Repeat.

I can't believe this is still gathering dust downstairs!

Seriously, have you considered a BEC? Looking at getting another 7 looking at a Superlight R/ R300 / R400 - Kermit is lighter with a bit over 400hp/tonne Standard equipment for most but would like the car to have: Limited Slip Diff - sequential. Clutchless upshifts not just possible but necessary! 6 Speed Gearbox - no reverse though. You really don't need reverse, if you think you do, this car is probably waaay to fast for you! Big Brakes Wide Track - you really don't need these at under 400kg Throttle Bodies FIA CAGE Dry Sump/Apollo Tank windage-plate & catch tank Tillets would be nice but not essential

Can I tempt you to the dark side?

I honestly don't understand why no-one has bitten my arm off. Is it too fast?

Given that you can pick up the engine and gearbox by yourself, I'm going to stick my neck out and say a lot less than almost every other 7 out there.

I saw some sunshine a few days ago, time to have another go at this...

everyone seems to be concentrating on insulating rather than providing more cool air. Has anyone tried a cool air intake either to the cockpit or the engine-bay?

that's an expensive non-upgrade. I appreciate you have to go through the approved builder for the sealed-engine race series, but I can't help noting that a whole 'new' R1 engine is 180hp, about 60kg lighter and about £1,000!

I haven't weighed it, so all I can say is: about 65kg less than it did as a K-series: K-series engine+gearbox: 130kg R1 genesis engine+gearbox: 65kg