charlie_pank

you can pick mine up from http://thebody.dnsalias.org/~charlie/wiring.doc C Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: there is no plan

Gimme your email and I'll send it to you when I get home Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: there is no plan

Update: Put Kermit up on axle stands and gave wheel a good tug/shake - nothing amiss there Took wheel off and had a look at disc - there were a couple of ugly looking marks and it seemed more difficult to turn through the caliper in some places than others Got some garnet paper from a model shop (tried Halfrauds and a couple of independent motor factors to no avail). Gave the whole disc a good rub down, paying particular attention to the nasty marks Put wheel back on, found that spinning it still offered more resistance through the caliper than in others Went for quick blat to find I'm back to the normal squeak from both front brakes when cold, but no juddering, so I think it's worked ok. I'm keeping the garnet paper for the next time it happens though, as I have a harness and a glove-box mounted handbrake I HAVE to hold the brakes on sometimes! BTW what is "run out" on the disc? Thanks for all your help C Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: there is no plan

For farm/occasional trailer car use Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: there is no plan

Re: "don't bother with a Rover immob if you use an emerald", - because the tea-leaf can swap his emerald for yours and stop the emerald looking for an immobiliser. Surely this argument applies to rover MEMs too, cos with a suitable map the t-l could take out the MEMs and put in his emerald anyway? C Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: there is no plan

If it is wheel "bearing adjustment", what should I do with it? I'm not very experienced with wheel bearings. BTW, the brake seemed to be actually juddering on and off - the wheel would lock and skid, then release, then lock and skid etc...(a bit like ABS!)-all at about 3 mph, it was fine when braking harder and at higher speed, does this affect your opinion about it being the bearing? Thanks Charlie The plan is: there is no plan Kermit the frog Edited by - charlie_pank on 5 Jan 2003 20:08:41

Thanks for the suggestions, I'm expecting a loose caliper or warped disk. Is there anything special I need to know about the process of removing the disk from the caliper or the caliper from the upright (and the reassembly process)?. -eg. Do I need some pipe grips to squeeze the piston back into the caliper before I can fit it back around the disk, or is this a no-no, in which case what's the better way of doing it? The plan is: there is no plan Kermit the frog

Kermit's driver's-side front brake is juddering at very low speed at a specific pedal pressure. As we slow down beyond that speed there is a persistent, repetitive squeak that slows down as the speed is reduced. I thought it might be a stone stuck somewhere, but reversing and braking normally fixes that and it hasn't made a difference this time. I'm going to take the wheel off, and probably the disk and the caliper too, is there any advice about this procedure (and reassembling) that anyone can offer before I start, so that I don't fall into any of the traps that other people have? Thanks Charlie The plan is: there is no plan Kermit the frog

Some factory-built tin-tops don't even bother with the spare wheel these days. Allegedly the tyre-weld stuff is so good there's no need.... Kermit didn't ever have a spare and doesn't want one neither! Kermit the frog

Paul, What did the water temp gauge say when the oil pressure light came on? (did it overheat?) When you try to start it does the engine turn at all? (ie has it seized?) What is it that stops it from starting - have you checked for a spark and fuel? What is the water level now? C

Can anyone explain what the symptoms are of the CRB being on the way out? I'd previously assumed that the rattling in neutral (they all do that sir) was the beginning of the end, but Hoopy says no (which I'd like to beleive!) C

The build manual tells you there is some play there, the end of the bolt is not flat (deliberately) so there is some fine adjustment of the top section of the column. I used it to get it straight when I got a new steering wheel. Be really careful doing up the bolts on the side of the clamp - 20nm - too much torque and you can shear the bolts (so I heard ). Kermit the frog Edited by - charlie_pank on 28 Nov 2002 17:48:40

that's the one Kermit the frog

There is some adjustment to be had by undoing the allen bolt between the bulkhead and the cheese-wedge. This would be simpler than all of the above meddlings. C Kermit the frog

My mate's dad filled his pride-and-joy 5.5 litre XJ12 up with diesel about 2 weeks after buying it! I only know that he did it and felt very sheepish and had to spend a lot of money to fix it, don't know what damage was done though! Kermit the frog

😬 Kermit the frog

Y does crank pulley have to come off to change timing belt? On my old car, I just loosened the tensioner and slipped off the belt. I'm sure you're right, but I'd be interested to know more why. Kermit the frog

Ta Hoopy & Peter - sorry you replied while I was typing!! Does this cam-locking-tool lock the crank too? If there are marks for each on the block/head and marks on each pulley then it would be fine, and the locking tool would just make it easier to put the thing back together. Am I right in assuming I don't need to worry about the spark cos the ECU reads the timing directly from the crank (I'm used to working with an 8v Golf GTi with a distributor run off the cam belt)? Kermit the frog Edited by - charlie_pank on 7 Nov 2002 12:01:23

This is a *theoretical* question as I don't need to change mine, it's a question I've thought about having read Ted7's problems, but I didn't want to hijack his thread. I also have a 1.6K and was wondering if there's anything difficult you need to do to replace head gasket yourself. Obviously you need to keep stuff clean etc... but given this list of components it should be easy, no? Torque wrench new head bolts new gasket the only bit I don't know how to do is *arrowright*not screw up the timing. I would be very interested to know how you make sure the timing is correct when you put it all back together. (I assume the only issue on the K is getting the cams right relative to the crank) as the spark comes from the ECU which knows where the crank is. Kermit the frog

I just unbolt the lot from underneath the car. The runners on mine stop the bolts from turning so there's no thin-armed oik required. C Kermit the frog

It's bad that Caterham sold me the wrong stuff innit? So if I go to Rover tomorrow, which is just down the road, and make sure that I get something with polypropylene glycol in it, I should be fine? Kermit the frog

Thanks PC, I'll keep my receipt and take it back to Caterham and go to my local Rover dealers to get the right stuff. I am irritated - the receptionist even asked one of the guys who claimed to know what he was talking about to come and confirm with me that it was the right stuff and just as good as coldstream! Grrrrrrr...... Kermit the frog

Just been to get some coolant and they've given me this red stuff which doesn't tell you what's in it. It says it contains "glysantin" made by BASF and following the web-trail it looks like this stuff is ethelyne glycol, which - having done my research on this site - I know to be the WRONG stuff to be putting in my K-series. Caterham wouldn't sell me any coldstream they said that this red stuff was right, but I am VERY suspicious. Has this happened to anyone else? Is this red stuff ok in my ally engine? Thanks in advance for your responses. Sorry I know there's been lots of stuff about coolant here but I couldn't find anything on this funny red stuff. Kermit the frog

Can you push start it? Kermit the frog

There we go! Thanks guys - easy when you know how. Unzipped it is - just have to make sure it doesn't all hang out! (Thanks Tarek - I have a heated screen which does a great job, it was the others that were a problem) Kermit the frog Edited by - charlie_pank on 22 Oct 2002 10:46:52