MikeMolloy

Sorry to mess up your sale thread, but could you possibly measure the PCD of the mounting holes for this part? Thanks!

Calling fellow Birdmen! I am considering removing the Nova reverse box in an attempt to reduce the transmission harshness for normal road driving. The idea is to fit a Bailey Morris 2 piece TRT prop, and some sort of electric reverse. I looked at the stuff advertised by KitCarDirect - a starter motor and a sprocket that sandwiches between the diff nose and the prop UJ. Looks to me like there isn't room to mount this in the Caterham chassis. Can anyone who has a 'bird with electric reverse let me know how/where it is fitted and what parts are used? Pictures would be very welcome. Thanks!

Sorry to contaminate your sale thread, but what does a "VX Challenge" roll bar look like? Is it the triangular type most latterly seen on the Supersprint limited edition? Thanks.

Mmm, it's 25 years since I worked on the 5AS, but the MEMS code is 2 bytes, transmitted at 125 HZ. All codes are valid apart from 0x0000, 0xFFFF and 0xF0F0.

Passive is Bit 2 of EEOPTSA. Can you bit twiddle that with Testbook (or whatever your software is)?

Is there a plonk button on this forum somewhere? So you can "plonk" someone and make all their posts invisible to you? If not, can we have one please? Thanks.

http://i66.tinypic.com/mtv2av.jpg

http://i64.tinypic.com/33bo8ja.jpg

http://i65.tinypic.com/2d1ilw.jpg

http://i63.tinypic.com/2mopico.jpg

http://i65.tinypic.com/dy97dd.jpg

A rare opportunity to acquire one of only 5 (according to "The Magnificent Seven") factory built cars. Originally built for the NEC Motor Show in October 2000, I bought it in 2003 and have owned it for the last 15 years. Unfortunately, retirement and the need for "downsizing" means it needs to go to a new home. Spec as follows: 2000MY Imperial S3 chassis, fitted with a fuel injected Honda CBR1100XX motorcycle engine. Power approx. 160bhp at 9500rpm, but revs to 11000! Nova Racing dry sump, with uprated Pace DS pump and large Pace oil tank. 6 speed sequential gearbox plus Nova Racing reverse box. ZF LSD with rare 3.14 ratio (so it doesn't sit on the limiter all the way down the Hangar Straight), rebuilt by Road & Race Transmissions. Caterham/AP 4-pot brakes, vented discs and Pagid RS14 pads on the front. 13" Barnby mags (refurbished/crack tested by MB Engineering) with CR500s. Also KN Minators with AO21Rs as road tyres/wets. FIA bar (or Roadsport cage)/JPE aeroscreen/Tilletts/6 pt harness/Momo/Stack/Raceco Ttianium can/etc. Please note this is a track weapon, not a polisher's car, so the metallic black paintwork has plenty of battle scars. Mechanically it is in excellent shape. Buyer also gets first dibs on a BJ Minno trailer. Sold!

It's been a while, but if I recall correctly the CCT LED is the key to understanding the immobiliser status. With the ignition off and the vehicle immobilised, the LED should flash at 1 Hz. Press the unlock on the key fob and the LED should go off. Turn ignition ON and the LED should stay off. If it comes on and stays on constantly the system is still immobilised. Unfortunately "crank disable" is not implemented on the Caterham, so even if the system is immobilised the starter will still turn and the engine might fire for a couple of seconds, but the code will not have been sent to the MEMS so the engine will then die. Once again, if the LED is off, the immobiliser is unlocked and should have sent the correct signal to the MEMS. If this is the case I'd look for other potential issues.

Driveshaft is out and in the bench vice. I cleaned off all the gunk with brake cleaner, but under close inspection with a big magnifying glass you can still see the black goop seeping through the joint. Until I can find a proper solution (i.e. if it is possible to get a replacement can, and find a rebuild specialist) I have filled the lip of the can with JB weld. Admit I am ashamed at bodging it, but guess we'll see how long that lasts! Thanks for all the advice chaps.

Thanks for the info guys! Must admit I'm having trouble with the latest incarnation of the Blatchat search engine... Ian - sounds like you have good experience taking the CV cans apart. If you have photos of the innards I'd be very interested to see them! Will PM you with my email address. Richard - The can section is quite long before the boot clamp, and there was absolutely no evidence of the grease in that area. It was all stuffed in the De Dion ear - see photo. I think I might try sealing the can-to-hub interface with some sort of adhesive and see if that keeps it under control. Now, how do I achieve 200 lb ft????