charlie_pank

I don't have a heater and I don't want one, I prefer to wear 25Kg of extra clothing instead. I would like to know however what can be done about sidescreens and backscreen misting up when it's very wet (yes I know it's better without the roof, but try telling miss piggy that when it's raining!). Kermit the frog

I'm also 5-5 so I understand the problem. I found that with the seat as far forwards as it goes and the pedals as close to me as they can be there is no problem. If you then put on some shoes with even a few mm more sole you feel like there's no room at all! I agree with PC (safest option I reckon) that your clutch is disengaging too far through the pedal's movement - is this a bending job? As for not being able to H&T - that sounds like there's something wrong there, my feet are size 6 and I still have trouble not hitting all 3 peds at once - see this thread for more info --> http://www.blatchat.com/Topic.asp?topic_id=20813&forum_id=8&Topic_Title=Accelerator+position&forum_title=TechTalk Seriously though if the pedals are too far from each other then use some washers as spacers to move them to where you want.... Kermit the frog

I think the floppy idea is a very good one. Failing that I have, with relatively little effort found licence numbers and passwords for vmware on the web (and you can download the software from their site) Kermit the frog

I remember someone telling me that using a file to smooth off the first couple of mm of the "leading edge" (ie rearmost if your caliper's at the top) can stop it squeaking, but don't quote me on that. Kermit the frog

Either: 1) He's a mouse 2) He's mistaken an HGV for a 7 3) He's trying to H&T the throttle and the clutch 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 Kermit the frog

Wow! you must have the smallest feet in the world. Are you sure you're not a mouse? My feet are size 6.5 and I still struggle not to hit all 3 pedals at once!!! Having said that though, since I got my 7 I have started h&t'ing in my friend's golf too!! You just have to have double jointed knees. Kermit the frog

So what we're saying is that considering the weight of the driver (and passenger where applicable), Kermit et al. are front-engined, mid-weight cars, thus having the best handling possible? I find the handling amazing and am stunned by the roadholding around corners in Kermit, I am very, very cautious when it's wet. As I'm sure everyone is aware sevens do have a tendency to go sideways round corners if you're too heavy on the loud pedal and the road's shiny. Given the ideal weight distribution described in the last paragraph is the sideways inclination just down to the power to weight ratio of a seven? Kermit the frog

Thanks Hoopy. BTW I'm told by your new kid Rich that we work for the same company. (Are you "David M"?) Kermit the frog

Having only ever owned a soft-top mk1 golf gti and my (2001 Caterham Academy) Kermit I can't speak from experience of lots of fancy cars. I'd like to know what the relative handling differences are between different configurations - eg. Kermit - engine in the front, drive at the back. Porsche 911 - engine at the back, drive at the back. Elise - mid-engine (I think) drive at the back. How do these different configurations affect acceleration and cornering? It is my understanding that in terms of grip in a straight line, the more weight you have over the driven wheels the better, and if those are the back ones, then even better still because the rear wheels take more weight during accelration. In terms of cornering you don't want the engine at the back because the inertia makes it swing out easily (but having less weight over the back wheels means they don't grip as well too). Kermit the frog

That is very nasty, improved car security is also the reason for more car-jackings, or so I've heard. There is a point where you say "If they want it, they're going to take it" - as you point out with a trailer... So what we're saying here is it's not going to diminish my security significantly to have a switch and a button to start the car? - I'd be very surprised to have a Caterham stolen to order - has anyone ever heard of this? Kermit the frog

That's pretty cool and what I thought. So does anyone steal ECU immobilised cars any more? Kermit the frog

I'm not going to try and steal my car with this information, if I get the answer I expect, then the information about what it immobilises won't help anyone trying to steal them anyway as you would need to be able to reprogram the ECU. I was wondering about the security issues surrounding keyless ignition - I fancy having a switch and a button instead of a key (already have isolator key and Q/R steering wheel). Charlie Kermit the frog

As the ECU is responsible for deciding when the fuel squirts, and the spark-plugs fire is there any way that an immobilised K series engine can be started and driven without the immobiliser key fob? It appears to me that the key for the ignition is just a quaint tradition, rather than offering any additional security over the immobiliser. Does anyone KNOW that this is the case? Charlie Kermit the frog

