PAUL MARRIOTT

k80rum has a CATFLASH MK2 for sale in the for sale section at the moment. I've had a CATFLASH on mine for the last 5-6 years without problem - tip when fitting position so that you can acces the box to readjust the time delay. Funny thing is that since I fitted it I rarely forget to switch the indicators off manually Paul M

another vote for laminova I've a K series and have fitted th Remote PRRT so I fitted the Lam between the PRRT and Block (return side) so now get rapid warm up and oil temp regulated by stat temp at about 82degC. paul m

If you look on the lenses on the left horizontils you will see two "v"s just tape over these. I use silve duct tape, does the job and can hardly be seen. Paul M

FRICTION ❗ ❗ Wallys Certainly not by wipers on the screen, maybe the drive cable is binding but if it blows as soon as you put it on i'd look for a short somewhere, cable damage causing shorts to earth or a dodgy switch. If you've a meter check the current draw on start up and in operation to try and see what is happening. You shouldn't need a motor rated fuse for this

I second the behind option also means that you can choose to fit some of the mounting bolts through the schuttle, which for my money makes the whole thing much more solid, as the holes will be hiden by the screen when refitted. pAUL m

I can get mine out with the Apollo in place - JUST! While you have the Apollo loose you might try repositioning it just in case. Paul M

Or use mine to see if it's something you want to do. Is there anything else that needs sorting though? I've been on TBs for 5-6 years now and never had a problem with them going out of balance. Paul M

Phew 😳

Depends which Pitstone you live in..... but if it's the one near Leighton Buzzard you're more than welcome to look at mine. Paul M

My MOT inspector spotted mine and I rely on him to check it and all the rest each year so I guess once a year for me, although if I'm under the car for any reason I always give the tube and everything else a good check and vis insp. If you want to be realy thorough you could use something like this http://www.rocol.com/corp/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=409&Itemid=428 but that seems a bit over the top. PaulM

You need 4 points of support, 2 to support the chassis and 2 to support the hubs when disconnected from the DDT. A second pair of hands is useful but not essential. I disconnected everything from the DDT, take great care of the brake lines, and eased it out sideways, place the new DDT in through the same route and then use the build manual to give you the logic for the reconnections and of course the torques. Took me 1/2 a day but it's not a complex task. Paul M

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/lighting/bulbs.php

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/lighting/bulbs.php

Giles I don't think there is a kit that matches exactly, I made my own up - there aren't many to source. To make it easy you could open the VWP website and build an order for the bulbs as you check them. Paul M

You will need a new "VVC" engine mount to lift the plenum slightly and on my 2000 Roadsport chassis turn the diaginal crossmember through 180 deg so that the "bath" gives a little more clearance. When I fitted one to my 1800K the top of the plenum was V close to the bonnet and I had the the top of it shaved by about 2-3mm to give a bit more clearance. I was tuning my engine at the time, I don't know what impact the plenum will have on a standard tune. Paul M