Blatting along the A1(M) yesterday doing a sensible speed when I suddenly start hearing this rattly noise - the kind of sound you would imagine a very unhappy gearbox to make if teeth were clipping each other. From where I was sitting (in the drivers seat obviously) it sounded like it was coming from behind the centre of the dashboard, not lower (ie not gearbox). It made the same sound regardless of whether the clutch was engaged or not, regardless of which gear I was in and regardless of engine speed. The only thing it seemed to be dependent on was roadspeed, it got very loud indeed above 50 and dissappeared all together below 35. When I got where I was going (at 40 mph!!) we jacked the back of the car up and had a good look at the propshaft, which was in (though I say it myself) beautiful condition - didn't seem to be anything fouling it etc... . Everything in the engine bay seemed fine too. So the guy I'd come to buy some wing protectors off and I went for a quick blat and everything was fine, I've done about 150 miles since and it hasn't come back. I think it might have been: 1. a twig or a stone rattling around somewhere towards the front of the propshaft 2. the two little circlips on a couple of tubes rattling on the bulkhead just in front of the washer jets (I tightened the cable-tie before we went for the test-blat) 3. a stone in the front left wheel Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this? I think that it was most likely a stone somewhere it shouldn't be, if it was rattling around the front wheel it might sound like it was coming from behind centre dash as the wheel is beyond that from where I sit. I suspect that lifting the back of the car up or reversing out of the guy's drive dislodged whatever it was... Very happy it went away again though 😬 - I thought it was a very expensive sound! Charlie Kermit the frog (when you see Y68 YBP you'll understand)

Reset procedure for my K (according to previous owner) is switching immobiliser on and off by hand 4 times. Am I confused?! Kermit the frog (when you see Y68 YBP you'll understand)

I'll take them, just trying to figure out how I get your email address off here. Consider them sold please! - duh - just seen your mail in the first post!! Kermit the frog (when you see Y68 YBP you'll understand) Edited by - charlie_pank on 19 Aug 2002 09:49:42

Fantastic. Crazy innit I think something might be broken and get all upset about it, someone tells me it was always like that and then I'm happy. Seriously though, thanks very much. I'd still really appreciate that diagram for future reference though Charlie Kermit the frog (when you see Y68 YBP you'll understand)

Please could I have a copy of that diagram too? I'm trying to figure out whether the far left 4 switches on my dash ever lit up along with all the others when the headlights are switched on or not. And then how to make them do it again! Charlie Kermit the frog (when you see Y68 YBP you'll understand)

I'm interested in the wing protectors. Will you part with them separately from the car? Kermit the frog (when you see Y68 YBP you'll understand)

I find it's quite useful that the accelerator pedal is set further away from me than the other two, this makes it easier to feel where your foot is and also easier to H&T because the brake and the accelerator are level when you have your foot on the brake Kermit the frog (when you see Y68 YBP you'll understand)

Having read this contentious thread with much interest I was discussing it with a Jag-Driver friend of mine last night. He pointed out quite rightly that rally cars are "clutchless" and so have some kind of fluid linkage between gearbox and wheels, this means that you can rev the engine, have your foot on the break and not change the length of your car. This is great for maintaining engine speed so you can accelerate away from the corner whilst breaking into it. Needless to say, unless you have an automatic 7 (does such a thing exist?) left foot braking will not give you the advantages above! Kermit the frog (when you see Y68 YBP you'll understand)

Thanks very much Andy, these answers make me very happy, I though I'd bought a fantastic car - it certainly feels like one. You have told me the things I thought might need attention do not :) Kermit the frog (when you see Y68 YBP you'll understand)

I've had a quick look through the forum but I haven't found the answers to some relatively simple questions so here goes: 1. My diff tends to clunk as it takes up the "slack" is this ok? 2. Can someone please explain to me in words with few syllables what an anti cavitation tank does 3. As I have an anti-cav tank in a 1.6K what should I see the oil pressure doing? - It almost touches the red on idle but seems fine when revving/moving Sorry for the simplicity of my questions, I have a reasonable knowledge of 4 wheeled things, but am new to the 3 topics above! Thanks Kermit the frog (when you see Y68 YBP you'll understand)

Sold :) :) :)